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Wandering North

Chronicling my travel adventures since 2007

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Posted inNorth America USA

24 Hours in California: Ojai, Burbank at Spooky Season & Venice Canals

Posted on 27 October 24
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Earlier in 2024, I discovered that there were cheap flights from Vancouver to Los Angeles and back that made for a perfect 24-hour visit to see my sister, who lives in Burbank.  Last time we used the opportunity to drive to Palm Springs. This time we had our sights set north. 

I was curious go to Ojai.  My sister and my mother had visited a while ago, and it looked so lovely that I wanted to check it out.  My sister, Dawn, and her trusty canine companion, Bear, picked me up at LAX and we immediately hit the road. Ojai is only about an hour and a half north of Los Angeles, but we a stop to make along the way.

Great Pumpkins

We stopped in Ventura at Great Pacific Pumpkins. A pumpkin patch run by 5th generation family farmers where you can go and buy your future jack-o-lanterns, or just wander around and take fun photos. The pumpkins are arranged in cute displays with bales of hay and seasonal decorations. It was delightful. We took a million photos and picked up a couple of small pumpkins for decoration.

sisters

Great Pacific Pumpkins
(the one that looks like it B&W isn’t; it is just white pumpkins on grey stones)

Oh, hi, Ojai

We arrived in Ojai quickly. And it is charming. Ojai is a small city northwest of Los Angeles in the Ojai Valley. Population just under 10,000 people.  Ojai is known for organic farming and spiritual practices and yoga and healthy living. It’s the sort of place where you would go and do a yoga retreat and live off organic vegan foods and buy expensive locally made crafts before going on a hike.  I’m not into the spiritual side of things, but as a vegetarian, the healthy food side of it really appealed to me.  I could imagine going there for a week of relaxation. (I’ll never do that though, as I seem allergic to relaxation, but I can imagine it.)

vegetation

Ojai farmers’ market

When we arrived, there was a farmers’ market on selling all the usual farmers’ market items.  We both enjoy a small town farmers’ market.  At the market, we saw Donald Glover AKA Childish Gambino, who apparently lives there part time and has a creative incubator in a citrus orchard on a farm he owns. I think Ojai has become kind of a popular place for some Los Angeles celebrities to live a quieter life.  We wandered over to a vegan restaurant and had a bite to eat. We had coffee and wandered around some more. It’s a lovely town and a great day trip from Los Angeles.

Liquids & Solids

I think the best thing about Ojai is Bart’s Books. I love bookstores and it is always interesting when they have done something sort of architecturally creative or thematically unusual.  In this instance, Bart’s Books is unusual because it is entirely outdoors. It is behind a low wall of ivy, although there are books for sale on the outside of the fence, with a little sign that says just to leave some money if you take one. Inside, all the bookshelves are outdoors, with occasional awnings to protect you and the books from the sun. This gives you a sense of how good the weather is in Ojai. It was started in 1964 by Richard “Bart” Bartinsdale, whose collection of books was so expansive that he started selling books from outdoor bookshelves outside his home.

Bart’s Books
Outside Bart’s Books

Bart’s Books

We browsed around and I picked up a book that I probably didn’t need, and we made our way back to Burbank. (We made a stop on the way back at the Ventura Cigar Lounge so I could pick up a few cigars.)

Evil Clowns in Burbank

Back in Burbank, it was evening, and we had another plan. As I have written about before, Burbank is home to lots of movie production studios, which means it’s home to a lot of movie people. They live in beautiful houses on perfectly manicured streets, and they go all out for the holidays. I’ve been there both at Christmas and Halloween previously and it’s incredible. At Halloween, the houses are all decorated. Some with modest conventional decorations but others are extreme. They have elaborate setups with animatronic figures, music, fog machines, and some have live actors. One even had a small ferris wheel. It’s amazing. And it is all free, although some of the bigger ones do take donations.

Clown House

We didn’t stay up late enough to take in all of them, but we tried to hit some of the highlights. The best was the Burbank Clown House, which was incredibly decorated and also had some live evil clowns wandering around terrify you. Dawn and I, as lovers of horror movies and all things spooky, were in heaven.

Aliens, Autopsies, Skeleton Bands, and more Evil Clowns

Burbank really doesn’t get enough credit for being a fun city. I wouldn’t recommend anyone go there unless you have a reason to go there, but once you are there, there are things to do; and if you’re already in LA, at Halloween or Christmas, I think it’s worth going to Burbank to check out the decorations.

Morning on the Venice Canals

The next morning, my flight was at about 10:00am.  Fortunately, both my Dawn and I are insane morning people. We got up before the sun and drove into Los Angeles, through Hollywood, and past all the landmark buildings. There wasn’t another car in sight.

Thankfully, at least one cafe was open (La La Land), and we stopped in and grabbed a coffee, before heading over to Santa Monica for another coffee (Dogtown) where one fellow was talking about skateboarding and another about rescue dogs, and then to Venice.

Fuel

One of the things my sister likes to do is go paddleboarding in the Venice canals, but I had never seen them, so we parked the car and went for a walk.

The Venice Canal Historic District was built in 1905 as part of the planning for the city of Venice, as they wanted to make it feel more like the Venice of Italy. It doesn’t feel anything like the Venice of Italy, but it is splendid. The canals are entirely in a residential district and there are small footpaths on either side and then little bridges crossing. All of the houses are modest but beautiful and there are lovely plants and flowers along the way. The waters were calm at that time of the morning, and small boats and canoes were tide up along the shores. It was wonderful. So serene and beautiful; it is incredible to think that it is in Los Angeles. I loved just walking along it, but I look forward to going back one day and kayaking around the area.

Venice Canals
Venice Canals

And with that, it was time to go to the airport. It was almost exactly 24 hours since I arrived. As usual, when I told people I was going to Los Angeles for 24 hours I got the typical lecturing about how that isn’t enough time to go anywhere. But when I look at how much we were able to accomplish and how much fun we had in 24 hours, there’s no question that I am going to do it again.

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Tags: 24-hours in California Burbank California canal Halloween markets road trip sister travel Travel travel blog Venice
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Posted inCanada North America

One Day in Calgary

It was about two months since my trip to Yemen, and I was desperate to go somewhere. I didn’t have enough time to do a proper trip anywhere internationally, but I just felt that urge to get on a plane. And that’s what it occurred to me: I never been to Calgary, Alberta. I also had no desire to go to Calgary, Alberta, but I looked at the flights and there was a flight leaving early in the morning and coming back in the evening for about $100 round trip on Flair Airlines. Without giving it any more thought, I booked the trip. I may have had no interest in Calgary, but surely there would be enough there for me to be entertained for the day.

The time it took me to get to the airport in Vancouver was longer than my whole flight to Calgary which was only about an hour and a half. I landed in the morning and took a bus into the city. It was a Saturday and I wasn’t quite sure where to go, but the bus dropped me off in the business district, which was kind of a ghost town on the weekend. I found a nice cafe and had an espresso and came up with sort of a plan.

I went for a bit of a stroll which involved walking down Stephen Avenue, a pedestrian street lined with restaurants and shops. Nothing on the street interested me other than a few statues in the area, but it was good for a wander.

Stephen Avenue

Weirdly, the thing that I was most excited about seeing in Calgary was the public library. It is an impressive modern art building completed in 2015, the work of a Norwegian and American design firm. It has a huge atrium with a lot of light and curved wooden elements. It’s very nice but I have to say that its shape did remind me a bit of a vagina. It’s worth checking out if you are in the area; it has some sculptures outside which are interesting and the building itself is attractive, but also inside there were various art displays and lots of places to sit and relax.  But I had no time for relaxing. I was only there for the day.

Public Library, Central Branch

I spoke to the people at the information desk at the library and they recommended that I check out the National Music Centre.  It wasn’t on my radar previously, but it was free on the day that I happened to be there so I figured why not check it out.

This was another knew an impressive building, although unlike the library I didn’t find this one to be that attractive. Nevertheless, it was something to see.  They had live music concerts going on and displays about the history of different genres of music in Canada. It was more interesting than I thought actually and I gave it a walk through. Not really giving it the time that it deserved but I got a sense of this thing and it gave me some more appreciation for Canadian musical artists.

National Music Centre

From there I had decided to walk to a neighbourhood called Inglewood as I heard that it was sort of the “hipster” kind of neighbourhood of Calgary. It was a beautiful Sunday and a pleasant walk over a little river and into the neighbourhood. This was my favourite area that I saw while I was in Calgary. It had a street lined with lovely shops. Thrift stores, record stores, bookstores, coffee shops, even a vegan bakery.  I browsed around, bought a book, and had a bite to eat.

Inglewood

There was also a small art museum called the Esker Foundation on the 4th floor of a commercial building. The art was good and although it was a small space there was a lot to look at. This was also free and, strangely, it didn’t even have anyone working at the information desk. I would have thought that it was closed except the doors were opened and the lights were on. I was delighted with the find.

Esker Foundation

If I had more time, I think I could have spent more of it in Inglewood just exploring the neighbourhood, but I had two more stops to make.

I called an Uber and I went to Contemporary Calgary, another modern art museum. This one wasn’t free, but it had reasonable admission price which was absolutely worth it. It had some excellent exhibits, including several by American artists dealing with subjects like slavery and immigration that were quite moving.

Contemporary Calgary

It was just about 5:00pm and I had my final stop to make on Calgary day tour and this was the thing that I most wanted to do in Calgary. Years before, my mother, whose name is Betty-Lou had told me about her speakeasy bar at Calgary called Betty-Lou’s Library. How could I not visit? I love a speakeasy bar, and my mother loves books, so how could I help visit the bar that seems to be her namesake? It was delightful. It was in the basement of an older building on a residential street just off of a commercial street. You’re supposed to make a reservation, although I’m not sure it’s technically necessary. I had emailed them to make the reservation, and I had gotten the necessary code word. Entering the building, I picked up an old-fashioned phone, and they asked me for the code word which I gave them. (The name of an English author.) And then a bookcase opened and I was let inside. The decor is exactly what you would want in a place like this: vintage furniture, dark with red lighting, and old time jazz. It was wonderful. It was also just after 5:00pm and they had just opened, so I was one of only three people inside but I bet it would be even more fun to go later in the evening when it’s busy.

Betty-Lou’s Library

I sat at the bar and had a cocktail and chatting with the bartender I told her about my mother Betty-Lou and how she loved books, and I showed her the tattoo I have of Betty-Lou’s name on my arm as proof that I wasn’t inventing the story. The bartender told me that the owner had named the bar after his mother whose name is also Betty-Lou and a photo of her was hung above the bar. The owner came out and introduced himself and then my next drink was on the house. I was delighted to have been able to go to this place. (Thanks mom)

And with that, it was time to return to the airport. I called an Uber and arrived just in time for my flight.

I had a thoroughly enjoyable day and would recommend it to people living in Vancouver who have never been to Calgary and need a little travel fix. Would I go back? I don’t think so. I did everything that I wanted to do (and more) but I didn’t like the city enough to warrant a return visit. There’s nothing wrong with it really, I just didn’t really like it. It’s definitely a driving city, not a walking one, and a lot of it just feels very business-y and not that interesting or beautiful, however, I was delighted to have gone.

This trip would tide me over until my Mongolia trip in August.

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Read More about One Day in Calgary
Posted on 14 June 25
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Posted inNorth America USA

Where to Smoke Cigars in Detroit

Detroit was a good cigar town. You can’t smoke everywhere, but patios seem to be fine and there are several cigar lounges.

In the downtown core there were four good spots.

  • La Casa Cigars and Lounge. This place had a well-stocked, walk-in humidor on one side and a bar/cigar lounge on the other. The humidor had the best selection of Foundation cigars I had seen (amongst many other brands) and the prices were very good. The bar side was casual with a pub-like feel. TVs and high-topped tables and bar seating, along with a few sofas.  A good place to go and watch the game. What game? Any game. We went there twice and both times it was busy with a crowd, friendly, and a bit loud. A comfortable neighbourhood kind of place. It is also quite close to the baseball stadium, so it made for a good pre and post-game cigar spot.

  • The London Chop House aka LCH Cigar Lounge. I wrote about this place in my other Detroit post. It is a proper, old fashioned steak joint with all of the manly décor you would expect. It is dark, and fancy, yet cozy, with live jazz and a steakhouse-y menu. Iceberg wedge salads, garlic mashed potatoes, and various cuts of meat. Great cocktails and service. You cannot smoke in the restaurant, but upstairs is a bar with a small walk-in humidor and that bar is cigar friendly.  You could go and visit only the lounge, but I think skipping the restaurant would be a mistake. It is just the perfect atmosphere, and I say this as a vegetarian. There was literally nothing on the menu that I could eat apart from asparagus and salad, and I still recommend it for the ambience, music, and service. (And the cigars, obviously.)

  • Uralli Cigar Bar. This is place is inside the Detroit Club – a private members’ club. The kind of place where there is a dress code and men go after a long day at the office to drink and avoid going home to their families. While you need to be a member to go to the Club, membership is not required for the cigar bar. The Club looks quite exclusive and I worried I would be stopped at the door, but I wasn’t and I was able to go to the second floor to Uralli Cigar Bar. It is a bit of a weird room.  The whole building is old, but somehow this room feel less old; maybe like it was renovated (more1980s than 1880s). That said, I had a great time. It was very quiet when I arrived about 10:30pm). Just two people at the bar: a couple from Detroit. They were very friendly and they and the bartender and I chatted for over an hour as I enjoyed a cigar and a cocktail. They did have a small selection of cigars for sale, but I didn’t check them out as I had my own and, after a few cocktails already that evening, my attention to detail was waning. I would have happily stayed for another round, but it was late and I was pushing the limit into being tipsy.

  • Did it My Way Detroit Cigar and Wine Bar. The newest cigar lounge in Detroit at the time we went, this place is slick. It is fancy in a VIP, urban way with an illuminated bar, stylish lounge furniture, and cool art. Importantly, it has a big walk-in humidor for shopping as well private humidor lockers for cigar storage. We went there twice. The cocktails were great, the music was good, and the bartenders were friendly. The first time we went it was earlier in the day and it was quieter and chill; the second time it was evening and the place was hopping. Both were great experiences.

I found online many other places to smoke in and around Detroit (I regrettably did not get to Byrd’s Cigar Lounge), but only visited these four, all of which were walking distance to each other. Smoking outside in Detroit elicited no negative comments or nasty glances. It was a non-issue. At each of the smoking lounges, not only was there a varied cross section of patrons, but there were even people who did not smoke cigars enjoying the space. It dd not feel snobbish.  It was so refreshing to be able to enjoy a cigar without being hidden away or segregated.  Sometimes it feels like places like this are disappearing in North America, but Detroit made me and my cigars feel welcome.

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Read More about Where to Smoke Cigars in Detroit
Posted on 7 April 25
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Posted inCanada North America

Toronto Layover: A Mediocre Experience

I had a layover in Toronto on my way back from Detroit. I was excited because, despite living in Canada fir most of my life, I had never been to Toronto. It would not be a long layover, but enough to get a little taste.

I took the train from the airport into the downtown core, which is the financial district. The train ride was easy and pleasant and stepping out into the city, my first impression was positive. It looked like a real city. Not like Vancouver. It looked big and tall and important.  I craned my neck to look at the buildings and as careful to keep out of the way of people who seemed to be in a hurry to get somewhere.

Since I didn’t have a lot of time, I had decided to walk to this area called The Distillery Historic District, which is kind of an old former distillery, repurposed into shops, art galleries, and restaurants. Lots of bricks and bits of art. It was decent. I went to a nice café and looked around.

On the way there I had planned to visit the St. Lawrence Market, an old food market, but it was closed that day.

I stopped by Berczy Park where there was a curious fountain; two tiers high it was ringed with statues of different dogs, and at least one cat.  The fountain wasn’t on, but I liked the whimsy of it.

I wandered around the downtown core more and found it underwhelming. Once that initial view was gone, so was my first impression. The city just felt sort of ordinary and without character or interest for me. I am completely aware that I saw only one or two areas and that there is probably a lot of good and interesting stuff in Toronto. I am certain that it has a lot more going on than Vancouver. I just didn’t like Toronto as a layover city. Easy to visit, but not interesting to me.

But I didn’t care that Toronto was not exciting, because my next destination would be Yemen.

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Read More about Toronto Layover: A Mediocre Experience
Posted on 7 April 25
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About Wandering North

Welcome to Wandering North, where I have been blogging about my travels since 2007.

Dale Raven North

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  • Hello Kitty to the Rescue: A Layover in Seoul 28 July 25
  • One Day in Calgary 14 June 25
  • London Layover: The Canals 30 April 25
  • Cairo Layover: The Interrogation 30 April 25
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