My first day in Mongolia, checking out Ulaanbaatar had been a mixed experience. It was not a great city, but I had a good time checking it out, even if there wasn’t much that I liked. The second day I would break things up by taking a day tour into the countryside. This would be a great improvement.
I booked a day trip with a company called Nomadic Hospitality Mongolia to see Terelj National Park and the statue/museum of Chinggis Khan. I thought it would be a private trip but there was a French girl on the tour with me, which was a nice surprise actually. When I told her I was from Vancouver she lit up and said, “I love the X-Files!” A show that was almost entirely filmed there. I am a HUGE X-Files fan, so we had a lot of chat about.
Our driver / guide as a young woman (probably only the second time I have had a female guide or driver) called Kulan who was a terrific host. She answered all of my questions about Mongolia including about how people live in the remote parts, the economy, the government, and the local music.
Glorious Genghis
We drove first to the massive silver statue of Genghis Khan. It is a new monument, built in 2008, which is a bit weird. I always thing of giant monuments as something we don’t really do anymore, but I guess I was wrong. It was cool. The scale and the glittering silver against the blue skies were impressive.
Below it is a museum about Genghis Khan and his empire. Very well done and it amazing to look at the maps and see how far they got into Europe and Asia. In case you doubt or don’t know, here is the map of the Mongol Empire at its height in 1279.
Outside the museum were various fellows with camels and predatory birds if you want ride or have the birds perch on your shoulder for pictures. I did not but couldn’t resist a camel selfie.
A Ger-iffic Lunch Spot
We visited a local family to have lunch in their ger. Obviously this is a thing they do for tourists, but it was still very cool to be in their actual home and see how cozy it is and to walk around the fields surrounding it, interacting with cattle. Lunch – or at least the veg portion of it – was simple but tasty, with my favourite part being the aaruul, dried balls or fermented milk or yogurt from cows, goats, sheep, yaks, or camels. It was similar to those I have had in Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan (called qurt or various similar spellings).
Terelj Temples
From there we drove to Terelj National Park to see, first of all, a large rock that looks like a turtle. It does actually look turtle-like, though for that alone I don’t think it would be worth the drive. The setting, however, was wonderful. Green and dotted with wildflowers and just so sweeping and open. We got to appreciate more of it as we walked up a long path to a Buddhist temple on the mountain. The views were incredible and the temple was serene. Or at least it was until I mistakenly walked in the wrong direction around the room, causing some woman to abandon her spiritual reverie to harshly rebuke me in a manner that I found rather un-Buddhist.
Back in the Capital
We drove back to Ulaanbaatar. It was a great day. I think that is the thing about Mongolia; what there is that is really worth seeing is in the countryside; in the landscapes, both punishing and desolate and green and serene. But it is rather difficult to get around if you don’t drive. This gave me a nice taste, and I am glad I did not skip it.
After my return I ate another meal at the vegan restaurant I had eaten at the day prior (Agnista Vegan Restaurant) and paid a visit to the National Museum, which I liked.
My third day in Mongolia would be another day in Ulaanbaatar, and I am pleased to say that it grew on me as I found more about it to like.
