visa Archives - Wandering North

Eritrea Eritrea-Djibouti trip 2024

Back in Time in Asmara, Eritrea

When I told people I was going to Eritrea, all but the most die-hard travelers had not heard of it. Fair enough. Although Eritrea is famous for a long-standing conflict with Ethiopia, it is not well known to your average person. Eritrea occupies a sliver of land northeast of Ethiopia, just above Djibouti, and along the Red Sea.

Eritrea has been notoriously difficult to visit. You need a visa and someone on the ground to arrange it for you. At the time I went, you had to go as part of a tour, but the tour needn’t occupy all of your time. You needed a permit to leave Asmara (the capital). There is little to no wifi, no ATMs, credit cards are not accepted, and the country tightly controls the information coming in and out. It is often referred to as the “North Korea of Africa.” Not exactly inviting.

But I was so curious to visit this secretive nation that I planned a trip around it.

I booked a day tour and visa support through an Eritrean travel agency called Adulis Travel. They were very helpful. All I had to do was send them my info and agree to pay them in cash and they took care of my visa, hotel, and tour.

I planned to spend a few days in Asmara. One day on the tour and then two days to myself being gloriously offline; relaxing at cafes and taking in the architecture.

I arrived from Cairo (written about in my previous post). I arrived after midnight and my guide, Selihom, was waiting for me and thankfully so. With her help, I was able to get my visa in my passport in about 30 minutes. Others waited for more than an hour. I paid $70US cash for the visa and Selihom dropped me off at my hotel, promising to pick me up in a few hours for my day tour. Sigh. Another night of only a few hours’ sleep.

I stayed at the Crystal Hotel. There are other and cheaper options, but they are located farther from the centre. The Crystal Hotel was not cheap, but central and well staffed. My room was huge and devoid of any character.

My first glimpse of Asmara was that it was completely empty of people and quiet at this time of night. Also, the streets were immaculate. Well-paved and free of trash. It looked quaint and I could not wait to go see it tomorrow.

The next morning, Selihom picked me up with a driver. The tour would be a walking / driving affair. It was a good introduction to the city. Of course, were it not for the need to have a tour to get the visa, I would have visited on my own and that would have been fine, but we did see a lot on that first day and I got a good sense of what the place was like. What was allowed, what people’s lives were like, etc. As much as you can in a day.

We visited Medebar market – always a favourite stop of mine. We went to a local scrap area where people were taking discarded items and making them into new things. Old paint cans, scrap metal, barrels et cetera, all became something new. They told me this is because of their environmental concerns, and I am not saying that is untrue, but it is certainly also because they do not have a lot of money or access to world markets.

Medebar Market and a welder there with a homemade mask

We visited a video store and electronic repair shop. I know, but it was really interesting. Because there is little to no wifi in the country, people are not streaming their media; they are renting it. Ah, nostalgia. The guy fixing the TVs and phones said he could fix everything and did. Again, in a limited economy things must be reused, but it is also a good lesson to those that throw things away and replace them without a second thought.

We walked the streets of the downtown area. This was terrific. Asmara is full of 1940s architecture, and little has been upgraded. It is a UNESCO site for these reasons. Part of what makes it so appealing is that the Italians occupied Eritrea, built terrific theatres and cafes and then left and the country has been more or less frozen in time since then. Those cinemas and cafes are still in use. The coffees and atmospheres are wonderful. All of Asmara has this suspended in time feeling and in a lovely way. No billboards or flashing signs, people are not on their phones constantly (because no wifi), there are old cars, clean streets, and everything is quite well taken care of. It reminded me a little of Havana before they got wifi.

This was the atmosphere I wanted to enjoy for a few days.

The only downside is that Asmara has very strict smoking laws. No smoking indoors or on any patios. Period. And I only found one place (a courtyard at a hotel) that was willing to break the rules. That was a bit of a disappointment. I had imagined myself on patios with tiny Eritrean/Italian coffees, puffing on a Ramon Allones. Oh well. I still was able to smoke outside my hotel in the evening sitting on a chair they let me borrow.

We continue our tour by visiting the thing I was most excited to see: the Fiat Tagliero Building. The building was designed as a petrol station by Giuseppe Pettazzi and was built in 1938. It has an art deco/futurist style and is intended to look like an airplane. It is fabulous. It is no longer in use but is very much intact and you can enter and climb up to the roof for a different perspective. It was this building that first made me want to visit Asmara and it did not disappoint.

But there was more to come!

We visited the tank graveyard; a pretty field littered with piles of tanks, trucks, and other army vehicles. They remain there as a symbol of Eritrean independence and its victorious struggle against Ethiopia in the war of independence (1961 to 1991). The site is just out in the open but there is a cabal of taxi drivers who monitor the comings and goings and charge a small fee. It was super fun to climb on all the old wrecks and play with the tanks.

Amongst the things frozen in time in Asmara is the bowling alley. Built in the early 1950s for American using a base nearby, it exudes vintage charm. Vintage photos of long deceased leagues adorn the walls. Translucent red brick detail on the walls and lanes where the balls are returned and the pins reset by hand. By children. Of course, Selihom and I played a round. There was no one else bowling at the time, but the billiards tables next to the lanes were packed.

We stopped by a cemetery and walked the tombstones and then we had lunch.

Traditional Eritrean food is similar to Ethiopian and I had a platter of vegetarian treats served on spongy injera bread.

We made a final stop, which was up in the mountains for views of the valley and to try a local cactus fruit that is picked and sold by the local kids. Honestly the fruit was only so-so, but I had several of them.

It was a marvellous day. I learned a lot of about Eritrea, saw ‘the sites’, and enjoyed Selihom’s company. And then I was set free.

I went out for dinner – pizza (hey, it was an Italian colony) – and had a walk and a cigar before bed. I couldn’t wait for the next day of wandering around at my own pace and enjoying the city. Except…that didn’t happen.

Sorry for the cliffhanger, but read on, for the tale of how quickly things can change in Eritrea.

Africa Algeria Algiers-Nice-Athens 2024

Alighting in Algiers

I wanted to visit Algeria. The largest country in Africa, sitting on the north coast between Morocco and Tunisia, stretching from the Sea to the Sahel. It seems to have it all: stunning desert vistas, a vibrant capital, rich cultural traditions, ancient ruins…I was smitten. I particularly wanted to visit the south, with its isolated, ancient desert cities. I’ll tell you now that I did not get to the south. I still plan to visit, but it didn’t happen this time.

Logistics

Algeria is one of those countries that has been very difficult to visit. Visas required with invitation letters and mandatory tours, consulates that don’t respond, and expensive fees. This have been getting better in the past few years, but when I went it was still not super easy. To go, I needed a visa, which required sending my passport to Ottawa with an application, fees, my bank account statement, a letter from my employer, an itinerary, and an invitation from a tour company. I’ve never done a multi day tour and wasn’t interested in it, but I had heard that it might be possible to travel independently after I took a tour. I understand this is now possible; then it was not – or so I was told. There were a lot of competing stories at the time. The tour company said I could only get a visa for the length of my tour. I did ask how much a tour would be if it included a few days in the south, but it was prohibitively expensive. So I reached a compromise: I would only visit Algiers (this time) and worked out a short visit (so it wasn’t too costly) that gave me some time on my own as well as with a guide.

I had heard so many horror stories from people who sent their passport into the Algerian consulate in Ottawa and never got the visa, or that it took months; I don’t know how I got so lucky, but I mailed in my application on a Monday and had my passport back, with the visa, by Friday of the same week.

The arrangement I had was with the Fancy Yellow tour company. They arranged to pick me up at the airport and drive me back to the airport and I had a half day tour on my second day.

Overnight in Paris

I flew from Vancouver to Paris, where I spent the night; arriving late and leaving early. I stayed at the hotel Libertel Gare Du Nord Suede, which was cheap and serviceable, and went for a late night was around the area, just to stretch my legs and soak up something of being in Paris. I got a sandwich and had a small cigar in the chilly February air before going to sleep.

Arrival

The next morning, I flew to Algiers. No hassles at the airport. I had my visa. It was about 12:45. I met my driver, changed some money, and drove to the ABC Hotel. What it lacked in charm or character it made up for in being in a central location and being clean and functional with a nice free breakfast and helpful staff.

I immediately went out to explore.

Algiers

I walked all around the central part of Algiers, taking in the streets and walking past landmarks and impressive buildings. Algiers is lovely. Like a cleaner Paris in some areas. Gleaming white buildings with decorative balconies, flower sellers, tree-lined streets, statues, and squares. It was lovely and felt safe and, while I was dressed quite modestly anyway (all in black with a loose knee-length dress, sweater, blazer, scarf, tights, and combat boots), I didn’t feel like that was strictly necessary. Certainly there was no need to cover my head or wear an abaya.

Post Office

I took photos of the stunning mosques (they didn’t seem to be open for interior visits). I got a Mhajeb, also known as Mahdjoub (a delicious flatbread/crepe-like thing stuffed with, in this case, different greens) being sold from a window. A few men on the streets played the Algerian mandole for donations.

Most people in Algiers spoke Arabic, with some French, and Berber, with the written language of Tifinagh, a written form of Berber appearing on many signs. Tifinagh is a very intriguing looking language; almost like a language that would be engraved on some alien artifact.

Language barriers notwithstanding, it seemed like an easy place to visit. But I hadn’t been to the Casbah yet. The Casbah was the most appealing part of Algiers. An historic quarter of the city, rising up a hill, with the buildings mostly dating back to the 17^th and 18^th centuries. It is a UNESCO heritage site, but due to years of conflict, colonization, and neglect, parts of it are in very poor repair. Readings about the Casbah, most reports say it is dangerous; that tourists should not visit it without a guide. I didn’t let that stop me, and had no issues wandering the narrow, crooked alleys. I was a bit shy about taking pictures that day, not wanting to attract any hostility. (I made up for it the next day.)

Had this been my only visit to the Casbah, I would have been quite happy, but I admit that I had a better visit the next day with my guide, as there was so much history I didn’t know and areas I had missed.

But it was a perfect wander, and I finished it off with a coffee and a cigar on the excellent patio of Le Tantonville Grande Café d’Alger. Dating back to 1883, it has history and a perfect patio for people watching as you sip your coffee. It was, apparently popular with French bohemians, artists, writers, and philosophers, including Camus and Sartre. I felt rather sophisticated.

I went back to my room just after dark. It had been a long journey. I thoroughly enjoyed my first day in Algiers, but I will say that the city felt a bit quiet. It wasn’t busy or bustling, and just felt subdued. There is nothing wring with that, but I felt like it lacked excitement, but it made up for it in history and looks.

The next day I would have a guided tour and see much more of the city.

Africa Zimbabwe Zimbabwe-Zambia 2023

Visiting Harare

I arrived in Zimbabwe after a long flight from Vancouver via New York and Nairobi. I landed in Harare. The purpose of my trip to Zimbabwe it was to visit Victoria Falls, but there was no way I was going to skip visiting the capital on my first visit to Zimbabwe.

Arrival in Zimbabwe

I don’t think Zimbabwe way it needs much of an introduction, but just in case: it is in southern Africa, formerly Rhodesia. It became independent in 1980 and then from 1980 to 2017 was under authoritarian rule courtesy of Robert Mugabe. During this time there was massive inflation, human rights violations, and corruption. Things are better now. What Zimbabwe always had however is astonishing natural beauty and wildlife. The former being the reason for my visit.

Two fun facts about Zimbabwe.

It has more official languages than any other country (16), though English is most commonly spoken.
During the period of hyperinflation in around 2008-2009, purchasing power of the currency got so bad that the government had to issue notes as high as 100 trillion. Some of these are still floating around for purchase by tourists and nerds. I was not lucky enough to get a trillion note, but I did find some in the billions and millions.

Visas

As a Canadian, I was able to get a visa at the border. I knew I would be in and out of Zimbabwe a couple of times on my trip, so I tried to get a multi entry visa or at least a double entry visa, but this was denied and I was only given a single entry visa, which cost $75.00 US payable in US cash on the spot. It was effectively a cash grab and there was no formality and no application. (These is a thing called a Kaza Visa, which gives multiple entries to Zambia and Zimbabwe, but it is no longer given to Canadians since Canadians no longer need a visa to visit Zambia.)

Accommodations

I then took a taxi to my accommodation: the Bronte Garden Hotel. Honestly, the Bronte Garden Hotel is a little bit above my general budget, but it looked so charming and I felt that after such a long journey it would be amazing to stay in such lovely surroundings. The Bronte Garden Hotel, at least its main building, was built in 1911 as the house for some sort of industrial colonial bigwig. It was converted into a hotel about 50 years ago. It is a collection of two or three white two-story buildings set amidst lush tropical gardens. There are trees and flowers and pools, statues, and lovely seating areas set under the trees. A bar and a restaurant. It feels quite special.

The thing that put it within my reach price-wise is that while the main house is well outside of my normal budget, they have some more basic rooms in the houses that are much more affordable. These cheaper rooms are less fancy, but you still get access to all the same grounds and amenities, and that’s really the reason that I wanted to stay there. I enjoyed my time at the Bronte Garden Hotel immensely. The two nights that I was there, I spent my evenings in the garden with cigars (actually I also spent my mornings in the garden with cigars) and I had several conversations with other people staying at the hotel, most of whom were there on business from South Africa. It was just a lovely oasis.

me and my breakfast cigar at the Bronte Garden Hotel

Wandering in Harare

But of course, I didn’t come to Harare to sit in a hotel. I was in the city for a day and a half, two nights in total. The first day, I arrived at midday I didn’t do much of note. I essentially walked around the neighbourhood. Lovely wide streets with flowering orange and purple trees, apartment buildings and big houses. It was pleasant but I didn’t see anything too interesting.

An afternoon walk

The next day, my one full day in Harare, I really explored the city. I walked from my hotel to the National Botanic Garden (free), because it opened early. On the way I walked past a golf course and saw small antelope bounding across the greens. The gardens were beautiful, with different plants and landscaping suitable to different climates. It was massive, more than I could see in one visit, but I enjoyed a stroll around the grounds and chatted with a young man who was friendly and taking a detour on his way to school.

National Botanic Garden

From the garden I walked to a café called The Bottom Drawer. It was in a residential neighbourhood, basically operating out of a house. It was absolutely lovely, set in a garden with plants and trees and chickens running loose I sat on a comfy sofa on a covered veranda and had coffee and sandwich while I planned my next moves.

I had walked quite a far way from my hotel and in the opposite direction from where I wanted to go next, so I took a taxi back to my hotel and then walked from there.

a park near the National Gallery

I walked into the centre of town, passing along the way lively street markets and businesses, busy with traffic and commerce. I had wanted to visit the National Gallery and that was my first destination, however it was closed (Mondays). Fortunately, the Artopia Café in the in the gallery was open. A cool cafe with art and free wi-fi and coffee and lots of young people working on laptops. It was a good spot, especially after my long walk. Behind the gallery, accessible from the café was an outdoor sculpture gallery, so I got to see that, which I enjoyed.

Artopia Café and the Sculpture Garden

I could have gone to the Shona sculpture gallery, which is a popular tourist attraction, however my hotel had a lot of Shona sculptures in its gardens and I didn’t feel need to see more. But I did visit another gallery near the National Gallery about a block away, called the First Floor Gallery. It is on a higher floor of a commercial building and has almost no signage, but I found it. It is a small gallery (free) and with interesting contemporary art. Plus, it has access to the roof from which you can get a decent view of the streets below.

First Floor Gallery & and the view from the roof

Walking through central Harare was moderately interesting. It was pretty orderly and it lacked the chaos that I often enjoy in big African cities. I got in trouble only once for attempting to walk up to a statue that was accessible on a small bridge over an intersection. I got halfway there and the police on the street started shouting at me to turn around, so I did. I don’t know what the problem was it was completely accessible, but I didn’t argue.

*intersection with the off-limits statue*

I spent a couple hours just walking around Harare, checking out a market and some of the interesting architecture, and just looking around. Harare was interesting enough for a day, but I definitely didn’t feel the need to stay there for longer than that. For those of you that wonder about these things, it felt totally safe.

street markets

sights in Harare

I returned to the hotel for dinner, and cigars and chitchat in the gardens until it was time for bed. It might seem fast, but it was the perfect amount of time for me to visit Harare and I really enjoyed it. But on my third day I took off again for my second location in Zimbabwe: Victoria Falls (the town and the falls).

Africa South Sudan Sudan-South Sudan trip 2022

A Jaunt to Juba, South Sudan

I knew when I planned my trip to Sudan that would have to add on a trip to South Sudan. How could I miss a chance to visit the world’s youngest country? So I added a brief trip to Juba after I left Khartoum.

A Bit of Background

South Sudan was a part of Sudan (then the largest country in Africa) until 9 July 2011 when it became an independent nation and the 54^th country in Africa. Those sorts of shifts seldom happen peacefully, and South Sudan is no exception. In the end, there was a referendum to secede, but that was after decades of fighting for independence. Between the mid 1950s and 2005, the region that became South Sudan went through two civil wars and the unrest continued. The result was that there was no real infrastructure in the area of South Sudan and when it became its own country that was still the case, with factions on many of its provinces fighting each other. (As I always say when I try to sum up historical or political events, this is Wandering North, not Poli Sci North, so if you want a proper account of South Sudanese independence and politics, look elsewhere.)

South Sudan is not known for a lot of things, but what it is known for often is poverty. It is always on the UN list of least developed countries. Today South Sudan does get a share of the money from the oil reserves located in its borders, but it is Sudan that gets the bulk of it. There is not much else in terms of industry or resources. Most people live in rural areas and on less than a dollar a day.

Life in South Sudan is hard. It has the lowest rate of literacy in the world. It has poor access to health services, nutritious food, clean water, etc. The life expectancy is about 55 years, making me a senior citizen.

The other thing South Sudan is known for is violence. Canada advises not to go there under any circumstances due to risks of violence and armed conflict. It is regularly on lists of the ‘most dangerous countries’. But that sort of thing has never stopped me. So I booked my ticket and applied for my visa.

*Canada’s travel warning for South Sudan when I went*

Getting In

I did need a visa to go to South Sudan but, remarkably, they have an e-visa system. You do the paperwork and apply and pay online and get your stamp at the border. It is very expensive, but not difficult. (As least for me. I’m Canadian. Other passports may have different experiences.)

I flew from Khartoum to Juba, the capital of South Sudan, on a direct flight. The border was not a big deal. A bit intimidating, but no hassles.

Due to the lack of infrastructure in South Sudan, there is no public transport to the airport, so I arranged to have my hotel pick me up, and it was comforting to see my name “Mr. North” on a sign at arrivals. I got into a nice SUV and was driven, like a dignitary, to my accommodations: the Acacia Village.

Accommodations

South Sudan is poor, but it is not inexpensive to visit. There are lots of hotels and drivers and some restaurants that cater towards people working for aid organizations and NGOs, like the UN. But there is no budget traveller level of services. Of the available accommodations that looked remotely appealing (there are no hostels or cute backpacker spots), Acacia Village was by far the nicest. It is a lovely spot, just a bit outside of Juba’s city centre, filled with trees and cabins surrounding a pool, and an outdoor bar/restaurant. The perfect place to spend time in charming comfort. Visually, it met all my needs. It was just as pretty as the pictures. I loved my cabin, taking a morning dip in the pool, and having evening cigars in the courtyard. But it wasn’t cheap, and it lacked the normal services I thought they should have provided (like daily housekeeping or being able to tell me where to change money). I found that a little annoying. On my first day I was entirely without cash because they couldn’t (or wouldn’t) tell me where I could exchange some bills. Nevertheless, it was lovely, and I would stay there again.

Wandering Solo in Juba

Day one I had no plans except to see what I could see of Juba on my own. The challenges here were that walking along in Juba is strongly advised against due to it being unsafe, and I had no local money, and was not about to walk around and ask people where I could change my cash. (Why not just wear a “rob me” t-shirt?) But I did go out and walk around.

I left the Acacia Village compound. Two sets of gates with armed guards and high walls with razor wire were all that separated me from the outside world. I was a little intimidated by that, but once I was outside, it felt…fine. I am not saying it was safe and I was certainly on guard, but during the day, I felt safe.

*the Acacia Village gates (taken the next day from a car)*

I attracted a lot of attention as I strolled around, ghostly white and dressed in black. Tattoos peeking out. I was a curiosity. But people were nice. Lots of people said hello and asked me how I was. A reasonable mix of smiles and stares. I can’t blame the people who just stared. I may have actually been an idiot for walking around on my own.

*A selfie i snapped as i stepped out in to Juba*

I think the reason it is considered unsafe on the streets is just that people are so poor. And there is a real problem with men getting very drunk on dangerous homemade alcohol and going kind of nuts. Could I even blame someone for wanting to rob me, when they have nothing? Not really, but I didn’t want to take that chance, so I took nothing with me but my cell phone, some cigarillos, and a lighter.

Juba is not an attractive city. Unlike most capitals, it does not have centuries of being a capital city. It is brand new and wasn’t much of city to begin with. There are no museums, galleries, or stately capital buildings, or picturesque anything. Just streets and low rise, quickly constructed buildings. Aside from the few hotels catering to ex-pats, there is really nothing nice or new about it. But it has an energy. The streets were busy; lots of people out playing soccer, riding and washing motorcycles, modest shops, and houses.

The thing that really stood out was how young everyone was. The average age in South Sudan ins 18.6 years (and the median age is 16.7 years). Tons of young-looking men were everywhere. And they looked pretty cool. Especially the ones that were very into their motorbikes. Unlike in Sudan, in South Sudan most people are Christian or followers of animist religions, so gone were the modest robes and head scarves; most people here were dressed in a more western style. Skinny jeans and t-shirt was a common outfit for the young guys in Juba.

I wish I had more or better pictures, but photography is not allowed. There are, I would find out the next day, some places where it is unofficially allowed, but I didn’t know that on day one, so I just snapped a few quick pictures as i strolled.

And that is basically all I did on day one. I just got a feel for the place and got over the nervousness of wandering solo.

I spent the evening, as planned, at the Acacia Village, with a couple of cigars and dinner.

The next day I had arranged for a driver to allow me to see a little more than I could on my own, which would include the proper ‘sights’ of Juba.

Africa Sudan Sudan-South Sudan trip 2022

A trip to Sudan

Plans

I had wanted to go to Sudan as soon as I read about it (beyond what I saw in the news). Looking past the corruption, instability, poverty, and violence, I learned that it was a country of stunning deserts and desolate antiquities. Any travel article about Sudan will tell you that it has more pyramids than Egypt; that’s true, but there is a lot more to it than that. I was only there for a week and just around Khartoum, but the little bit I saw I loved and cannot stop thinking about.

I planned to go to Sudan in 2020. We know how that turned out. When I returned to international travel in 2021, I planned to go at the end of that year, but in October 2021 the government was overthrown by a coup, so I put off the trip again. November of 2022 I finally got there. The last of my covid-delayed trips to be carried out.

A smidgen of history

Sudan is a country of superlatives. It is a massive country (it was the biggest in Africa until South Sudan split off in 2011). It has the most pyramids. Its history dates back to the Pharaohs (about 2500 BC). It had a series of kingdoms (Kerma, New Egyptian, Kush, Nubian), was settled by Arab nomads, and then from about the 16^th century, it was dominated by encroaching forces (including Darfur, Ottoman, and Egyptian). In the first half of the 20^th century, Sudan was governed / occupied by the British and the Egyptians, until finally gaining independence on 1 January 1956. I know that is like 4.5 thousand years of history summed up in a paragraph, but the point is: Sudan is big, and old, and because of its location was a hub for trade, transport, and invasion, which has led to it being a culturally rich and interesting country today.

Since independence, things haven’t been easy for Sudan. Its territory has been fractured between factions fighting for independence or control. From 1989-2019 the country was run by a military dictatorship led by Omar al-Bashir that was accused from everything from genocide in Darfur to supporting terrorism. Al-Bashir was overthrown in April 2019. He is, as of the date of writing this, on trial and in prison.

Since the military coup, things in Sudan are…well, it depends on who you ask. Some people I talked to said it is better (more stable, less violent), others said it is worse (more corrupt, more expensive). Right now, the country is led by two military groups reluctantly sharing power. They have passed a constitution and are in a transitional period. There are multiple police and military forces each of which seems fairly corrupt and fond of patrolling in costume-y uniforms and with guns, or lounging on tanks. Weekly protests in Khartoum were ongoing when I was there. No one I spoke to was optimistic.

[***April 2023 Update: on 15 April 2023, the two military groups sharing power entered into an armed conflict with guns, missiles, bombs, and planes being deployed. The airport was seized and shut down, electricity was lost, and civilians are being killed. People are running out of food and water and medical supplies/help, and are risking their lives to get the things they need or to escape out of the country. So all of the people I met who live there have had their lives and communities shattered. Some of them I am in touch with and some not. It’s very sad to think of this city and people suffering.***]

When I was there in November 2022, the Canadian government advised against all “non-essential” travel there and particularly against “all” travel to Khartoum due to threats of violence and terrorism. Administrative hassles and military presence aside, none of these was much of a concern to me. The parts of Sudan that I saw were nothing short of wonderful. Kind people, interesting sights, a relaxed vibe, and some of the best coffee I have had anywhere.

*Canadian advisory for Sudan in November 2022*

Visas and Requirements

Canadians need a visa to visit Sudan. I applied through the consulate in Ottawa, meticulously sending in all the paperwork, photos, and fees. The processing took 6 weeks. Despite there being no requirement for it, the consulate would not issue my visa unless I booked a tour. Not just any tour, but with one particular tour company in Sudan and I had to tell them that the Consulate in Ottawa referred me. So I begrudgingly booked an expensive day trip from Khartoum to the Pyramids at Meroe. (I had originally planned to hitchhike.) It was such an obvious scam/kick back, but what was I to do? It was annoying, but as soon as I had my passport back with the visa in place, I didn’t care.

Fun Facts

Sudan is right below Egypt, with the Nile running through it. The capital is Khartoum. (Not to belittle it, but it is a name that just sounded to appealingly exotic to me.) About 49 million people live there; mostly Sudanese Arabs, but there are over 500 ethic groups throughout the country. People mostly speak Arabic. The median age is just over 18. (Compare that to Canada where it is just over 41.) It is a Muslim country but not as rigid or restrictive feeling as some countries I have visited. Officially alcohol is not allowed, but there seemed to be lots in supply if you know where to look. About half the population lives in poverty. A lot of that sounds bad, but it has the pyramids, vast and diverse natural environments and wildlife, and some of the nicest people I have met.

This post is already long enough so I will start the actual experience of my visit in another post, but I’ll say here that I loved Sudan. I am writing this well after the fact, and I am still thinking about it and, even though I am committed to travelling to new-to-me countries, I want to go back someday.

Around the World 2022 Asia Bangladesh Saudi Arabia Singapore

Planning for a short ’round the world trip

Trying to decide where to travel next is not a science for me. I don’t have a process or a list of criteria. A place will just start to become interesting to me through something I read or saw, and usually it will be a place that is far away geographically and culturally from the last place I went. So I can’t say why exactly, but I decided I wanted to visit Dhaka, Bangladesh. It had been on my radar for a while. It looked crowded and exciting and intense. I decided to go.

Bangladesh is very far from Vancouver. Multiple stops would be required and when I was doing my flight research, I saw that a number of the flights went through Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, somewhere else I had never been. I also found that several of the flights back to Vancouver took me through east Asia, and many through Singapore, another new-to-me destination.

This is how my ‘round the world’ flight itinerary was built. I decided to spend two full days in Jeddah, four full days in Dhaka, and two full days in Singapore: starting in and returning to Vancouver. (Plus making connections in London, Cairo, and Tokyo.) It seemed like a great opportunity to see three places in one go and circle the globe in one trip. Saying ‘yes’ was an easy decision.

Of course, a trip like that requires a bit of planning. I worked out the flights (all separate; not a ‘round the world’ ticket) and then needed to sort the visas. The visa for Saudi Arabia was easy to get: an expensive and instantaneous e-visa. The visa for Bangladesh was a different story, being one that required an application to be made by mail or in person with loads of supporting documents and a fee. It also required several follow ups by email and several recitations by email of things already provided in the application. It always amazes me when countries that have very low levels of interest from tourists make it exceedingly difficult to visit. Singapore welcomed me without hassle.

I booked my accommodations. A proper hotel in Jeddah, a cute guest house in Dhaka, and a capsule hostel in Singapore.

I devoured guidebooks and blog posts, studied my maps, and tried to memorize some basic phrases (many of which I quickly forgot).

I packed my backpack with two outfits suitable for all three destinations, plus an abaya for Saudi Arabia, and cigars to last the trip.

It came together quickly. I was so excited. All around the world to visit three very different destinations.

I don’t often write planning posts, but this was an ambitious itinerary and I have gotten a lot of questions about how I picked the countries and why I chose them, about the visas and the packing. So there you have it.

Onward to Jeddah, Saudi Arabia.

Asia Iraq Iraqi Kurdistan/Albania trip 2022 Kurdistan

Arrival in Iraqi Kurdistan

I decided to go to Iraqi Kurdistan in Northern Iraq. As with so many of my trips, I didn’t really have a good reason; just an interest and a winnowing down of alternative destinations based on weather, or covid restrictions, or where I went last. So I booked myself a flight to Erbil (also spelled Irbil or called Hawler).

Let’s get this out of the way right off the top: Iraq / Kurdistan / Iraqi Kurdistan? What I am I talking about? Iraq, as we all know, is a country. A high profile one. The capital is Baghdad. It is famous for, amongst other things, Saddam Hussein and Aladdin. That’s straightforward. Where things get murky is the Northern bit, which is where I went. I’m not going o attempt to break down the history of the Kurds or Iraq or the Middle East generally, but suffice it to say that the northern part of the country of Iraq is under control of the Kurds, which is why it is often called Kurdistan. Though Kurdistan also broadly refers to lands in several countries, like Iran and Turkey, where many Kurdish people live.

*Map of Kuridstan – where the Kurdish people traditionally and predominantly live*

The northern, Kurdish part of Iraq has its own government, flag, laws, visa system, etc…but it isn’t technically its own country.(At least not in the narrow, UN-defined definition of country.)This is always a treacherous topic and places like Scotland, Palestine, Tibet, Taiwan, and Kurdistan are amongst those places where statehood is…a matter of some debate. I’m not going to go down that path. According to the map and the stamp in my passport, the currency in my wallet, and the address of my hotel, etc, I was in Iraq, but I know that merely calling it Iraq is not entirely accurate and is also disrespectful to the Kurdish people, who have fought for their independence, so I have been saying I was in Iraqi Kurdistan or Northern Iraq, depending on my audience and how comfortable they are with geography and history.

Erbil is the capital of Iraqi Kurdistan and one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. (You will see it on the map above near Mosul.) As far as human civilization, it dates back to about 5,000 BCE. Over the centuries it has been a part of a long list of empires from the Assyrians to the Ottomans. It is all very interesting, but this isn’t ‘Wandering Encyclopedia Britannica’, so for a proper history, you should probably read a book, but it is worth looking into, even if all you is read the history section of an Iraq travel book.

People speak Kurdish there, but may also speak Arabic. It is a Muslim part of the world. It is in a mountainous region and in fact the month before I arrived, they had snow. So this is not the rolling desert terrain you might be imaging. I was there in February. It was cool in the evening and pleasantly warm in the day. A lot of the trees were still waiting for their spring greenery and there was not a lot of flowers, but there was some evergreen plants and grasses around. It would probably be more pretty in the Summer, but also brutally hot. I thought it was perfect.

I learned a few words and phrases in Kurdish, which proved to be mostly helpful in impressing people with my efforts. Those that spoke English were happy to do so, and with those that did not, I relied on my excellent combination of charades and smiling.

I landed at the airport, flashed my PCR test and vaccination status (the former was required the latter was not, which was different from what was on the government website) and got a visa on arrival, which is available to people from many countries, including Canada. The visa required no paperwork, but does demand a fee of $70 or $75 US (it seems to fluctuate). No questions asked, I breezed through. I changed some money to Iraqi Dinars. And I was in Iraqi Kurdistan.

The sun was just setting as I took a taxi into the city. It wasn’t immediately impressive, but nor was it off-putting.

I was staying at the Erbil View Hotel. Not a bargain, but one of the better options available. Erbil does not have hostels. It does have some budget hotels in the centre, but you can’t book them online and even in walking around, none of them were immediately apparent. So I guess if you are really on a budget, the thing to do would be to book a first night at a pricier hotel and then look for a cheaper option. I stayed put. The reception staff (who were lovely) upgraded me to a suite that was easily twice the size of my apartment and very comfortable. And…smoking was allowed!

But I didn’t have time to lounge in my room. I set out for the centre. It was dark but I had figured out my walking route ahead of time. (Time studying maps ahead of time always pays off.) In about 10 minutes I was at the centre, in between the citadel and the bazaar, surrounded by tons of people enjoying the evening in the square.

Everything was bustling. Families and friends out, drinking tea, people walked around selling nuts and fruits and cotton candy and balloons. It had a festive air. Not what you think of when you imagine Iraq – even Iraqi Kurdistan – after dark.

I did sort of a loop around, dazzled by how bright and colorful everything seemed. (Admittedly I was probably delirious from that cocktail of jet lag and excitement.)

I was starving but realized pretty quickly that none of the restaurants had vegetarian food. One man said he could barbeque me some tomatoes, but I passed. Fortunately, the streets radiating out from the bazaar were lined with street food vendors. Most of it was meat, but there was also falafel. Joy! Perfectly fresh falafel made for throngs of hungry people who crowded around. It was served in soft, pointy pita-style bread and covered with pickled vegetables and spicy yellow sauce. And it was about 60 cents. Canadian.

Satiated, and not ready to return to my room, I walked to the most appealing place: a 2^nd floor patio decked out with Christmas lights and producing plumes of fruity smoke. Shisha and falafel, the perfect combination.

It was packed, but I found a seat and puffed away on a lemon mint shisha combo, while sipping on lemonade and snacking on pistachios and cashews. It was mostly young, local people. I didn’t see any other tourists (nor did I for the rest of the trip.) I was content. I had made it and it was off to a good start.

I walked a slightly different path back to my hotel and slept, excited for the next day when I could really explore. (There will be more photos on the next post. Most of the ones on this first night came out dark and blurry. What can I say? It was dark and I was excited.)

Asia Oman Pakistan/Oman trip 2020

Muscat, Oman

I decided I wanted to go to Lahore, Pakistan, for no particular reason, but for reasons I will deal with in my post on Lahore. The flights from Vancouver to Lahore all required layovers in London, England and Muscat, Oman, so I thought this would be an excellent opportunity to see something of Oman. I booked a round-trip ticket from Vancouver to London, a one-way ticket to Muscat, a one-way ticket to Lahore, and a one-way ticket from Lahore to London. Not the cheapest way to do things, but I was able to maximize my sights in a nine day trip.

Oman was 100% off my radar until a few years ago when I started looking into it and since then I have been seeing more and more of its as a travel destination. It is on the tip of the Arabian peninsula, next to Yemen and sharing borders with Saudi Arabia and the UAE.

It is a rich country (oil), an Islamic monarchy, Arabic speaking nation (though many people in the tourist industries spoke English). It is known mostly for its beautiful deserts and the architecture of Muscat, which has resisted the urge to build space-age skyscrapers and has preserved its traditional styles.

I did need a visa for Oman, but it was an easy process. Online, not too expensive, and no onerous requirements. I was approved almost immediately and given a paper to show to immigration on arrival. Landing at the airport, there was a huge queue of people waiting to go through immigration. The estimate was about 2 hours. This did not work for me, as it was 7 am and I wanted to get to the Grand Mosque before to it closed to non-Muslims at 11am. Wonderfully, there was an express immigration line that was open to anyone who was willing to pay 8 Omani Rial (OMR). This is not cheap, but it was worth every penny in my opinion. Minutes later I was walking to the taxi rank.

Here is the thing that is not great about Muscat: The city and the things a tourist is going to want to see is quite spread out. There is no metro. There are buses, which are pretty cheap and quite good, but the routes are seldom direct, so they are not fast. This means that if you are short on time, taxis are necessary and they are not cheap. My taxi from the airport to my hotel in Muttrah was about $36 CDN.

Muscat has all of the comforts you could want and there are very posh neighbourhoods. There are gorgeous mosques everywhere. Whenever I was in a taxi, I ached to photograph the delicate, colorful mosques that zipped by the window. Many of them built by rich men looking for prestige and religious favour.

I was staying in Muttrah, which was a great choice. I stayed at the Nassem Hotel, which is old and uninspired, but it is in an incredible location and it is cheap (by Muscat standards). I think I paid $40CDN per night for a private room and bathroom. Breakfast extra. Muttrah is right along the water. My hotel was just across the street from the famed Corniche (the long, curved walkway along the water) a one-minute walk from the busy fish market and a few minutes from the Muttrah Souq (the traditional, though now slightly touristy bazaar).

I checked into my hotel and changed into some clothing I felt was suitable for Oman – a long skirt and a long sleeved, high-necked shirt. I will say that I saw a lot of tourists dressed a lot more revealingly, but they were made to rent clothes to cover up with before entering the Grand Mosque, though no one on the streets seemed scandalized. I think it is always best to be more respectful.

*women and men on the streets of Muscat*

As was explained to my by a taxi driver, by law, women and men must each wear long, loose garments. For men it is a long, plain gown called a dishdasha, with a short, dangling braid at the collar that they soak in perfume. Men generally wear embroidered hats shaped a bit like a fez, but without the tassel. Women wear a long dress over loose trousers and a headscarf. For work, men must wear white and women black.

There are a lot of unusual laws in Oman. For example, it is against the law to yell or express anger of any sort in public. You are not permitted to have a dirty car. Sex before marriage is outlawed. I imagine there are many more, judging by how clean and orderly the country seemed.

The first thing I did was hop back in a taxi and head to the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque. The Mosque is free, but the taxi was pricey. It was worth it though, as the Mosque is stunning. It is new, being built from 1994-2000 and is an achievement. A huge structure in gleaming white marble, with a labyrinth of courtyards, leading to prayer halls, domes, minarets, and gardens.

The chandelier in the main (men’s) prayer room is the largest in the world, weighing 8.5 tons. The carpet in that room was the largest in the world (it took over 4 years to weave by hand) but now is the 2^nd largest). It is all quite beautiful.

From there, I bused back to Muttrah.

I walked to the fish market and looked around.

I walked along the Corniche, taking pictures of the pretty buildings and people walking. In the distance, forts perched on the cliffs, looking out at the sea. In the harbor, two big cruise shipped were docked, their passengers out to see the city for the day.

I had a juice by the Souq before continuing to walk along the water, past yet more forts, fountains, and rocky cliffs to the area called Old Muscat.

In Old Muscat there is a big museum and other smaller sights, but I wanted to see the Al-Alam palace. You can’t go inside, but it is still a sight to behold, with its curved, colorful columns, flanked with beautiful gardens on the back and facing the sea at the front.

Things were a little subdued in Muscat, as the Sultan (Sultan Qaboos) had died the month before and the country was in an official 40 day mourning period. The Sultan was beloved. He was a leader of peace and he (unlike his father) shared the wealth of the country with the people, such that every person in Oman gets free land, free education, free healthcare. There is a high standard of living. So when the Sultan died, people were sad. During this period of official mourning the theatres and cinemas were dark, no music was allowed in public, including on the radio, and I believe the clubs (such as they are) were closed. None of this affected me too much, but I will say that everything seemed quiet; like a Sunday.

I wandered around Old Muscat, chatting with a few people, hearing about Oman and the Sultan mostly.

Finally, I caught a taxi back to Muttrah, where I looked around the Souq and had dinner. I had wanted to have some shisha, but there are, weirdly, no shisha places in Muttrah. No one was sure why, but they do not seem to be allowed in that area. They are in abundance elsewhere.

So I just walked around a bit more, loving the clusters of all-white, low buildings set against a rocky background. As it got dark, the lights along the Corniche were beautiful.

I had these plans of staying up later or going out for a cigar, but after dinner I went back to my room, flipped through the room service menu (camel burger!) and crashed early. It was just as well, as I had a full schedule the next day with a trip to the desert.

Africa Côte d'Ivoire West Africa Trip 2019

Layover in Côte d’Ivoire

I left Cotonou, Benin to return to Accra, Ghana. The flight took me through C’ôte d’Ivoire. I had an 8 hour layover, I was not going to squander that time at the airport. I had read that technically it is possible in 8 hours to visit something of Abidjan, but the traffic could be unpredictably slow, so I decided to visit Grand-Bassam, which is nearer to the airport and much much smaller.

To leave the airport I needed a visa. I had applied for a visa online ahead of time. At the airport I went to a small room where they processed my visa before going through immigration. The process took about an hour. There is no luggage storage at the airport, so I took my backpack with me and caught a taxi to Grand-Bassam.

The good things about going to Grand-Bassam are that it is not too far from the airport, it is beautiful, it is fairly small, and good for exploring in a short time. The downside is that I do feel like missed out seeing the bustle of the capital.

I went to the centre of what is a narrow peninsula, in front of a museum. I planned to visit the museum but it was closed. There was, however, a dance performance happening. I crowded in with the other people and watched the drummers and scene after scene of dancers, including one which involved what looked like a large pillow that danced around until it was finally tamed. It was a nice, unexpected bonus.

Basically, I spent the rest of my layover walking and taking in the beautiful, sometimes abandoned buildings, surrounded by vines and flowers.

I stopped by some art studios and looked at the sea, but finally I was tired of walking with my backpack so I settled into a beach-side restaurant where I had lunch and a cigar before heading back to the airport.

The layover didn’t leave me feeling like I have seen much of Côte d’Ivoire, so I will have to return, but Grand-Bassam was a wonderful place to spend a layover.

From Grand-Bassam I returned to Accra, Ghana where I spent one final, mellow night and day before flying home.

Benin Togo West Africa Trip 2019

Benin border & Grand Popo

Crossing the Border from Togo to Benin

I left Lomé planning to head across the border from Togo to Benin. I wasn’t sure exactly how I would accomplish the transport, but as with everything else on this trip, it turned out to be far easier than I expected. I walked from my hotel (Hôtel Résidence Océane) down the Rue de la Gare until I reached the end (at big street with the beach on the other side). I crossed and turned left and before I had time to fully take in the cluster of people and parked cars, numerous people approached me asking if I needed a shared taxi. I did, and took my place in the front seat of a beat-up station wagon, waiting for it to fill up so we could go.

There are many reasons for traveling light. In this case, I was thankful I could fit my backpack between my feet in the front seat or I might have had to pay for a second place in the car, as the hatchback was filled with boxes and a motorcycle.

As I waited for other passengers to be secured, one of the guys outside helping to fill the car took his t-shirt off and put it on the windshield in front of me to block the sun which was hot and otherwise shining directly in my face. He didn’t make a big deal of it and didn’t ask me for anything, he just did it. Another example of the generosity and kindness of the people I encountered.

After about 20 minutes we had the people we needed and we were off. I forget the exact price, but it was trivial. Maybe about a dollar (cdn) for the hour – hour and half ride to the border. a few pics from the car window…

At the border we got out and went through the border on foot and I had to go through one check on the Togolese side and two on the Beninese side. It was not always clear where I was meant to go, but all throughout the process a woman (traveling with her baby), who had been in the car with me, waited for me to complete each step and then pointed to where I would go next.

I had gotten my visa for Benin on line. I showed the border guard my paper while I was seated at his outdoor desk. He didn’t seem too interested in it. He asked me some basic questions (address in Benin, length of stay, etc.) and stamped my passport. He gave the visa paper back to me. (***Very important: keep that paper. I nearly threw mine away, thinking I no longer needed it, but thankfully did not; I was required to show it again when leaving Benin.)

And I was in Benin.

On the other side of the border I hopped into another shared taxi and said I needed to go to Grand Popo. A short ride later I was dropped off at a fork in the road and the driver pointed to the cluster of motos nearby. I gave one of the moto drivers the name of my hotel (the Auberge de Grand Popo) and I hopped on the back and he drove me the short distance to my hotel.

And that is another reason for traveling light: the ability to hop on and off motorcycles, which are often the only means of transport.

Grand Popo, Benin

There isn’t much to Grand Popo. It is basically just a linear group of small hotels, eateries, and arty places along the beach. I decided it might be nice to spend one night along the sea in between cities. I was right.

The Auberge de Grand Popo was a wonderful oasis. Right along the ocean it had a small, main building with a welcoming outdoor restaurant and bar, a small pool, lots of places to sit and stare at the sea, and rooms both in a large, two-storey building and a few cabins. I stayed in the larger building. It was rustic, but comfortable. A fan, a bed, an ocean breeze. The water wasn’t running, but they gave me a big container of water for bathing.

I spent one night – a little less than 24 hours – there. It was very relaxing, though one night was enough. How much lying in hammocks, reading, and smoking cigars can one person take before becoming restless?

The next morning, after breakfast, I walked back to the main road, snapping a few pictures of the “town” of Grand Popo along the way.

At the main road, I held my hand out and within a couple of minutes a car pulled up, full of men listing to lively percussion music. I told them I wanted to go to Ouidah. I threw my bag in the trunk, squeezed in next to the three men in the backseat, and off we went to my next destination.

Tag: visa

Logistics

Overnight in Paris

Arrival

Algiers

Arrival in Zimbabwe

Visas

Accommodations

Wandering in Harare

A Bit of Background

Getting In

Accommodations

Wandering Solo in Juba

Plans

A smidgen of history

Visas and Requirements

Fun Facts

Crossing the Border from Togo to Benin

Grand Popo, Benin