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Wandering North

Chronicling my travel adventures since 2007

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      • Kyrgyzstan
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Posted inAsia Mongolia-Kuwait-Bahrain trip 2025 South Korea

Hello Kitty to the Rescue: A Layover in Seoul

Posted on 28 July 25
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I don’t know why, but in the last few years my travel planning has become a little bit more chaotic. I used to book my trips many months in advance, and I would spend time refining the itineraries and learning phrases in the local language and getting organized. But more recently I find myself booking the trips with just a few weeks’ notice. I still make a good itinerary, but it all feels a little rushed. I don’t think I can conceive months in advance of actually being able to take time off work, but then something happens and I just need a holiday and then I book it without much planning. This was one of those trips.

I had decided that I needed to go somewhere, and I decided to go to Mongolia. But I didn’t just want to go to Mongolia, I wanted to try to visit a couple of other countries. And that’s what I tried to do on this trip. I decided to go to Mongolia and Kuwait and Bahrain. I’m aware that Mongolia is nowhere near Kuwait and Bahrain, but it made for an interesting itinerary. And it started with an overnight layover in Seoul South Korea.

This was my third or fourth time visiting Seoul, although each of those visits has been on some sort of long layover. I’ve never actually taken a trip just to see South Korea. I probably should, but this would be another layover visit.

I don’t love Seoul. I know that Seoul is very popular but, overall, I am not enamoured with it. It does make for a good layover though. I appreciate its excellent public transportation and its affordable accommodations, and that there’s lots going on day and night to fill your time.  As much as I don’t love it, I was happy to be back for my layover this time.

Arex: the fast train into the city. Of course it has a cute mascot.

I arrived at 4:00 PM and I would have to leave again at 9:00 in the morning, so I just had an evening. I booked myself into the Hostel Drip & Drop, which is conveniently located in Myeongdong and right by the Euljiro 1(il)-ga metro station. I took the AREX Express train (which is only slightly faster than the other train) into the city with my backpack and walked to the hostel and dropped it off.

Before I say anything else, I have to say how impressed I was with this hostel. I have fantasies of designing the perfect hostel because there are so many of them that just have design flaws, like having no lighting options between pitch black and blinding white or showers in shared bathrooms with no place to take off your clothes or hang them up outside of the soaking wet shower. This hostel was close to perfect.

It had an immaculate sleeping quarter. I opted for the girls’ dorm and it was one of those ones where every bed is a pod with a proper curtain, a shelf, lighting, and a comfy mattress inside. For the first time ever, I had a little bunk with a window in it. This hostel also had an adjoining room where there were lockers to put your backpack and your shoes, so you would take off your shoes and get your pyjamas, or do whatever you needed to do, and then you could either go into the room with the beds or into the shared bathroom. What this meant was there was no possibility of anybody in the sleeping room rummaging around in their bags, or getting dressed, or crinkling plastic bags because all of that happened in another room. I’m sorry if you’re not here to hear about effective hostile design, but I was very excited by this. And it was $56 Canadian per night. Not exactly dirt cheap, but pretty close.

Drip & Drop Hostel

I don’t know why it’s called Drip & Drop except that it has something to do with coffee and they do provide you with a coffee pour-over situation and they had a pour-over station in the common area. I mean, that’s pretty great. The downsides were no kitchen, and the common area was very sterile and didn’t really invite one to hang around, but that’s OK; I wasn’t there for long. I would 1000% stay there again. 

Once I was finished admiring my hostel, I set out into the city. I decided to wander along the Cheonggyecheon, which is sort of a man-made urban river that runs through the city lined with pedestrian and bike friendly spaces with benches and sculptures. It’s a really wonderful use of public space and provides some serenity into what a busy city is otherwise.

The Cheonggyecheon

I meandered around taking exploring the streets. There appeared to be some sort of festival happening geared towards children and there were a lot of inflatable things and children’s activities. I have no idea what was going on but it did make for some fun photos. It was blisteringly hot in Seoul, so, to cool off, I lingered by the fans set up outside next to some inflatable children’s water park set up for the event, until I realized that a single adult lingering near strange children is creepy.

Seoul sights

I wanted to visit a cigar lounge before it got too late (and I needed an escape from the weather) and so I went to the Resolver Cigar Lounge. It was walking distance from my hostel in a commercial building. The lounge was a little bit difficult to find and I nearly gave up and left but finally I found it and it was worth the effort as it was a beautiful lounge. Dimly lit with comfortable leather chairs, excellent cigar accessories, and a sophisticated atmosphere. I visited the humidor and picked out a Plasencia Alma Fuerte – a cigar made at the Plasencia factory I had previously visited in Nicaragua. They had a decent selection of Cubans and some non-Cubans but the prices were very high, and this was the cigar that I decided best fit my budget and palate. The only downside of the lounge, if there was one, was that it was very quiet. There were a couple of other groups of men smoking cigars, but it didn’t have a very social atmosphere. I’ve noticed this a lot with cigar lounges in East Asia which is that people don’t really seem that inclined to talk to each other. Everyone seems to kind of keep to themselves.

Resolver Cigar Lounge

By the time I left the lounge it was dark, but that did nothing to reduce the heat and humidity. Sweating profusely, I walked back to the area near my hostel to visit the Myeongdong Night Market.  I was delighted to have a night market to go to. At first, it was terrific to walk around the area with the market. The neon signs were twinkling, throngs of people were out gawking at the stalls and eating things on sticks and there was food and merchandise for sale throughout the streets. It was a fun atmosphere. Except now not only was it hot, but it was hot and I was walking past stalls frying up food and producing clouds of hot greasy air.

Night Market Fever

I quickly became very uncomfortable. I also desperately wanted to eat something but, as is always the problem with night markets in Asia in my experience, it’s very difficult to find anything vegetarian; plus, I had forgotten to get cash from the ATM. After a while I just needed some air conditioning and relief from the weather and that’s when I saw it, like a beacon calling to me. My savior. Hello Kitty.

I love Hello Kitty and I’ve been wanting to go to a themed cafe forever. And there it was: a two-story Hello Kitty café, open late and artificially ice cold.  While I was thankful for the air conditioning, I will say that the interior of the Hello Kitty cafe was so brightly lit that I felt like I was in some sort of alien spacecraft, but I was happy for it. I bought two food items that I’ve never had before and will certainly never have again which was a dragon fruit iced tea and a mango cake that was shaped like an actual mango inside a hard shell. It was delicious; or maybe I was just hot and famished. I sat by the window by myself, my eyes ringed in smudgy black eyeliner; I was looking goth-adjacent smelling of cigar smoke and thoroughly enjoying my Hello Kitty meal.

Hellooo, Kitty!

After that, I took one last spin around the market and then went back to my hostel for a shower and asleep. In a few short hours I would be up again and heading back to the airport to fly to my next destination: Ulaanbaatar.

Temple at sunrise. Headed back to the airport

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Tags: Asia cigar cigars Hostel layover market SE Asia solo travel transportation Travel travel blog
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Posted inBahrain Mongolia-Kuwait-Bahrain trip 2025

Bahrain, Briefly

I left Kuwait at about 7:00 AM and took a short one-hour flight to Manama, Bahrain. Kuwait and Bahrain are perfect to pair together because they are both tiny and don’t have a whole lot to see. It was perfect for me because I was able to visit three new countries on this odd round-the-world trip.

Bahrain has never really been on my radar as a travel destination, but I was curious to check it out. Flying into the country was impressive. Descending over the gulf with its many blue-hued waters, it looked gorgeous. I did need a visa to visit, and I had applied for it about a week in advance. It wasn’t complicated—just a simple e-visa, and there were no hassles at the border.

Arrival In Bahrain

A few facts about Bahrain: it is the third-smallest country in Asia (after Singapore and the Maldives) and is a constitutional monarchy. It is a small island in the Persian Gulf just off the coast of Saudi Arabia and near the coast of the United Arab Emirates. It has a population of just over 1.5 million, of which only about half are local Bahraini nationals and the other half are immigrants or expats. It has gas and oil so it is rich, but it is not as ostentatious as the UAE. It is famous for pearl diving—I mean, locally famous, or famous in the pearl community. I didn’t know anything about their pearl industry prior to arriving.

flag of Bahrain

Prior to arriving, I had been uncertain of how to pronounce the name of the capital city. I was pronouncing it MAnama like Panama and was singing the Van Halen song with the name swapped out, much to the irritation of my friends. As it turns out, the name is pronounced with the accent on the second syllable – MaNAma -so it sounds like the first three syllables of that Sesame Street sketch with the singing cows (MaNAma-na, doo doo doo doo doo).

I landed and took a taxi to my hotel. It was just after 8:00 AM, and while I had hoped that maybe I would be able to get an early check-in given my pitifully tired appearance, it wasn’t possible. So, I left my bag and went out to explore. I found picking a hotel to be a bit challenging. Manama is very spread out and seems to have a few different centres. I picked the Le Méridien City Centre Bahrain, which wasn’t exactly cheap and also wasn’t that central. It was near some commercial areas, but nothing that I found particularly appealing. However, the hotel itself was nice, quite comfortable, and close enough to everything by car.

Like Kuwait, Manama is not a walking city. When you get to a particular neighbourhood it is fine to walk around, but any long distances are best covered in a car. If you try to walk, you will end up walking on the side of a freeway. Instead, I Ubered between the different districts.

My first stop was Qal’at al-Bahrain, or the Bahrain Fort, which is the oldest fort in the region, having been occupied from about 2300 BC up to the 18th century. There is a small museum, and then you wander around the fort outside, which I did. This is when I truly appreciated that not only was Bahrain as hot as Kuwait, but it was also humid. It was unpleasant weather for outdoor meanders. Still, I walked around the fort, and when I was finished, I went back into the museum cafe and promptly ordered several beverages to try to cool down.

museum and cafe

While I was there, sweating profusely from my face, I had a conversation with a fellow who had just finished his morning jog and was having a green juice. He was from the UK but was living in Bahrain for work and had been there for just over a year. He said it was a pretty nice place to live, but expensive and a little bit boring. The cafe at that museum is very nice, and being right along the water, I kind of felt some Miami vibes.

view from the museum cafe

From the fort and museum, I took an Uber to Bab Al Bahrain, an attractive old customs house that had a nice mosque nearby and stood at the entrance to the Manama souq. I walked through the souq and looked at the offerings. It was livelier than the one I had just visited in Kuwait, but it wasn’t as interesting as others I have visited in different countries. It felt a little more polished and commercial. The streets around the souq were maybe a little more interesting, selling herbs, remedies, and local clothes.

Manama Souq

streets around the souq

I happened upon a stunning mosque with the sort of blue tiles that you normally associate with Iran or Uzbekistan. It was the Matam Ajam Al-Kabeer mosque, located near the souq and built in 1881. It wasn’t open to visitors at that time of day, but the outside was impressive.

Matam Ajam Al-Kabeer

I wandered around a little bit more, seeing what there was to see, before the heat started to get to me. I ducked into a supermarket to wander around and pretend to look at things while I just enjoyed the air conditioning. Eventually, I called an Uber and decided to check out a museum.

The Bahrain National Museum was only about an hour’s walk away, but I wasn’t about to do that in the temperatures I was enduring. The museum looked very impressive from the outside. It was in a big, new building, and I was excited to see what was inside. I usually enjoy museums; they offer an opportunity to learn about a country and see some beautiful things, and I typically enjoy all of them. This was a rare exception. I thought this museum was dull. There was almost nothing in it—just big, empty spaces with little to look at. There were some skulls and objects from ancient history, but not that many. Many exhibits were horrible displays of mannequins dressed up in local clothes, engaging in activities of daily life from history. It reminded me a little bit of when Taylor set up the Stars Hollow museum on Gilmore Girls. Even the cafe and the little shop were lackluster. Maybe I was there when they were reorganizing or something? Maybe I wasn’t in a museum mood? I felt bad for breezing through it so quickly, but it wasn’t for me. Plus, I was only in Bahrain for a day, and I wasn’t going to waste my time lingering over anything I found dull.

National Museum

Back outside, I called another Uber and decided to head to Muharraq. It is technically its own city and was the original capital of Bahrain, but now it feels more like a neighbourhood of Manama, located just across a bridge on a separate island. I went there because it was meant to be a historical and charming neighbourhood. And it is a charming, historical neighbourhood; however, when I was there, the main streets with the charming historical buildings were all torn up and under construction, so it wasn’t exactly the nice wander I thought it would be. However, there were some murals and side streets with art. There were mosques to appreciate and cafes to visit. It was pleasant.

Muharraq

There are a good number of cigar lounges in Manama, but I didn’t have time to visit more than one. I had landed in the morning, and I was flying out in the evening. So, I visited The Burlington Club, which is a bar and cigar lounge at the Ritz-Carlton hotel. I felt a little bit underdressed as I walked in. I was wearing the same black abaya that I had been wearing in Kuwait, but my shoes were dusty, my face was sweaty, and my hair was a bit disheveled. I tried to fix myself up during the taxi ride over, but I’m not sure what good it did. Nevertheless, as I entered the way-out-of-my-price-range hotel and the cigar lounge, I was greeted warmly. I sat in the lounge, which was cool and quiet, and enjoyed a San Luis Rey robusto with a carrot and vegetable juice drink. I hadn’t really eaten much all day, having mostly just drank juices. I wasn’t feeling sick anymore, but after my bout of food poisoning in Kuwait, I didn’t want to chance it. I enjoyed my rest in the lounge and then headed back to my hotel in the evening.

The Burlington Club

My flight was in the middle of the night. In some ways, I even wondered if it had been worthwhile getting a hotel, given that it was now evening, I hadn’t even set foot in my room yet, and I would be leaving in just a few hours. But after the hectic schedule of this journey, even just having a few hours to take a shower and get a short sleep before going back to the airport was entirely worth it.

I felt pretty satisfied with my day in Bahrain. I can say that there were no other tourist sites left that I wanted to see; however, I could have done with a second day there just to be a little more relaxed and to check out a few more areas. Manama does pop up on some itineraries as a long layover place, so maybe I’ll get the opportunity again. And that was it for me for new countries on this trip. However, I would have a 30-hour layover in Italy on my way home.

Next stop: Milan.

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Read More about Bahrain, Briefly
Posted on 3 August 25
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Posted inKuwait Mongolia-Kuwait-Bahrain trip 2025

Kuwait: Quick and Quiet

I had wrapped up my time in Mongolia and flew to the next country on this trip, which was Kuwait. You may be thinking what I was when I came up with this preposterous itinerary, which is, “Kuwait is nowhere near Ulaanbaatar.” And you would be right. After deciding to visit Mongolia, I wanted to visit another country that I had not been to before, but there wasn’t much around Mongolia, so I looked West and decided it was time to time to hit up a couple of Gulf microstates. Next stop Kuwait.

Almost every blog or social media post I see from people who have been everywhere and feel the need to rank countries, ranks Kuwait near the bottom. Boring is the consensus. No problem.  I didn’t plan to spend much time there and, in my experience, everywhere is interesting for a day or two. I would be in Kuwait for about 36 hours.

I landed in the middle of the night and took a taxi to my hotel, the ibis Sharq (so called because it is in the Sharq district). Uninspired, but it was cheaper than a lot of options. I have no idea if there is a better area to stay in Kuwait City; something walkable and affordable.  I feel like it does not exist, but I am open to suggestions. The ibis was fine.  I slept for a few hours and headed out.  I wanted to get an early start because I was there only a short time and I knew the afternoon would be hot.

I wasn’t sure what to wear in Kuwait. I heard mixed things about how covered up and conservative I should be, so erring on the side of caution, I wore a light black abaya and matching headscarf with some black beading at the hems and underneath I had leggings and a t-shirt.  I don’t know that it was necessary to be so conservative, but I think I would have felt conspicuous walking around without it. But the thing was, it was very hot. It was at least 45°C and I think at one point it went up to 48. It was not pleasant for walking. Throughout the day, I kept tucking into air-conditioned establishments or sitting on the sidewalk in the shade and drinking lots of water trying to get my temperature down. It was intense.

My main stop, and I think every tourist’s main stop in Kuwait City, was the Kuwait Towers. Three retro futuristic spike-like towers built in the 1970s. Two of them pierce blue spheres. One sphere is a water tank, one is a café, and one is divided in its lower half as a water tank and its upper half is a restaurant. I did not pay the money to go inside and I don’t regret it. But they were cool to see in person. They are blue and white but at night they are lit up in different colours.  I was able to walk there from my hotel and took a bit of a stroll along the bay, again until the heat overtook me.

Kuwait Towers

Thankfully they have Uber in Kuwait, and I called a car and asked it to take me to another area of town so I could visit a big mosque and the souk area.

A couple of problems with Kuwait: One problem is that it is a car culture. It’s not designed for walking, so the streets don’t have much life them. The distances are long and there’s not a lot of things to engage with along the way. Also, it’s hot, so walking isn’t great to begin with. The other problem was that I was there on a Saturday; a Saturday being sort of like the equivalent of a Sunday in a Christian nation and pretty much everything was closed. So a city that wasn’t super exciting to begin with felt even more quiet. The business district was a ghost town.

I did wander over to the souk and that was a little bit interesting although most of the shops were closed. Fortunately, some of the cafes  were not, and I found a café (Dalalwa Café) with lots of outdoor air conditioners and men lounging outside, drinking tea and smoking shisha in crisp white thawbs (locally called dishdashahs). I joined them and drank tea and smoked a cigar. They refused to take my money.  I attracted a lot of curious looks, but they were polite and no one was no one made me feel unwelcome. (I’m not sure if the looks were due to my gender, the cigar, or the face that my face was so red and sweaty.)

The mosque I wanted to visit wasn’t open. All I could do was walk around the outside. I walked around some streets and took in more of the atmosphere, such as it was. I tried to visit the museum, but it was closed, as was the aquarium. There really aren’t a lot of designated tourist attractions in Kuwait.

What Kuwait lacked in museums, it made up for in cigar lounges. I was able to visit two. Both were in commercial buildings: one, simply called No.21 high up in The No2 of the two Pearl Towers; a bit difficult to find, but worth it. (UPDATE: since I was there it has relocated to the 4th floor of the Four Seasons Hotel Kuwait at Burj Alshaya.  The other, the Cabinet Club on the second floor of Salhiya Mall. They were nice lounges. Very well appointed and with excellent selections of cigars. Not cheap. Nothing in Kuwait is.

No.21 Cigar Lounge

Cabinet Club

I enjoyed the respite from the heat, and I was able to chat with the employees of the two lounges. It wasn’t easy to engage with people in Kuwait because there weren’t a lot of them around but the people working in the lounges were all from other countries and spoke English and were happy to chat for a bit. I was the only woman in the two lounges. The others there were men, again dressed in gleaming white dishdashahs with designer sunglasses and perfectly groomed facial hair. They looked very fancy. I felt bedraggled by comparison.

At some point in the day, I started to feel a bit unwell. I wasn’t sure if it was heat stroke or if it was the subtle food poisoning that I had been experiencing yesterday at the Istanbul airport, but my stomach just wasn’t right. I went back to my hotel to have a bit of a rest before dinner. Because I had some big dinner plans.

The most interesting thing about going to Kuwait was that I was having dinner with someone that I have been working with for over 10 years but had never met. If you don’t know, I’m a lawyer. In 2015 we took on a case involving members of the Kuwaiti royal family and their deceased father who had invested in some properties in British Columbia Canada. Several of the children ended up suing each other including in British Columbia and we became lawyers for one of them. (I’m able to write about this this because there are several reported decisions in the Supreme Court British Columbia, so all of this is public information.) At the time of writing, the case is ongoing. Anyway, I had never met our client, the Sheikha, and I was excited to have dinner with her and her daughter. A Sheikha is effectively the equivalent of a Princess. She and her daughter selected the restaurant and picked me up at my hotel in a black window tinted SUV. And we went to a restaurant called Dar Hamad in Salmiya, which is its own city, but really seems like part of Kuwait City.

Dar Hamad

Again, to be respectful I was wearing my abaya with my headscarf loosely draped over my shoulders. The Sheikha was also wearing a black abaya with her hair covered but the daughter was wearing a more western style outfit, although still quite modest. The restaurant we went to was gorgeous. Beautifully designed and fancy. We had a table that looked like it was meant to seat ten but it was just for us. I didn’t understand why we had such a large table until they started bringing out all the dishes. The Sheikha had ordered a feast. Not a veritable feast but an actual feast of different things for me to try. She knew ahead of time that I was a vegetarian so most of the dishes were designed to be vegetarian.

some of the dishes i was too sick to enjoy

This would have been heaven, except that by the time I went to the dinner I was feeling extremely unwell. I had been suffering from terrible bouts of nausea and feeling like I was going to throw up. I hadn’t eaten anything all day, but I was worried that I wouldn’t be able to keep anything down. I politely told them that I wasn’t feeling that well but that I was excited to try all the food. And I did have the smallest nibbles of all of the different dishes but every time I did, I felt really ill. On two occasions during the meal I urgently had to leave the table and I went to the bathroom to violently vomit. This was not the first impression that I wanted to be making, but it was a very enjoyable dinner and I felt very privileged to be able to experience it.

They drove me back to my hotel and I went to bed. I had a flight early the next morning.

Apart from my dinner with the Sheikha and the cigar lounges, I didn’t love Kuwait. It wasn’t the most interesting of places, however, I think being there on a weekend was a bad decision. For that reason I would like to go back and get a better sense of what the country has to offer.  So while it’s not high on my list of countries that I’ve visited, I’m not sure I gave it a fair shot. But that was my visit and my next flight would take me to another new country of similar size, Bahrain.

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Read More about Kuwait: Quick and Quiet
Posted on 2 August 25
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Posted inMongolia Mongolia-Kuwait-Bahrain trip 2025

Ulaanbaatar redeems itself

On that third day in Ulaanbaatar, I woke up in a good mood.  I had so enjoyed my tour the day before and, despite not loving Ulaanbaatar on my first day, I was excited to see more of it.  I devised a loose walking plan through the city, with plans to meet someone for a cigar in the evening. 

I walked from my hotel (the Hotel Nine by the main square) to Gandantegchinlen Monastery.  It was a pleasant, if unremarkable, walk.  I did make one blunder, though: I walked by but did not visit the newly constructed Chinggis Khan Museum.  I felt like I had done enough of that the day before, and I didn’t think I had enough time, so I skipped it.  Everyone I have talked to since has told me it was a mistake and that the museum is incredible.  I should have at least popped in.  Next time. 

I arrived at Gandantegchinlen Monastery and discovered my favourite place in the city.  It is a complex of Buddhist temples, and I’ve seen lots of Buddhist temples, but there was something about the way they were laid out and the openness of the space.  There was also this low, deep chanting and the occasional soft sound of a gong that permeated the space and made it feel so serene.  I felt it kind of deeply.  I think it was mostly the chanting.  I think, with the right music, I could be tricked into joining a cult. 

Gandantegchinlen Monastery

From there, I walked to a café/tea house called Potala.  I read about it on a blog or in a book because I would never have discovered it otherwise.  It is on the 11th floor of an office tower called Gem Palace.  Weird.  But it is a lovely café, decorated in a Buddhist-temple style, with lots of places to sit comfortably and look at the view.  They had food (including vegetarian dishes), but I wasn’t peckish.  I did try one of their specialty drinks, “Potala Coffee.” which was strong coffee with shar tos (Mongolian clarified sheep or cow butter).  It wasn’t terrible, but I think I’ll stick with black coffee.  Great café, though.  They even had Wi-Fi and lots of outlets; it would be a great place to work on a laptop. 

Potala Coffee

After that, I wandered around more and made my way to a restaurant at the Corporate Hotel.  There isn’t anything too special about the hotel, but it has a restaurant with a big, covered patio and comfortable seating.  I had a veggie curry and a cigar (Juan Lopez No. 2) and decided it was time to try Mongolia’s vodka.  I opted for the Chinggis Gold Vodka, which was the best they had on the menu.  The menu said it would be just an ounce, but the waitress brought out the bottle, and I swear she poured me half a glass of vodka.  Look at the photo; that’s not water.  (It tasted like…vodka.) 

Rested and feeling good, I walked south to the Bogd Khan Winter Palace.  Bogd Khan was the leader of Mongolia from 1870 to 1924, and this was one of his residences.  It was not a great walk there, but I did find this excellent Soviet-style mosaic on the way. 

The palace had small, modest interiors and a little bit of a museum, but the palace itself was the real draw, with its decorations and murals. 

Bogd Khan Winter Palace

I didn’t feel like repeating the long walk back to the centre of town, so I hopped on a bus heading in the right direction, and it got me where I wanted to go.  I meandered around town for a little longer and then took a taxi to a cigar lounge to meet a stranger. 

When I had posted on Facebook that I was flying to Ulaanbaatar, a cigar friend of mine from Vancouver who now lives in Hong Kong messaged me to say that his neighbour, who is also a cigar smoker, was in Ulaanbaatar for a year for work.  I’ll call him Pemberton.  My buddy connected us, and Pemberton and I arranged to meet at a cigar store and lounge called Habanos Cigar Lounge. 

a nice lounge in an uninspiring setting

I greatly appreciated that there was a lounge in Ulaanbaatar, but the selection of cigars for sale was only so-so.  I bought a Bolivar Belicoso Finos and a Partagas Serie D No. 4 from a disinterested salesperson and settled into the lounge.  The inside was actually pretty nice, but, when Pemberton arrived, we sat outside on the patio.  It was nice. 

Habanos Cigar Lounge

We chatted, and I got to hear what it was like to live and work in Ulaanbaatar.  Dismal was my takeaway.  Pemberton was from the Netherlands but had moved to Hong Kong long ago and worked for a beverage company.  His posting in Ulaanbaatar was for about a year, during which he worked with the government to set up manufacturing and distribution in Mongolia.  Similar to the stories I had heard from others, doing any work with the government was slow, inefficient, and a bit corrupt.  Pemberton found living in Ulaanbaatar depressing and unpleasant.  I can see that. 

We parted ways well after dark, and I walked back to my hotel.  Ulaanbaatar may not have a lot going for it, but it did feel very safe.  The next morning, I got up early and took a private transfer to the airport (hoping not to take the bus this time).  The sky was beautiful. 

I enjoyed my three days in Mongolia, even if I was only lukewarm on Ulaanbaatar.  If I were to return, though (and I wouldn’t rule it out), I would take the train to some other locations in Mongolia and try to spend more time in nature. 

But I was on to my next destination from Mongolia, which was, illogically, Kuwait. 

some murals and a random Beatles monument in Ulaanbaatar

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Posted on 30 July 25
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About Wandering North

Welcome to Wandering North, where I have been blogging about my travels since 2007.

Dale Raven North

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  • Bahrain, Briefly 3 August 25
  • Kuwait: Quick and Quiet 2 August 25
  • Ulaanbaatar redeems itself 30 July 25
  • Ulaanbaatar to the Unknown: A Mongolian Day Trip 29 July 25
  • First impressions of Ulaanbaatar 28 July 25

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