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Asia Indonesia Indonesia Trip 2017

The Descent: Goa Jamblang

Yesterday i hired a car to take me from my hotel in Yogyakarta to Goa Jamblang, a cave about a two hour drive from the city. The cave wasn’t listed in my guide book (that’s a failure of Lonely Planet, in my opinion, but once it is listed it is sure to get a lot busier) but i had seen pictures of a magical cave on the internet and that was good enough for me.

The ticket was 450,000 rupiah, which was more than reasonable, and but they only allow 25-35 people in per day, so it is important to get there early. I was #5.

We were walked over to the entrance to the cave: a large hole in the ground created by a sink hole, with perfectly vertical sides descending about 60 meters (200 feet ish) to a verdant bottom.

Our way down? Being lowered on ropes held by a group of slight men in flip flops.

Not exactly comfort inducing, but i figured it was safe, or at least no more dangerous than some of my previous travel exploits. They outfitted each of us in helmets and well worn harnesses.

I was a bit nervous but happy that i wasn’t going first. “Number 5!” They called out. “Huh, i guess we aren’t going numerically”‘ i thought. I made my way to the edge of the cliff and they clipped my harness to a single, knotted rope. Stepping off the edge took a moment of courage but once i was free and not plummeting to the ground, it was wonderful and exhilarating. I was slowly lowered to the ground taking in the greenery and the height.

Once everyone was at the bottom we made our way into the cave, which was dark and slippery but only a short walk to a grand opening filled with light from a natural opening above.

The sun, filtered through the leaves high above, made for a cascade of beams of light that was either heavenly, magical, or simply amazing, depending on your world view.

Far below us still was another drop off and water flowing. Water dripped from above making for other worldly rock formations.

It was all just incredible. I felt like an adventurer, an explorer, and, at times, a character at the beginning of a horror movie.

We spent about an hour or two down there and then we were lifted back to the surface. This next photo is me being lifted and looking down from part way up. The red things below are the helmets of the others.

We all shared a lunch (included in the price), united in our conquering of the cave. And that was that. Done by 1pm, satisfied and exhausted and muddy, i went back to the hotel and spent the rest of the day just hanging out at various cafés and enjoying a cigar with my curry.

I highly recommend this experience and suspect it may be the best thing about this trip.

Asia Indonesia Indonesia Trip 2017

A Day in Yogyakarta

The day before yesterday, after a slow breakfast and morning cigar on my hotel’s balcony (which i only discovered after 2 days), i went to the Kraton – the sultan’s former palace. I had walked there the other day so i knew it was only about a 30 minute walk from my hotel but i really wanted to try out the local transport: the ojek. Basically it is a rickshaw but powered by a motorbike instead of a bicycle. Unlike a tuk tuk in that you sit at the front, out in the open. It is a great way to see the city and the breeze is marvelous but you are sitting at the front of a motorized vehicle. No helmet. No seat belt. It’s like riding around on the front bumper of a car, except you ARE the bumper. It was great.

The Kraton was nice. It was pleasant to stroll around the grounds and see some of the buildings, but the museum displays of the sultan’s suits and epaulets weren’t very interesting. The best parts though were the men in traditional dress displaying Indonesian puppets and a concert of serene percussion-based music.

From the Kraton i took a bicycle rickshaw to the Water Palace, which was small but pretty and i got to see batik and puppets being made.

From there i wandering around a lovely neighbourhood of narrow streets, small houses, and flowering vines. One thing that is odd about most of the narrow streets is that they are frequently hung with bird cages with a small song bird or two in each. It makes for a lot of lovely birdsong, but seems like a sad life for the birds.

I visited an underground mosque and then, tired and sweaty, found myself at a pleasant cafe where i decided it was time to try the kopi luwak: the famous civet excrement coffee.

The coffee here is excellent – luwak aside – but i couldn’t pass up an opportunity to try the world’s most expensive coffee. They prepared me two cups, one with an Italian stovetop maker and one with a Vietnamese maker. Both cups were excellent, but was it really $12 Cdn good? I’m glad i tried it and it was good but at that price once is probably enough.

I did have a relaxing time chatting with the proprietor and watching his pet civet, which spent its time napping and being extraordinarily fat.

Next i decided to go looking for the bird market. I thought i had a handle on it and people kept telling me i was heading in the right direction, but hours passed and i couldn’t find it. I however see a lot of hardware and automotive repair shops. At one point, to escape the heat, i took refuge in a supermarket, enjoying the AC and their selection of sugary cereals. After walking a bit more i broke down and took an ojek back to my hotel.

I didn’t do too much after that…walking, smoking, reading…i think i was asleep by 8:00.

(More super cool street art seen on my walks…)

Asia Indonesia Indonesia Trip 2017

The Chicken Church on Java

I had booked a driver to take me to Borobudur and Prambanan, but the night before i found on a random 2010 blog post info about a church shaped like a giant chicken in the jungle, not far from Yogyakarta. The story is that in 2009 a guy in Jakarta had a vision from god, who told him to go to the forest and build a non-denominational church shaped like a giant dove. He did, but it ended up looking like a giant chicken, which is why it is commonly known as the chicken church. (It is formally known as either Gereja Ayam or Bukit Rhema.) Obviously i had to go. Why had i not heard about this? Why wasn’t it in the Lonely Planet? Why isn’t everyone talking about this?

I didn’t have any luck communicating my desire to my driver due to our insurmountable language barrier, so i drew a picture, which he understood, i think you’ll agree it is spot on.

We drove through some lovely rural areas, past some pretty little houses, past people working in the fields, to the bottom of a steep hill. And at the top, surrounded by lush green forest, was the structure. It did not disappoint.

Apparently it was unfinished and abandoned for several years, but is now a legit attraction. The inside of the head and neck is painted with cartoony pictures warning of ever day sins like sex and smoking and drugs.

Under it is a small network of carved tunnels and private prayer rooms. And best of all, you can climb stairs to look out of the bird’s beak and then up to a platform atop the crown on its head for some terrific views.

Amazing. Most people i spoke to either didn’t know about it or said it wasn’t worth visiting. Oh how wrong they were.

Asia Indonesia Indonesia Trip 2017

Borobudur & Prambanan

So the main reason i came to Indonesia (aside from a cheap flight) was a book i bought in high school which was a coffee table book called The Atlas of Dream Places and over time, when i need travel inspiration, i pick places out of the book. That’s how i ended up going to Samarkand, for example. Borobudur is in the book. It is the world’s largest Buddhist temple, built in the 9th C and in the shape of a giant mandala from the air. It overlooks an expanse of jungle with volcanoes in the distance.

The thing to do if you are keen or crazy is to go there for the sunrise. I awoke at 3am, was picked up at 4am, and arrived at Borobudur in the dark, climbing the stairs to the top. The cool thing about arriving that early is that there is hardly anyone there and those that there are are focused on the east side of the temple so you can basically have the rest of it to yourself. Perfect for endless photographic variations on the 72 or so bell-shaped stupas atop the temple (each containing a stone Buddha). There is nothing inside (it’s built on a hill) but the outside is covered with intricate carvings which i could speak about had i hired a guide, but i didn’t. What i did do was take 1,000 pictures.

I met a couple of nice girls (German & Dutch) each traveling solo and we hung out taking pictures of each other and chatting. We had coffee afterwards and talked about travel and boys. I appreciated having the company. I had hired a driver for the morning but he didn’t speak English. We (the girls and i) had a good time climbing around the temple and mocking the mockable. Chiefly amongst those who caught our attention was a couple (attractive, early middle aged…looked like they could be in a Cialis commercial) who repeatedly set up their camera to video them walking slowly, holding hands between the stupas, exchanging a loving eye lock. They did this multiple times. I realize the irony of my mocking them for this when i took, like 25 failed selfies, but the manufacture of the romantic moment was hilarious. Plus, who were they going to show this video to? Anyway (irony again noted) here are a few of my better images…

After Borobudur i visited the chicken church, but i really feel like that merits its own post, which you can read about here: https://www.wanderingnorth.ca/the-chicken-church-on-java/

After the chicken church detour i went to Prambanan, a 9th C Hindo temple also on the outskirts of the city. It looks a lot like Angkor Wat in Cambodia. There were a group of very similar looking temples, each of which was accessible by steep stairs and housing a deity statue. It was beautiful, but also very crowded, mostly with groups of young local people who kept asking for photos.

Although in the middle of a lovely park, the temples themselves were away from all vegetation so it was extremely hot. I wandered around until i needed a respite and then went for an excellent coffee in the park and looked at some of the animals in cages, including this sinister bird who i assume was behind bars for a reason.

It was an excellent day. I returned to the city in the early afternoon, exhausted, snd spent the evening reading, smoking, and walking aimlessly until bed.

Asia Indonesia Indonesia Trip 2017

Arrival in Yogyakarta

I arrived in Yogyakarta from Jakarta by plane. A train is possible, but i am somewhat short on time. The taxi from the airport revealed a bigger city than i was expecting but with the usual billboards and shops. They really do have all the worst stuff from the United States here, however, i suppose if you happen to be in Indonesia and have a hankering for KFC with cheese dipping sauce, a cronut, or a hot dog from the Circle K, you’re in luck. My favourite of the ads i saw on that drive was a billboard advertising a children’s Halloween party which promised “magic show” “games” and…”baby shark dance”. Huh? I have not been able to stop thinking about what a baby shark dance entails and every possibility is unsettling.

Anyway, i’m staying at the Malam 1001 Hotel (1001 nights) on a narrow alley near the end of Malioboro Street (a main thoroughfare of shops, food vendors, ojek [moto rickshaw], and bekak [bicycle rickshaw] drivers). My hotel has a nice leafy courtyard and i have a private room, so i’m quite comfortable though i haven’t seen another guest.

The first day i just had the afternoon and the main sites in town were closed early so i just went for a walk to get my bearings.

The area around my hotel has lots of restaurants and tour operators, gift shops and more batik shops than any any country could possibly support. Seriously, who is buying all this batik clothing and fabric? I don’t see people wearing it and i can’t imagine every tourist stocking up on enough batik tunics and dress shirts to keep these places in business. Plus, as far as i can tell, most of it isn’t real batik anyway…fauxtik. (That term should totally catch on.) the good news is i haven’t seen anything i would like to buy.

I walked, politely declining offers of rickshaw rides and thanking people for compliments on my tattoos, eyeing the street side food stalls and trying to determine if there is any vegetarian food.

I sat under a tree and watched people setting up for a carnival/night market which is to open later in the week. Chatted with a taxi driver. Smoked cigarillos.

Walked back to the hotel, stopped to check out a supermarket called “Hero” (Super Hero Market?). I’m always fascinated by foreign supermarkets and have been ever since i saw a box of Rice Krispies in a market in Israel on which Snap, Crackle, and Pop were muscular superheroes…though i have come to question that memory over time. Bought a fresh guava juice and gawked at people lined up for a block for a coffee/doughnut/burger joint.

Also, i checked out some of the street art in the narrow streets around my hotel, which ranged from cute to political, and watched children playing with chickens.

There seems to be quite a lot of public art here. Much of it i spotted from the taxi on the ride from the airport but happened on a few statues as i walked around.

Dinner of super spicy green beans with rice at a pleasant restaurant. $3.00 cdn including iced tea. A cigar in the courtyard. Bed. A fairly uneventful day, but a perfectly pleasant one. Plus i had a 4am pick up scheduled for the next morning for one of the highlights of the trip…Borobudur. (Separate post.)

Asia Indonesia Indonesia Trip 2017

Jakarta

Indonesia.

I arrived in Jakarta from Taipei. A 5ish hour flight. Hit with heat and humidity. Glorious. Caught a taxi to Kota aka Old Batavia aka the old city. It seemed like the most interesting area, with now shabby colonial architecture, canals, and a big square. The city is large and populous; 10+ million people. I am only here for a day and a half and i didn’t have any particular sites or activities in mind. Much of what i read about Jakarta said “skip it”, but how could i? I’m glad i didn’t.

My driver got lost trying to find my hostel which i didn’t mind; it was like a little tour through twisty streets navigating the mad traffic with horn honking and the Imam’s call to prayer as the backdrop.

My hostel is the Wonderloft. A nice hostel. Great location for the area. I booked a private room which was about $18cdn per night but they have capsule style dorms for much less. It is clean and has good hostel amenities: pool table, foosball table, kitchen, and tv. Plus, it has a floor containing only beanbag chairs where silence is mandatory.

It is on a crazy busy side street with no lights or cross walk so every time i come or go i have to step out boldly and let the cars, motorcycles and tuk tuks swirl past me. Each time it feels like a conquest.

The people staying at the hostel Wonderloft are a good mix of travellers form SE Asia, Australia, and Europe. Young. Wearing the Asian backpacker uniform of baggy elephant pants and flip flops.

By the time i checked in to my hostel it was about 3 pm, so i just walked around to get my bearings. Around the corner from my hostel is a busy pedestrian street with cafes, buskers, jewelry makers, palm readers, and people in elaborate costumes posing for photos.

The street led to the square which was positively teeming with people. Sitting on the ground, eating and drinking, walking, and riding neon colored bicycles while wearing fancy hats that matched the bicycles. I thought there must be a festival, but have since found out it was just the weekend. It was great. I walked and had dinner on the square (vegetarian food is available but not in abundance). And i smoked a cigar on a patio.

With few exceptions the people i saw were locals. Women mostly dressed in colorful scarves and modest dress. Men dressed in jeans and t-shirts, smoking.

It was very pleasant and i stayed up too late. My sleep is a bit screwed up and i haven’t had enough of it. 3 hours last night. About the same the night before.

This morning, up early, i put on my other outfit (i have 2). I felt fresh and clean. Had some terrible instant coffee (seriously, the island is called Java, you would think they could do better) and toast with peanut butter and nutella. Heading out, i discovered i had peanut butter on my dress. Sigh. So much for being clean.

I spent the day wandering around the north of the city. Pretty white colonial buildings aside, the streets are shabby in a good way. Busy traffic, lots of shops, street vendors, tea houses, and markets. The canals are murky, smelly things but they add character. There are a surprising number of shops selling Christmas trees and decorations for what otherwise appears to be a Muslim city.

I had a coffee – a great one – from this terrific cafe which had a open lofty seating ares surrounded by trees. It felt like a treehouse. Enjoyed a cigar.

I then walked down to the Glodok neighbourhood, which is the traditional Chinese area where they had a great network of market streets selling produce, household items, herbal medicines, meat and fish.

Dinner of gado gado on a patio. Currently having a cigar and fresh soup sop juice inside at the elegant Cafe Batavia listening to live music (they just played a super funkified version of “My Way”) and smoking a cigar. That’s right…i can smoke inside! Heaven.

Asia Indonesia Trip 2017 Taiwan

Today: Taipei

Heading to Indonesia i decided to fly through somewhere i hadn’t been before and Taipei seemed like a good choice. It’s not a place i had ever thought about going and it didn’t look like a place i would want to spend a whole vacation, but a few days seemed perfect.

I arrived at about 5am after a 13 hour flight. Immigration, express train into the city, a quick map study, and 5 mins later i was at my hostel. The Bouti Capsule City Inn. I don’t usually do dorm rooms anymore but this one was so appealing and the price was right so i gave it a go. The beds are little cubbyholes stacked 2 high with a curtain at the end. When you close it, you have complete privacy. The cubby has lights, power, and is tall enough to sit up in. It suited me just fine. The place had facilities and common areas. I am looking forward to staying there again when I return.

At this end of the trip i was staying for only 1 day and 1 night, so i didn’t have time to waste. I set off at 7am or so, walking. At that time of the morning the city was pretty quiet. Nothing open or going on, but the temples were busy. I visited many that day, but particularly enjoyed the ones in the morning with people praying on their way to work and no other tourists. Late in the day they became tainted by selfie sticks and tours of people in matching shirts. But at 7am i was the only presence which sullied the otherwise peaceful vibes, surreptitiously snapping pictures and observing people in their chanting and incense burning.

The streets started to awaken and then everything became more interesting, but i have to say, based on my one day, Taipei is fine, but not fascinating or exciting to me. Many parts were just like any other fancy big city. Pretty clean and orderly with tidy shops and bike lanes, and traffic that functions familiarly.

Other parts were a bit more ramshackle, but not as interesting or bustle-y as, say, Saigon or Phnom Penh. Also, there are a lot of American chains, which is always a bit of a downer. But the strolling was pleasant. There were so many appealing looking eateries, inside and street side. The problem was the food was either soup or dumplings – both dangerous gambles when you are a vegetarian like me (who did not bother to learn any useful food-related phrases in Mandarin), so i just walked on until i finally broke down and got a rice triangle with mushrooms fro the 7-11. (7-11s in Asia do have remarkable selections of food at very cheap prices).

One thing i noticed was that every conceivable type of product and service will frequently be advertised with cute little Hello Kitty-esque characters. Transport, pharmacies, food items… you name it and there would be candy colored big eyed cartoons staring up at you. I love that stuff and started snapping pictures of some of the characters before i got overwhelmed. Adorable.

I walked through a lively pedestrian shopping area but was exhausted from jet lag ad general lack of sleep. And that’s when i saw a movie theatre with an ad for an American horror movie starting right that minute. It was just the respite i needed. An hour and a half later i emerged reinvigorated.

I took the metro, which is extremely convenient to the Chiang Kai Shek memorial, which was a grand square flanked by 4 impressive structures. There wasn’t much to see, aside from a large statue of the man himself, but it made for some nice pictures.

From there i wandered through a market area – fish, meat, clothes, and soup stalls mostly. Past more temples and then caught the metro up to very fancy shopping district, not for shopping, but to look for a cigar lounge i had read about.

The weather in Taipei was really nice for walking around; cool but warm enough that i didn’t need my hoodie. It was cloudy but did not rain. It would have been fine to sit outside and have a cigar but i didn’t really see any patio type cafes or eateries, but a posh indoor cigar bar sounded great. And it was for the most part. A lovely room, fine leather chairs, a great selection of cubans, and drinks (i has espresso). The downsides? It was quiet. Two guys smoking solo. It was expensive, so i had only one cigar. And the music was this awful, folky stuff that was just so dull. But i had an Asian limited edition Punch torpedo and was quite relaxed.

As i left the cigar lounge i found myself walking by the Taipei 101 tower, once one of the world’s tallest. It is possible to go to the top for the view but on such an overcast day it seemed like a pointless endeavour.

I took the metro and then meandered up the Museum of Contemporary Art. Small but good. It had lot of films and multimedia at the time and some films were truly weird and arty, i just sat on the floor and got lost in them.

Oh, and there was at least one large penis mosaic.

In the evening i just walked the streets around my hostel, which were positively bustling with shoppers and soup and dumpling vendors. I found a street side steamed bun vendor who had a vegetarian option. Success!

I went to bed very early.

All in all a great day. I feel like i saw a lot of the city and got a flavour for it. I will return in about 2 weeks’ time for 2 more days (which i feel like might be a day more than necessary, but there is more i want to see).

Currently on a morning flight for Jakarta. I feel like this post has been boring, but i just didn’t have any misadventures or interesting conversations, and while i had a good time, i wasn’t captivated. Well, we’ll see what’s next.

Asia China Nepal Trip 2016

Shanghai

One of the things i was delighted about in terms of my flights on this trip was that i had a 12 hour, daytime layover in Shanghai. For some reason I’ve never been that excited about visiting China but the pictures of Shanghai that i had seen all looked very nice and i seemed like an ideal spot for a long layover. The really great thing is that China has a 144 hour layover thing where if you have a long layover on the same ticket you can enter the country without a visa. I expected to be hassled at the border, but i was not; i only had to show my ticket onward. The other really great thing is that the airport is connected to the city by the Maglev train – the world’s fastest train, topping out at 301km per hour.

It is more expensive than the slower means of reaching the city, but when time is short, why would you not ride the world’s fastest train? Finding my way and getting tickets was a breeze and before i knew it my train ride was over.

I switched from the Maglev at the end stop to the subway and got off a stop 2 blocks from the Bund in central Shanghai. Success!

The weather in Shanghai was a bit of a shock after blisteringly hot and oppressively humid Delhi. It was cool and raining and the clouds were socked in. It felt like…Vancouver. My first order of business was to get an umbrella. Fortunately the subway ejected me on a decidedly commercial street – high-rises, neon signs, familiar retailers, and less familiar shops all unpleasantly (but interestingly) crowded with shoppers.

Armed with my cartoonishly tiny (child’s?) umbrella i walked to the Bund to get the postcard view of the Pudong district across the river. The Bund is a stately strip along the river, lined with a pleasant pedestrian walk and large, European looking buildings. Across the river is Pudong, which is notable for its conglomeration of modern, almost futuristic looking buildings. Unfortunately, my view was obscured by the clouds, but it still was a pleasant sight.

On a nicer day i might have walked longer along the Bund, but in the rain i decided to take my pictures and head elsewhere. Following my now-soggy map, i easily found my way to Yu Gardens and the surrounding neighbourhood. It was a good walk. I passed through a park, past a bamboo ‘forest’, past small shops, down narrow lanes which were not picturesque, but were filled with interesting dingy eateries and lines of street vendors grilling up meat, fish, tentacles, and tofu.

Exiting the temple complex i found my way to Yu Gardens. At this point it was still raining and everything was so crowded that the gardens didn’t have the serenity i imagined, but they were very beautiful, even as I was constantly assaulted by umbrellas.

From the gardens I was ejected into a super busy area filled with shops and restaurants, super crowded, and surrounded by traditional style buildings. It was a fun area to wander around in. I was starving at this point though so I didn’t linger too long in any shops, but tried to find a place to eat. This proved difficult, as I speak no Mandarin or Cantonese (and for the layover I hadn’t learned anything aside from hello and thank you) and i could not determine what, if anything was vegetarian. Almost every place I went into sold dumplings, which are a vegetarian’s nightmare – doughy mystery bags of (likely) meat. Or there were vendors selling things on sticks that might have been fish, meat, tofu, or gluten, but I couldn’t tell.

Finally i found a place that was buffet style, not as in ‘all you can eat’ but as in i could walk around from station to station and help myself to plates of pre-made food, so i could select identifiable tofu cubes, broccoli, and mushrooms. None of it was particularly good or cheap, but it was filling.

After that i wandered aimlessly. Had i had more time there were other areas i would have checked out, but i started to get nervous about missing my flight (and it was getting dark) so i walked a bit (still in the rain) before heading back to the airport. Shanghai didn’t strike me as a place i would want to purposely holiday in (it just didn’t capture my imagination), but it was a great place for a layover and i would love to have another there (hopefully with better weather). I am aware that some of my lack of enthusiasm for Shanghai was likely due to the weather and the fact that prior to arriving i had gone without sleep for a night, so i was exhausted. A rested me on a sunny day might have had a more favourable account of the same visit.

And with that, another trip concluded and planning for the next to begin.

Asia India Nepal Trip 2016

Return to (New) Delhi

I typed a whole post about this day/night back in Delhi, but lost it somehow. This is an abbreviated version.

I flew from Kathmandu back to New Delhi. The flight was so late or early that I had about 2 hours sleep and felt kind of like garbage, but i did get out and walk around and was finally able to enjoy some Indian food, as I was not sick this time. I walked through the insane traffic in the streets of Pahar Ganj, around the Smyle Inn Hostel where I was staying again.

It was blazingly hot and humid, but i couldn’t sit still. After an afternoon lunch of various curries (where the proprietor tried to change me twice the price on the menu) I walked towards this huge monkey temple I had seen when I taxed to the airport.

In the temple was a labyrinth of rooms leading to “hell”, which various spots to pray and donate money along the way. It was very tacky, but interesting. Some man insisted in giving me a bindi, which i didn’t really want, but accepted to be polite…and then the man wanted $10. He did not get it. I left.

That sour note, aside, i loved Delhi and look forward to visiting other parts of India in the future. For now though, it was time to fly home, via Shanghai.

Asia Nepal Nepal Trip 2016

Viva Nepal!

I arrived back in Kathmandu from Nagarkot mid-afternoon and felt pretty pleased with myself because while the first time i arrived in Kathmandu it was just a confounding tangle of streets and tributaries, this time i was able to give directions to the taxi driver to find my hotel.

I spent the majority of that day in my hotel, partly due to a thunderstorm but mostly due to the hotel i was staying at. As has become my habit, i booked my last two nights in a fabulous hotel. This time is is the Hotel Dalai La. It is gorgeous. Fancy and with a terrific courtyard restaurant. I felt so sloppy on arrival with my dirty clothes and my dirty self, as i had not showered for six days, but not only were they polite to me, but they upgraded me to a superior room. I spent the evening luxuriating in a needed hot shower and watching movies.

This morning, after breakfast, i taxied to Swayambhunath, aka “The Monkey Temple” a hilltop collection of Buddhist and Hindu temples surrounded by trees and countless, curious monkeys. Arriving at the temple involves climbing up 365 steep stairs, flanked by Buddhas and frequented by those ubiquitous monkeys.

The temples at the top are similar to others i have seen on this trip, but it was splendid how crammed together they all were and how busy they were with pilgrims, people praying, and making offerings.

I walked around for quite some time, watching monkeys steal food from people and visiting craft shops (me, not the monkeys). One man, attempted to open my chakras by hitting a large healing bowl with a mallet and moving it about my head, chest, and back. I felt vaguely uncomfortable, which may or may not be the feeling of open chakras.

I descended the mountain, wandered around a few more stupas, spinning prayer wheels as a went, then taxied back to Thamel.

From there i just walked aimlessly for a few hours, weaving with the traffic, declining offers of of guides, rickshaws, taxis, and pashminas. I walked through an area that sold nothing by dentures, then another that sold only textiles. It is all endlessly fascinating.

But come to an end it must. I am now in the excellent courtyard of my hotel having a cigar and dinner and that will be it for me for Nepal. I fly back to New Delhi in the morning. Nepal has been amazing and i have seen only a sliver of it. The takeaway from this is: selecting vacation destinations based on Eddie Murphy movies is an excellent idea.

Wandering North

Category: Asia

The Descent: Goa Jamblang

A Day in Yogyakarta

The Chicken Church on Java

Borobudur & Prambanan

Arrival in Yogyakarta

Jakarta

Today: Taipei

Shanghai

Return to (New) Delhi

Viva Nepal!