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Wandering North

Chronicling my travel adventures since 2007

  • Home
  • About Me
  • Where I’ve Been
  • Destinations
    • Africa
      • Algeria
      • Benin
      • Botswana
      • Burkina Faso
      • Côte d’Ivoire
      • Democratic Republic of the Congo
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      • Egypt
      • Eritrea
      • Ethiopia
      • Ghana
      • Mauritania
      • Morocco
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      • Senegal
      • South Sudan
      • Sudan
      • Togo
      • Tunisia
      • Uganda
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      • Zimbabwe
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      • Azerbaijan
      • Bangladesh
      • Brunei Darussalam
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      • China
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      • Japan
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      • Malaysia
      • Nepal
      • Oman
      • Pakistan
      • Philippines
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      • South Korea
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      • Thailand
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Tag: Border

Posted inEgypt Yemen Trip 2025

Cairo Layover: The Interrogation

This was barely a layover, but because it involves a rather funny story, I thought it deserved its own post. My two travelling companions, John and Doc, and I had left Yemen, flying from Seiyun to Cairo. Our stopover was incredibly brief: we landed in Cairo at 9:45 PM, and my flight out was scheduled for 5:45 AM the next morning. Originally, I planned to just rough it and sleep at the airport terminal. However, realizing how crucial a good night’s rest would be, and seeing that airport hotels were reasonably priced, we each booked a room at Le Passage Cairo Hotel right next to the airport. I highly recommend it—even in the middle of the night, they have food and beverage options open, and the property itself is very nice. But first, I actually had to get there.

To leave the airport, we each had to go through immigration to get our passports stamped into Egypt. John and Doc passed through within seconds with absolutely no questions asked. When I stepped up to the counter, however, the officer looked at my passport and began typing furiously into her computer. She asked where I was coming from and where I was heading. I explained that I had just arrived from Yemen and was flying to London in the morning. She kept staring at her screen. Finally, she called over a colleague, who instructed me to follow them into a small side room. None of this particularly worried me, except for the fact that it was cutting into my precious sleeping time. I knew I hadn’t done anything wrong, so I wasn’t anxious.

The little room turned out to be an interrogation office, complete with a desk, filing cabinets, and a couple of chairs. A thin man wearing glasses, a white button-up shirt, and a tie was standing inside. He spoke flawless English and invited me to sit at the desk. He held my passport in his hand, and what followed was approximately five minutes of pure silence. Five minutes might not sound like a long time, but in a setting like that, it feels like an eternity.

The man pulled a pack of cigarettes from his pocket, unpeeled the cellophane slowly, selected a cigarette, and tapped it deliberately against the desk before lighting it. He then took off his glasses, cleaned them with a cloth, inspected the lenses in the light, and put them back on. Next, he stood up, adjusted a fan mounted near the ceiling, and switched it on. Finally, he sat down and began slowly flipping through my passport, the cigarette dangling casually from his lip.

At this point, the performance ended and the questioning began. He asked where I was coming from and exactly why I had gone to Yemen. I explained multiple times that I was simply on holiday and enjoyed visiting unique countries. He asked what I did for a living, and I told him I was a lawyer in Canada returning to my home and job the day after next. He also questioned me about the short layover I had in Cairo on my way to Yemen, noting it was suspicious that I had gone into the city for such a brief window. I countered, “Why would I miss an opportunity to go into one of the world’s greatest cities for breakfast?”

He repeated several of his questions, looking for cracks in my story. Finally, he stared directly at me and said, “I don’t believe a single thing you are telling me. But I cannot find a reason to keep you here, so I am going to let you go.”

He handed my passport back and sent me through immigration, where it was stamped and I was finally released. It was a bizarre interaction, and I have no idea what the fellow thought I was actually up to. Honestly, I am glad it happened because I thoroughly appreciated his weird, exaggerated mime theatrics. Perhaps I should have been nervous, but I was simply too exhausted to care.

my Yemen Visa

When I finally checked into the hotel, I was still too wired to sleep. I sat outside in the courtyard having one final cigar before going to bed for a grand total of two hours. The next morning, I would be landing in London for one final day of vacation before heading home to Canada.

a final cigar
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Posted on 30 April 25
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Posted inArgentina Argentina/Uruguay/Paraguay trip 2025 South America Uruguay

From Buenos Aires to Montevideo

From Buenos Aires, Argentina, I was heading to Montevideo, Uruguay. Flying was an option, but I decided to go by ferry. The two capital cities are separated by a large estuary called the Río de la Plata.  Flights are only about 50 minutes but factoring in the hassle of going to and from airports against the relative pleasure of riding a boat, it was an easy decision.

There are lots of ferry options between the two cities, many of them were slow ferries, stopping along the way, taking up to 7 hours.  The express ferry takes 2.5 hours and is direct. That was the one that I decided to take, operated by Buquebus. I booked in advance, which based on the crowds on the ferry, I think was a good idea.

crowds queuing

I booked the earliest ferry I could find online (departing at 7:15am and arriving 9:45am), and on the morning of my departure I walked from my hostel in Buenos Aires to the ferry terminal. Part of the reason I had picked the hostel I did was because it was walking distance to the ferry terminal. I arrived early and there was a large crowd waiting to pick up their tickets. Even though I had booked online and had no luggage to check, I still had to pick up a paper ticket.  The ferry terminal is new and modern and has a cafe and Wi-Fi, so it wasn’t a bad place to pass the time.

terminal

I picked up my ticket and boarded the ferry.

There are four classes of ticket for walk on passengers and they range from about $80 to $150 US. Normally I would get the cheapest, but in this case, I decided to get the first-class ticket. In hindsight that was a good decision. I think at the time it was the only class that offered free Wi-Fi, which was part of the reason that I selected it. It allows priority check in and boarding, but it also meant that I got to exit the boat first which was a huge time saver or given how busy the ship was and how slow it appeared people were disembarking. I had access to a lounge with free drinks and snacks prior to departure.

On board, there the first-class seating was comfortable and on the top of the ship. It had kind of a weird 60s décor, but the seats were very comfortable and there was free Wi-Fi and charging ports and some complimentary beverages. Most importantly it was very calm. The other cabins when I walked through them as I was leaving were absolutely packed and full of lots of noisy families and they just didn’t seem as appealing. I found the journey incredibly tranquil.

first class seats and coffee

The business class seating looked pretty nice too, but they didn’t offer the free Wi-Fi.

business class seats

As they had checked my passport when I was boarding the ship, when I exited, I just walked into Montevideo and was steps away from the city centre. There was none of the hassle of airports and taxis. It was maybe 1 of the easiest non-European border crossings I’ve ever had.

And just like that, I was in a new country and ready to explore Montevideo, Uruguay.

view of the Rio

Read More about From Buenos Aires to Montevideo
Posted on 12 February 25
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Posted inAsia Cyprus Cyprus Christmas trip 2024

Nicosia: the Divided City’s Northern (Turkish) Side

I had already spent a day and a night on the Greek side of Nicosia, Cyprus, which I’ve written about in my previous post. But after breakfast that morning it was time to cross over to the other side. The Turkish side. I had already seen the border crossing multiple times, but this was the first time I would actually cross it. Approaching it, it feels like a real border. There are checkpoints on either side and signs. I queued up with the rest of the people and showed them my passport; unfortunately they didn’t stamp it, but they did look at it and looked at me, and then handed it back and told me to have a nice day. So in many respects it was just like any other European border crossing. I didn’t know what to expect on the other side.

approaching the border

no man’s land between the two borders

On the other side it was a bit like Dorothy stepping through the door into Oz; things were quite different. On the other side was a market and it was very clearly Turkish. The side I had just left, felt like Greece, but this was Turkey. Baklavas stacked high, hookahs in the windows, Turkish style textiles and pottery, mosque minarets rising up towards the sky. It was incredible.

I walked immediately to my hotel, Hotel Valide Hanim Konak. This was a little bit of a splurge, but it looked so charming I couldn’t resist. And it lived up to the pictures. I went and wandered around.

Valide Hanım Konak

As with the other side there wasn’t much in particular that I wanted to see I just wanted to absorb the atmosphere.

I loved the streets and the cafes and buildings of the Turkish side. There were mosques and a caravanserai. Charming markets and side streets. It was sort of place that was perfect for aimless exploration. I had a delightful time. No museums or attractions of that sort, just lots of walking and looking around. I had a very nice dinner and slept in my comfortable bed. In the morning, I had an excellent coffee and a bit of a Turkish style breakfast in the market, watching people hang out their wares for sale and cats lurking around for a bit of attention.

I couldn’t find any cigar stores on this side, but smoking on patios wasn’t a problem although the weather was not particularly cooperative. It started raining and became windy, which put a bit of a damper on my evening activities.

I will say that the Greek side had more to do in terms of attractions and overall it was probably a little bit more picturesque, but I preferred the Turkish side because I just generally I’m more drawn to that sort of cultural vibe, but both sides were excellent. I think Nicosia is one of those places that would make a good travel destination for anyone because there’s enough to see and do and it is just so terribly interesting to visit because of its geographical and political anomalies.

I took the bus back to Larnaca and then a taxi to the airport and flew to Munich.

I had spent about 3 and a half days in Larnaca and Nicosia, which was an amount of time that I was satisfied with. I think I may go back someday to see more of the country.

I would arrive in Munich quite late but with just enough time to have a small sleep in the city and take in something of the Christmas atmosphere. 

More on that in the next post.

Read More about Nicosia: the Divided City’s Northern (Turkish) Side
Posted on 28 December 24
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Posted inAfrica Zambia Zimbabwe Zimbabwe-Zambia 2023

Zimbabwe to Zambia: a border crossing on foot

When I was finished my time in Victoria Falls, the town, it was time for me to crossover into a new country: Zambia. There are two opportunities to visit Victoria Falls, the falls: Victoria Falls, the town, which is in Zimbabwe; and Livingston, which is on the Zambian side of the falls. Before I traveled to Victoria Falls, I had some anxiety about how best to approach the falls. Which town was the better way to see them? But that anxiety was really unnecessary. The short answer is you should visit both sides because traveling between the two cities is very easy. (The only thing to factor in is, depending on your nationality, you might need to pay for a new visa every time you enter Zimbabwe and that can get a little bit expensive. As usual though visa rules change all the time so you should check before you go.)

The view of the falls from the Zimbabwe inside is the best view, but there are more falls-related activities on the Zambian side. Plus, the town of Livingstone, I thought, was far superior to town Victoria Falls, which I just fund too touristy.

When it was time for me to leave Victoria Falls (the city) and Zimbabwe, I took a taxi from my hostel to the part of the falls where the bridge crosses over. At that point I got stamped out of Zimbabwe and then I just walked across the border.

Me on the Zimbabwean side before starting the walk across to Zambia.

The walk from the road to the falls is a bit of a distance and then you cross a bridge. The best thing is that when you are halfway across the bridge you were literally on the border in between Zambia and Zimbabwe. It’s one of those things that is maybe only interesting to travel and geography dorks, but I thought it was very cool. Did I take pictures? You bet I did.

The road to the bridge and then crossing the bridge

Entering Zambia

Views of the Zambezi River

When you get to the other side, now in Zambia, you go through immigration. Canadians don’t need a visa for Zambia, so I was expecting it to be easy. While there wasn’t a bunch of paperwork, the officer at the border did have a lot of questions for me and wanted to see my accommodations booking and my proof that I was leaving the country.

After leaving immigration there were countless taxi men hanging around to give rides. After a bit of haggling, I hired a taxi and started the drive into the city of Livingstone and to my accommodations. Here’s where things got amazing.

We were just driving along the street and all of a sudden, I saw on the side of the road two zebras. I freaked out with excitement and insisted that he pull over so I could look at them. I appreciate that for him this isn’t a big deal; I live in Canada and so it’s common to see things like bears and deer and moose, but I had never seen zebras before. Maybe in a zoo when I was little. I was delighted. Zambia was off to an excellent start.

The next day I would visit the Devil’s Pool.

My first zebra!

Read More about Zimbabwe to Zambia: a border crossing on foot
Posted on 9 November 23
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Posted inAfrica Botswana Zimbabwe-Zambia 2023

Beautiful Botswana: A Day in Chobe

Like just about everyone else who goes to Victoria Falls, I did a day trip in to Chobe National Park in Botswana. Botswana was a new country for me and while I would love to go and see other parts of Botswana, because it looks simply stunning, this would be the only part of the country that I would see at this time. As beautiful as Botswana is, it’s also very expensive; it is a tourism model like Rwanda has, which is fewer tourists with more money in order to better preserve the ecology. I don’t have an issue with that, but it moves Botswana further down my travel list as a place I’d like to spend a lot of time in.

Flag of Botswana

I did the day tour with Africa Zim Travel & Tours there are a lot of companies who offer this particular package. They pick you up at your hotel early in the morning, they drive you across the border into Botswana, you visit Chobe National Park, you have lunch, you visit more of the park, they return you to Zimbabwe. It’s a pretty long day, but definitely worthwhile, and not very expensive considering everything that’s included.

My group was about 11 people, so not too big. I didn’t really make connections with many of the people. We spent most of the time just in the van driving and then looking at animals. But the few people that I talked to seemed pleasant and they were from all around the world.

The drive to the border was pleasant. At the border we got out of the van and walked to the building that would stamp us out of Zimbabwe and then to the building that would stamp us into Botswana. I didn’t need a visa for Botswana so there were no major formalities – just don’t forget your passport.

Entering Chobe National Park
Our transportation for the morning.

We entered Chobe National Park. As I mentioned in my post about Victoria Falls, I was there during the low / dry season. I think that visiting Chobe National Park during a wetter season would be more beautiful as it would be more lush. A lot of the trees were dead and leafless; of course, this provided for some interesting landscapes.

landscape

We drove all morning looking for animals.

And here is where I am going to tell you that this was the first time that I had ever been on a safari drive. I’ve always sort of wanted to go on a safari, but it just seemed cost prohibitive so I’ve never done it. And while I have seen animals in Africa, I’ve never gone a focused drive to go see animals in Africa before. And here’s where I tell you that I wasn’t 100% into it. It was interesting to see the landscape and it was nice to see the animals but at no point did I feel moved or amazed.

It was cool to see elephants, impalas, kudus, waterbuck, warthogs, gazelles, and mongooses, but it wasn’t exciting. Even lions; we did see five of them under trees, but it were not particularly exciting to me. We would we watch them sleeping or eating and everyone has their cameras out and you are all sort of struggling to get a good view of the animals, and I just found that a bit tiresome. This is not to say that I didn’t have a good time, it’s just that i somehow was expecting it to be more exciting than it was. The highlight of the morning was probably when we saw the giraffes. (A tower of giraffes.) I’ve seen giraffes in zoos before but never in real life, so when we came upon them it was pretty it was pretty impressive, even if we couldn’t get very close.

We stopped and had lunch at a resort along the river. I wish I knew the name of it, but it was fancy and in sort of a traditional style. They had a vast buffet of delicious western and African foods that we ate while looking out at the river. Not being one for group activities, I chatted with people for about 30 minutes, scarfed down my lunch, and then moved to the side of the river to have a quick cigar before the second half of the day. Time well spent.

cigar break

After lunch, we boarded a boat to visit some of the park from the water. This was nice in the way that being on the boat is always nice, but again it wasn’t super exciting. We saw lots of hippos. (Did you know a group of hippos is called a “bloat”?) We saw various creatures on the land including a big lizard and groups of elephants walking along the water. Very pleasant, but not necessarily remarkable.

I don’t mean to sound grumpy. I had a good day, I just was expecting something more exciting. All the animals we saw that day paled in comparison to the excitement that I felt when I passed the two elephants on the side of the road on my previous night in Victoria Falls. I think it was the fact that I was out with the expectation of animals so when I saw the animals all it did was meet my expectations; it didn’t excite me. I am so glad I went, and I would certainly recommend it. My expectations may have just been too high.

We drove back to the border of Zimbabwe where I had to purchase another single entry visa, because I had been unable to purchase a multiple entry visa when I first arrived in Harare. And they drove us to our hotels.

More animals seem hanging out at the border crossing.
It is unclear if this monkey works for Nelson’s of Durham.

So I can now say that I’ve been to Botswana.  If I wanted to get really technical I can tell you that while we were on the boat we actually crossed over the border an entered Namibia, but I’m not going to count that as a country visited, because that would be ridiculous. It is incredible that all these countries – Zambia, Zimbabwe, Namibia, and Botswana – all come together in such a small area. If one was really committed, I suppose you could visit all four in one day. Maybe that’s an activity for another time.

four countries converge

I went out for dinner and a cigar that night in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, and the next day I was crossing the border on foot into Zambia.

Read More about Beautiful Botswana: A Day in Chobe
Posted on 8 November 23
1
Posted inBalkans Trip 2023 Bosnia and Herzegovina Europe Montenegro

Bus from Sarjevo to Podgorica

I decided to take the bus from Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina to Podgorica, Montenegro. I was flying home from Podgorica, Montenegro so I needed to get there, and the bus was the cheapest and best option. I might have flown, but none of the flights were direct or cheap. I am happy I took the bus. It was easy, cheap, and very fast.  Train was not an option.

I bought my bus ticket from the bus station on the morning I was leaving. It cost about $30 CDN. It was supposed to be about a seven-hour journey, but it ended up taking less than six. The bus was a basic minibus. Comfortable, but totally full, so I was glad I arrived early enough to get a ticket. Not everyone was so lucky.

The journey was pleasant. We made two to three short stops (in Foča and Nikšić); enough to use the washroom and buy water.

The scenery was stunning. Mountain villages to bright blue lakes to steep mountain passages.  I listened to music and enjoyed the journey.

At the border, we crossed at the Hum border crossing, they took our passports and stamped them. No questions. And we were in Montenegro. A new country to explore.

Sooner than expected we arrived in Podgorica, at a small, brutalist, concrete bus station.  I walked to my hotel, ready to see what the capital of Montenegro had to offer.

Read More about Bus from Sarjevo to Podgorica
Posted on 9 September 23
2
Posted inBelarus Belarus/Dubai trip 2023 Europe

Arrival in Belarus: My Longest Border Crossing

Flag and Map of Belarus

I landed at the airport in Minsk sometime after 11:00pm. I had flown there from Vancouver via London and Dubai. Normally I would have flown through Europe, but because of the ongoing war in Ukraine and, at the time, the sanctions against Belarus by nearly every country in Europe, I had to fly via Dubai. I had spent a nice day in Dubai and was now at my final destination. On the flight to Minsk, I noticed live airplane map that our route for the direct flight between Dubai and Belarus wasn’t even direct. Because of the war, we couldn’t fly over Ukraine; we had to veer off East to fly over Russia and then back to Belarus, making the flight even longer. It had taken me over 30 hours to get there; I was tired, and I just wanted to go to my hostel.  

Flight Map from Dubai to Minsk

But first, the formalities…

At the time that I went to Belarus the options for getting a visa were this: I could apply for a visa ahead of time (a lengthy and annoying process) or I could fly to Minsk and get an automatic 30-day visa on arrival. That was my plan. All that was required was some paperwork and health insurance from a Belarusian provider. (I got the health insurance online, but there is a booth right at immigration where you can buy it.) I did not anticipate there to be any problems. But border crossings are unpredictable.

I was one of the first people off the plane and in the queue to go through immigration to enter the country.  A buxom, blonde woman in a military-type uniform scrutinized my passport with a magnifying glass, looking at each page carefully. I had expected this, having read blog posts from other travelers where the same thing happened. But then she called out to one of her colleagues. A young, thin man dressed in similar attire escorted me from the line. He took me back to an area near an office and asked me to sit on a bench just outside of it. He took my passport and arranged around me a little fence of stanchions and ropes to keep me in place. “This is weird.” I thought. But I wasn’t concerned.

He disappeared into the office with my passport and about 15 minutes later asked me to follow him inside. I was still not nervous at this point. I was just curious as to what was going to happen.

Inside, they proceeded to ask me questions. They asked me every conceivable question about my life and my travel plans. They asked me why and where I was going; they asked me how I had planned the trip; why I had chosen it; where I was staying; who I knew there; had I ever been to Russia before (I had); had I been to Ukraine before (I had); did I know anyone anywhere from Russia, Ukraine, or Belarus; the nature of my job; what kind of law I practised; and on and on. They wanted to look at my paper maps and at my notebook, as well as the pages I had photocopied from my Lonely Planet.  I had highlighted things on the maps, and they wanted to know why. 

They then sent me back out to the bench and I sat there for … I don’t even know how long. While I was sitting there, I noticed that a few other people had been pulled out of the queue as well. Three other men went into the room and were questioned briefly and then were sent on their way into Belarus. One fellow was denied entry into the country for not having some paperwork and he was told that he would have to fly back to wherever it was he came from. At this point I started to not get worried, but I did start to think of alternative plans if I was denied entry.

They then called me back in and went through my phone, where they looked at my emails, at my contacts, and at my social media profiles, which they scrolled through. They looked at my laptop and went through the same things again, as well as my browser history and some documents I had saved on my desktop.

A different person asked me nearly all the same questions again. It seems that the thing that they were most interested in was my blog. This blog. I didn’t tell them that I had a travel blog, but they saw the links to it on my social media profiles and they asked me questions about it. I’m not sure if they were able to read the posts, but they looked at a lot of them. I just explained to them it’s a hobby blog that I write about my travels. They seemed very concerned that I was a journalist.  

In scrolling through my Instagram, he asked me “Why you have picture of Putin?” I thought for a second, genuinely confused, and I said, “I have a picture of Putin?” And then he showed me, and I did have a picture of Putin. It was a protest poster in Riga that I had taken a picture of the year before. I just explained that I just thought it was an interesting piece of art.

He also asked me peculiar questions like, “Do you know what March the 9th is?” I said, confused, “Tuesday?” And he said “Do you know Victory Day? And I said, “Yes! It’s the day that the Soviets defeated the Nazis in World War Two,” feeling proud of myself like I got an answer right on a history quiz. It hadn’t occurred to me that Day was occurring during my trip. I had been to Russia for Victory Day many years ago and I was delighted to discover that I was going to be in Minsk this time (and I did attend the festivities), but he wanted to know if that was a reason that I was going to Minsk at this time.

All of this might sound kind of intimidating and scary, but it really wasn’t. The men were polite, and I never felt threatened or intimidated. If it wasn’t for the fact that I was very tired, it was kind of a nice experience. Really? You want to sit down and ask me about my travels? There are two things that I love to talk about more than anything else: myself and travel. Ha. I will never stop talking.

Also, I was very polite and cooperative. As they were asking me these questions, I kept thinking about the advice that I would give a client if they’re being cross-examined in court. I would tell them to think about every question to make sure they understand the question (and if not to ask for a clarification); don’t get emotional; and don’t volunteer more information that you are being asking for. And that’s how I handled this interrogation. Those years in law school paid off.

They sent me back out to the bench a final time and I waited again. It was now past 1:30am, so I had been there for about 2 1/2 hours.  Finally, they came out, gave me my passport, and sent me on my way.  I went back up to the buxom blonde, who stamped my passport, and I was in Belarus.

Belarusian Rubles

I took a taxi to my hostel the Urban Hostel. It was very late, and I just checked in and went to bed. It was a great hostel: good location, walk-able to everything, great amenities, and very cheap. I recommend it.

Urban Hostel in Minsk

While I was obviously happy to be in Belarus, I have to say that that initial introduction did give me some pause. I had certainly heard a lot about Belarus is being kind of a Soviet throwback state with a lot of military and police oversight and possibly surveillance. And after that initial introduction, I was cautious. I didn’t tell anyone what had happened. I would be in the country for five days and I still had to leave.  I had done some Googling and heard from some locals about how there can be serious consequences for seemingly very minor infractions or even conversations, so I was careful about what I talked about and to whom during my trip. (I will not go into any detail here, but you can Google these things.) I think Belarus is a perfectly safe and lovely place to travel, but an element of discretion is advisable.

Flash forward: When I left Belarus, I had no issue whatsoever. They didn’t ask me any questions; they just stamped my passport, and I was on my way back to Dubai.

I don’t know if Belarus is always this tight with its security and immigration, or if it was more so just because of the war, but it would not deter me from going back.  I loved Minsk and the trip I did outside of Minsk.  I would certainly go back to Belarus; I would just plan an earlier arrival.

On to the posts about Minsk…

Read More about Arrival in Belarus: My Longest Border Crossing
Posted on 7 May 23
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Posted inAsia Central Asia 2022 Kazakhstan

A Bit of Luxury in Almaty

Crossing back into Kazakhstan from Kyrgyzstan

I had a flight booked from Bishkek back to Almaty. A very short and very inexpensive flight. However, having experienced how quick and easy it is to cross by (shared) taxi and on foot, I decided to skip the airports altogether, ditched the flight and caught a taxi to the Kazakhstan/Kyrgyzstan border.

I walked across, it was quick and almost without hassle.  I say “almost” because the immigration guard for Kazakhstan said insistently that I needed a visa. I just responded “No, I don’t.  I get an automatic 30 day visa at the border.” He shrugged and wordlessly stamped my passport.

the path from one border checkpoint to the next

Back on Kazakh soil, immediately the women who was in the queue behind me started speaking to me in English. She was from Kyrgyzstan but living in Almaty. She wanted to know if I would share a taxi with her. I said “Absolutely.” She found us a car with two other people waiting and did the haggling (getting us a better price than I could have gotten myself. And in moments we were off.  It was a nice drive, with pleasant chats and a stop at a roadside stand for fresh horse milk and balls of qurut. The ride was about $4 CDN and I was in Almaty by 11am.

fresh milk for the road
fuel for the road

Back in Almaty and into the lobby of luxury

Back in Almaty at the bus station, I caught a taxi to my hotel for my final night of this trip.  I usually stay at hostels or budget accommodation, but sometimes I like to have a bit of a splurge on my final night. To have my own room and not share a bathroom with anyone. That is what I was doing that day and…what a splurge.

I stayed one night at the fabulous Rixos Almaty. Definitely, as far as big hotels go, it is the fanciest place I have ever stayed. Like a Grand Budapest Hotel. Gleaming white in the day and illuminated pink at night.  The lobby is a huge atrium with trees and intimidatingly posh-looking cafes – oh, and it has a cigar store and lounge, which was the deciding factor that caused me to book it.

Rixos Almaty

Walking in, I felt like Eddie Murphy in Beverley Hills Cop when he walks into the Beverly Palm Hotel, clearly out of place. I always wear black, and I don’t wear athletic wear, sneakers, or sandals, so I didn’t look super casual, but I had a backpack, and I wasn’t that clean. Everyone else looked very clean and classy. But I had the golden ticket. I had a reservation.

the lobby

My room was…wow. Huge and with a balcony and a giant bed and the biggest bathtub.  Maybe that doesn’t sound like a big deal, but I had just been sharing a single toilet with four men and several cockroaches, so this was a welcome change.

my room (bubble bath pictures not included)

I had a bubble bath, got cleaned up, and headed out. First stop was the cigar lounge for a Partagas Series D No.4.

From there I just went out walking.  It was a glorious day. I had already done all the sightseeing in Almaty that I wanted to do, so I just walked leisurely.  The weather was perfect, and people were out strolling and packing the patios at the sidewalk cafés and restaurants.

just one of many inviting cafes. I went to this one.

I stopped and had multiple coffees and some pomegranate iced tea. 

more coffee at this side street café with outdoor swing seats

I roamed around and snapped pictures of street art murals.  Almaty isn’t super street arty, but there are some nice murals if you look for them. 

murals (The middle one reminds me of Weird Al. No idea who it actually is)

I browsed at an outdoor craft market and just watched the world go by. And then I got to the Opera House; a beautiful and grand yellow structure with fountains. To my luck, there was an opera that night.

Opera House

The show was “Abai”, a newish (2015) Kazakh opera about the life of poet Abai Qunanbaiuly (a Kazakh poet from the late 19th century), and it was starting at 6:00pm.  I bought a single ticket for the centre orchestra, which cost about $10 CDN.

It was a great treat. I was very happy that it was a Kazakh show, and the production was impressive.  Of course, I couldn’t understand a word of it, but I enjoyed the music, staging and costumes.  That said, I did leave at the second intermission – not because it wasn’t good – I had seen enough and wanted to enjoy a dinner on my last night in town.

I walked back to what had become my favourite eating/smoking restaurant patio in Almaty and had some Armenian flat breads filled with herbs and I smoked shisha until late into the night.

Shisha and snacks

It was a perfect end to my time in Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan.  In the morning I flew home.  This trip made me even more curious to visit Turkmenistan and Tajikistan and Afghanistan (the three (of seven) ‘stans I have left to visit.  Something to look forward to.

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Posted on 12 September 22
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Posted inAsia Central Asia 2022 Kazakhstan Kyrgyzstan

Almaty to Bishkek

Almaty and Bishkek are close together, making visiting both of them (and Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan together on one trip) temptingly easy. Driving is probably the easiest way, but if you don’t have a car or the ability to drive, you can fly (super short flight; you’d spend more time at the airport than you would in the air) or bus/taxi/walking.

In the past, and maybe even now, you could/can take a bus from Almaty to Bishkek right through. From what I hear, it is convenient and comfortable. When I went though they had temporarily stopped that service, so the option was to take a bus to the border, walk across, and then take another bus. That sounded fine. I took a taxi to the huge bus station (Sayran Station) where I discovered that I had just missed the bus and the next was not for about 4 hours. I wasn’t about to spend my time sitting around, so I walked outside to where a ground of men were gathered around cars and hoped that they were taxi drivers and that one of them spoke English. They were, and they didn’t. Through a few words of Russian and a series of pointing, smiling, and nodding gestures, and writing numbers on paper, we set on a price for one of them to drive me to the border at the town of Kordai.

Sayran bus station

These are shared taxis; you can wait for others to fill up the car and pay for your seat, which is a bargain, but if you’re impatient, you can pay for all of the seats and go. Still not that expensive. That’s what I did. It cost 20,000 Tenge and took about 2.5 hours.

mural spotted on the way out of Almaty

The ride was pleasant and took about 2.5 hours.  There wasn’t much to see. A few herds of cows and the odd monument to mark the turnoff to some other place.

No idea what this is for, but doesn’t it look cool?

cows!

Finally we got to the border crossing. A long line of cars and buses waited to cross, but I was walking, so I left my taxi behind, took my backpack and walked across the border, passing the cars and finding myself at the border without having to queue.

The border crossing was a wordless affair as the guard looked at me, looked at my passport, stamped it, and let me go.

me, walking across the border to Kyrgyzstan with my backpack, a bit bedraggled but happy

On the other side, I was descended on my predatory taxi drivers, charging too much for their services, but knowing they had me. I did overpay for the ride to my hostel, but it was still a bargain and I was not in the mood to stubbornly wait in the heat.

About 20 minutes later, my driver dropped me off at my hostel: USSR Hostel. In an old Soviet apartment block, now with a row of highly commercial shops at the bottom. USSR Hostel is really more of a shared apartment. The woman who owns it lives upstairs and the 2 bedrooms in this unit are rented out, with guests to share the washroom and kitchen facilities. My room was a cute little pink room with twin beds and a picture of Lenin on the wall. The other room had four guys from Pakistan. They didn’t speak a word of English but seemed nice and invited me to share in their dinner.

USSR Hostel exterior & interior

I liked this hostel. It was cheap, had a good location, and gave me a look inside one of the style of buildings I am always curious about. It was like staying in a museum or play acting what it was like to live in the USSR. It suited me just fine.

I’ll save my thoughts about Bishkek for the next post, but I’ll just say, if I’m ranking cities (I’m not and no one asked me to), Bishkek came out ahead of Almaty. More for later.

Read More about Almaty to Bishkek
Posted on 7 September 22
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Posted inBenin Togo West Africa Trip 2019

Benin border & Grand Popo

Crossing the Border from Togo to Benin

I left Lomé planning to head across the border from Togo to Benin. I wasn’t sure exactly how I would accomplish the transport, but as with everything else on this trip, it turned out to be far easier than I expected.  I walked from my hotel (Hôtel Résidence Océane) down the Rue de la Gare until I reached the end (at big street with the beach on the other side). I crossed and turned left and before I had time to fully take in the cluster of people and parked cars, numerous people approached me asking if I needed a shared taxi. I did, and took my place in the front seat of a beat-up station wagon, waiting for it to fill up so we could go.

There are many reasons for traveling light. In this case, I was thankful I could fit my backpack between my feet in the front seat or I might have had to pay for a second place in the car, as the hatchback was filled with boxes and a motorcycle.

As I waited for other passengers to be secured, one of the guys outside helping to fill the car took his t-shirt off and put it on the windshield in front of me to block the sun which was hot and otherwise shining directly in my face. He didn’t make a big deal of it and didn’t ask me for anything, he just did it. Another example of the generosity and kindness of the people I encountered.

After about 20 minutes we had the people we needed and we were off.  I forget the exact price, but it was trivial. Maybe about a dollar (cdn) for the hour – hour and half ride to the border. a few pics from the car window…

At the border we got out and went through the border on foot and I had to go through one check on the Togolese side and two on the Beninese side.  It was not always clear where I was meant to go, but all throughout the process a woman (traveling with her baby), who had been in the car with me, waited for me to complete each step and then pointed to where I would go next.

I had gotten my visa for Benin on line. I showed the border guard my paper while I was seated at his outdoor desk. He didn’t seem too interested in it. He asked me some basic questions (address in Benin, length of stay, etc.) and stamped my passport. He gave the visa paper back to me. (***Very important: keep that paper.  I nearly threw mine away, thinking I no longer needed it, but thankfully did not; I was required to show it again when leaving Benin.)

And I was in Benin. 

On the other side of the border I hopped into another shared taxi and said I needed to go to Grand Popo. A short ride later I was dropped off at a fork in the road and the driver pointed to the cluster of motos nearby. I gave one of the moto drivers the name of my hotel (the Auberge de Grand Popo) and I hopped on the back and he drove me the short distance to my hotel.

And that is another reason for traveling light: the ability to hop on and off motorcycles, which are often the only means of transport.

Grand Popo, Benin

There isn’t much to Grand Popo.  It is basically just a linear group of small hotels, eateries, and arty places along the beach. I decided it might be nice to spend one night along the sea in between cities.  I was right.

The Auberge de Grand Popo was a wonderful oasis. Right along the ocean it had a small, main building with a welcoming outdoor restaurant and bar, a small pool, lots of places to sit and stare at the sea, and rooms both in a large, two-storey building and a few cabins. I stayed in the larger building. It was rustic, but comfortable. A fan, a bed, an ocean breeze. The water wasn’t running, but they gave me a big container of water for bathing.

Auberge de Grand Popo

I spent one night – a little less than 24 hours – there.  It was very relaxing, though one night was enough. How much lying in hammocks, reading, and smoking cigars can one person take before becoming restless?

Chilling out in Grand Popo

The next morning, after breakfast, I walked back to the main road, snapping a few pictures of the “town” of Grand Popo along the way.

Grand Popo

At the main road, I held my hand out and within a couple of minutes a car pulled up, full of men listing to lively percussion music. I told them I wanted to go to Ouidah. I threw my bag in the trunk, squeezed in next to the three men in the backseat, and off we went to my next destination.

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Posted on 10 December 19
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About Wandering North

Welcome to Wandering North, where I have been blogging about my travels since 2007.

Dale Raven North

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