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Memphis long weekend 2024 USA

8 things I loved about Memphis (and 2 I didn’t)

Down in Memphis

I had a long weekend at the end of June. It came about a month after my trip to Europe that took me to Andorra and Lithuania, amongst other places. I wasn’t supposed to go away, but I had the yearning to travel. I didn’t think that I could wait until my next planned trip at the end of July, so I looked for a cheap trip for the long weekend. An inexpensive flight to Memphis, Tennessee was the winner and with about a week’s planning, I was Memphis bound.

I had not been to Tennessee before, but I wanted to go. I wanted to see Graceland and I was generally curious.

The flight to Memphis was cheap, but the hotels were not so. Hotels in the centre were all pricey (especially when paying with my meagre Canadian dollars) but I would only be there for three nights, so I booked the best of the lower-priced options (and dismissing from contention and of the budget motels the reviews of which were full of stories of late night parking lot gun play). A funky little Moxy Marriot that had pinball machines, was walkable to everything, and had a trolley stop out front.

I took the Friday off work and left Thursday night, which meant that I arrived in Memphis Friday morning and I left early Monday morning. Three terrific days. I haven’t stopped talking about how much I loved Memphis. Here’s why…

Music

If my Memphis famous for anything, it’s for music. It has a pretty convincing claim to being the “birthplace of rock’n’roll and the home of the blues.” Even aside from the fact that Elvis is from Tupelo, Mississippi, not far away ,and built Graceland in Memphis, it seems that pretty much every early rock performer got their start in Memphis. The town is filled with monuments and memorials and markers for these early rock pioneers.

As someone who grew up loving 1950s rock music I was very excited about this. Of course I went to Graceland (more about that later), but I was very excited to visit Sun Records (aka Sun Studio), the original record label and recording studio where artists including Elvis Presley, Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis, Carl Perkins, and Roy Orbison recorded. You can visit the actual recording studio which is connected to a building next to it that has a good collection of memorabilia and information. It’s not possible to visit Sun Records without a tour, and you need to book ahead, but the tour is excellent. Even if you don’t know a lot about early rock music, it gives you a lot of context, and it ends in the place where all these amazing records were made. I’m not going to lie; I got a little emotional standing in the place where Elvis and Jerry Lee Lewis and the like recorded their early records.

You could also do a similar tour of Stax Records which recorded more of the soul artists from Memphis, including personal favourite Otis Redding. I didn’t have enough time to get to Stax, which is just one of the reasons why I wish that I had had four days in Memphis instead of three.

But the music is not just in the history books and museums in Memphis, it is alive and well in the city today. Beale Street, which calls itself the Home of the Blues, is a pedestrianized street lined with live music venues and bars. You need to show ID to enter the street, as police control either end, but once you’re in, you can get a drink and wander around from venue to venue, and each venue has terrific music. Mostly blues with some R&B and funk. It’s just terrific. Most of the places didn’t even have a cover so you could just wander in and order a drink and watch for a bit. Best of all for me, many of the places allowed smoking. Some of them only allowed smoking of cigarettes not cigars, but that’s OK, I still managed to smoke a cigar indoors in a couple of places on the patio or a couple of others, but the idea that I could smoke a cigar while watching excellent live Blues music was incredible.

And it wasn’t just on Beale Street; there was live music throughout the city, with buskers and music at lots of other scattered venues.

On Sundays, you can take in a service at the Full Gospel Tabernacle Church and, if you are lucky, the founder of the church, none other than soul legend Al Green will be there preaching and singing.

If that isn’t enough proof of Memphis’ musical importance, there are over 1000 recorded songs with lyrics about Memphis.

Cigars

Memphis was a tremendous cigar city. There aren’t an abundance of cigar stores and lounges, but there are good cigar stores and lounges. What makes it a great cigar city is the combination of people in the lounges and the loose smoking laws. I already mentioned how I was able to smoke indoors at one place while watching live music (incredible), but I spent a lot of time smoking at lounges. On my first day I went to the Tinderbox on South Main Street, which had a great selection of cigars. I bought a bunch and chatted with the guys working there before taking a seat in the lounge. It was one of those lounges that wasn’t super fancy but was comfortable and had a collection of guys who were all regulars. Sometimes in those situations you can feel like the outsider, but in this place, everybody was chatting with me and were so friendly. One of them even asked me what I was doing later. I said I didn’t have any definitive plans, and he said, well why don’t you come back in the evening because when the store closes they bring their chairs and sit out in front of the Tinderbox smoking and drinking. I did go back later that night and I hung out with them; some of the guys had met earlier in the day and some new guys. They had folding chairs and rocking chairs, a portable speaker playing music, and bottles and bottles of whiskey and bourbon. They were so welcoming. I felt like I instantly had a group of buddies to smoke with.

Cigar prices were very good in Memphis. Much cheaper than in many other states. Of course there are no Cubans, but there is an excellent selection of non-Cubans.

I also went to another lounge called the Havana Mix, which was a fancier lounge, but at the time that I went it was a little bit quiet so I didn’t chat with anyone, but it was still a comfortable place to smoke cigar and have a drink.

And just generally in the city you could smoke on most patios and in some of the restaurants and bars. It just felt very free.

Trolleys

By far one of the most charming public transit systems I have encountered is the network of trolleys in Memphis. They don’t have the broadest range, but they do go to some useful places. What makes them charming however is the fact that they are 100-year-old refurbished trolleys. Right down to carved wooden interiors and antique light fixtures, they are unbelievably charming. Even if you’re not taking them to go from point A to point B, a ride on one is a must. There’s even one route that takes you on a scenic journey through downtown Memphis and along the Mississippi river. Best of all, a ride is only $1.00, or you pay $2.00 for unlimited rides for the entire day.

Even better, on the last Friday of the month during the summer they have what’s called Trolley Night. On Trolley Night, all the trolleys are free and all along the routes there is sort of a street party. The businesses all stay open late and provide live music and cocktails and special arts events. It’s terrific. I was just lucky that I happened to be arriving on the last weekend of the month, so when I read about Trolley Night, I made sure to arrive on Friday morning as opposed to Saturday morning so I could enjoy the evening. I rode the trolleys, stopped off at various galleries and shops, and hung out smoking cigars in front of the Tinderbox.

Civil Rights Museum

I wouldn’t tell people what to do when they go to a city, but I think that if you’re going to Memphis you must visit the National Civil Rights Museum. Yes, I know about the civil rights movement, but I don’t know about everything. And this museum does such a good job of not only giving you the overview of what happened but giving you very specific stories about people that you may have not heard of. And seeing all of the photos, and spending time with it, was very moving. There were several times where I put sunglasses on in the museum just to hide the fact that I was starting to cry.

The museum is attached onto The Lorraine Motel, which is where Martin Luther King was assassinated on 4 April 1968. The motel looks as it did in the day, but there is a small monument in front of the balcony where he was killed. In the museum, your journey takes you to the exhibit about the Memphis sanitation workers protests, which brought Martin Luther King to Memphis in April 1968. You then walk to his motel room where the wall has been replaced with a window, and you can look in and see it as it was. It is a very moving experience.

Lucky Ducks

The “South’s Grand Hotel,” The Peabody, was built in 1869, and it’s an impressive building. It is probably lovely to stay in, but it was well out of my price range. But the reason that you need to know about the Peabody is because of the ducks. In the 1930s, the manager of the hotel and a friend had been hunting and they were drunk and they thought it would be funny to put their live duck decoys in the fountain in the middle of the lobby. This started a tradition that carries on to today.

From the 1940s to 1991 bellman Edward Pembroke, a former circus animal worker, provided ducks to the fountain every day until he retired in 1991. Since then, there is still a Duck Master who is in charge of ensuring that there are ducks in the lobby from 11:00 AM to 5:00 PM each day. That’s a bit quirky and fun right? It gets even better.

In 2008, the hotel spent $200,000 US to build a “duck palace” on the roof of the hotel. I didn’t view the duck palace myself, but I understand that it includes a replica of the hotel and a swimming pool. Each day at 11:00 AM, the Duck Master, who wears an elaborate outfit with tails, a top hat, and a black cane with a silver duck head on it, walks the ducks from the roof into the elevator and on a red carpet to the fountain in the middle of the lobby and does so to Sousa march. At 5:00 PM, the Duck Master escorts the ducks back to the rooftop.

If you plan accordingly, you can be there to witness the duck procession. And I think you can make some special arrangements to view the ducks on the roof. I arrived at the hotel just after the ducks were brought to the lobby, but I saw the Duck Master in the lobby talking to some families. I stayed and had a cocktail and watched the ducks splashing about. This is one of the most charming and whimsical things I’ve ever heard of. And it’s in Memphis.

*the luckiest ducks in the their fountain*

Cooper-Young

I’m sure Memphis has a lot of cool areas outside of downtown, but I didn’t have time to visit a lot of them. But I did visit Cooper-Young. It was a short bus or taxi ride. I went first to the Memphis Brooks Museum of Art, which was in a park just outside of Cooper-Young. It was good museum with excellent permanent exhibits and, when I was there, it had a really cool fashion exhibit.

From there I walked down the street into Cooper-Young. The neighbourhood is just kind of a funky, hipster-y, historic neighbourhood with lots of cool independent bars and restaurants, book and gift shops, and beautiful houses. It was a great way to spend a couple of hours looking around. It made me curious what other neighbourhoods of Memphis there were that I didn’t have time to get to.

People

Without a doubt, the people that I met in Memphis were some of the friendliest people that I’ve met anywhere. From the cigar people who felt like instant friends, to the trolley drivers who chatted with me, to people I met in bars and restaurants, everyone was so friendly. This isn’t a place where people are minding their own business; people are engaging in conversation, they’re curious and talkative, and they are polite. I’m not always someone who wants to talk to other people, and truth be told, when I’m at home in Vancouver, I have my headphones on constantly, but the people in Memphis were just so charming and genuine that I was won over and couldn’t help but engage in conversation.

Atmosphere

Memphis is interesting. It’s not polished and perfect. It’s not a Charleston, for example. It feels like a city that’s been through some rough times. Parts of the downtown feel a little rough around the edges. While I never felt unsafe, I understand that it’s not a good place to be out late at night. (The latest I was out was about 11:30 PM and I didn’t have any problems but I can’t necessarily recommend it.) It’s not super beautiful, although it does have some nice old buildings and great street art, and away from places like Beale street, this streets don’t feel necessarily lively and welcoming. And parts of Memphis, like when I walked to Sun Records, felt quite economically depressed. But it is very interesting and I feel like it’s a city that is on the rise, economically. I feel like in 20 years, Memphis could be one of those places that everyone is going, like Nashville. But right now, it feels like a place that is kind of an insider destination. I’m not saying Memphis is a secret; clearly, millions of people go there, drawn by the music and Elvis and history, but it still feels a little like you’re getting in early on something that’s going to be great again. I like that about it.

The two things I didn’t like about Memphis

Not everything is perfect and I wouldn’t want it to be. There were two things that I did not like about Memphis.

The Heat. I was there in the middle of summer, and it was fucking hot. I’m used to heat. I traveled to some of the hottest countries in the world and I used to live in Miami, so I usually deal with that thing that sort of thing okay, but something about the heat in Memphis at the time that I went was insufferable. Even the locals couldn’t stop talking about how hot it was. It was over 100° and really humid. Walking around, I had to buy a handkerchief just so I had something to mop the sweat off my face. Even at midnight, there was no relief. This might have contributed to the streets feeling kind of empty during the day as nobody wanted to be sitting outside. It didn’t stop me from walking everywhere, but it did mean that I was constantly overheated and uncomfortable.

The Food. If you like BBQ, you’re all set. But I don’t eat meat or fish or fried things, so Memphis was kind of a disaster for eating. There was one restaurant I found in Cooper young that was a vegan restaurant, and I had some vegan collard greens and cornbread, which was delicious, and there was a Caribbean restaurant downtown that had a vegetarian curry that was very good. But other than that, there were not a lot of options. I went to this one classic diner, The Arcade, for breakfast and there was really nothing on the menu that I would eat apart from a very lacklustre veggie burger. (I also don’t eat pancakes or waffles or eggs. I know, annoying…) I kind of expected this, so I’m not really complaining, but I have said so many glowing things about Memphis I just wanted knowledge the couple of things that weren’t the best.

Summing up

I loved Memphis. I want to go back. I want to smoke more cigars and see more music. I want to revisit Graceland. I want to do the things that I didn’t have time to do and just generally hang out. This is high praise from me because I don’t usually want to go back to places, but Memphis was a good vibe and close enough to Vancouver that I think it’s worth a revisit.

This post is really long, so I have put Graceland in a separate post. Read on here…

Andorra-Lithuania trip 2024 Switzerland

Zürich Layover

My flight from Barcelona to Vancouver had a layover in Zürich about five and a half hours. This time could be easily spent at the airport given that you need time for boarding and whatnot, but that’s not really my thing. Anytime I have an opportunity to leave an area and visit or revisit a city, I am going to take it. I think this is the fourth time that I was in Zürich. I had been to Zürich on a proper vacation before, and since then I have been into the city of Zürich once or twice on layovers, so this was something I was familiar with. Before I knew it I was on the train heading into the city.

Zürich is one of those places that is excellent for a short layover because, with Swiss efficiency, the trains are quick and on time and they deliver you right from the airport right into the centre of one of Europe’s most pleasant cities. Even if all you have time for is to go in and have a short walk, I think it is worth it. My layover was rather short, so I didn’t even stop to check my backpack into a left luggage office, I just trained into the city and walked into the centre and decided to have a stroll and a coffee.

It was quite early when I arrived, and many things weren’t open yet so I just walked through the quiet streets taking in the fresh air and morning sunlight playing off of the charming buildings and streets.

I walked down to the river and to a hotel: the Storchen Zürich. The Storchen is located on the Limmat River and is a short walk from the train station. I’ve never stayed at the hotel, but I’m familiar with it because it has a lovely cigar lounge inside. It was far too early for the cigar lounge to be open, but the cafe was. I went to the cafe and I sat on the patio one of the tables ordered a coffee and a croissant and lit up a breakfast cigar. Notwithstanding that I looked a bit haggard from my near red eye flight, and I was walking around with a big backpack, I received a polite greeting; and when the well-dressed and waiter saw that I had lit a cigar, he immediately brought out a proper cigar ashtray to swap for the cigarette ashtray that had been on the table. I felt very welcome. At the next table a man and woman sat having a breakfast and they made a point of telling me how nice my cigar smelled. I never expect people to say that sort of thing to me and I understand that many people do not like the smell of cigars, but it just made me feel happy (and this was a nice contract to the rude tobacconist in Stockholm a couple days prior). I felt like I had found the right place.

I sat there along the river looking out at rowers gliding through the water and listening to the church bells ringing out and I thought, what a wonderful city; so beautiful and calm and polite. How fortunate to be able to just zip in for a few hours and enjoy a bit of this lovely atmosphere before heading back to the airplane. But I did have to head back to the airplane because my flight home was drawing near, and I hate to be rushed.

It was a perfect end to a wonderful trip that took me through Barcelona, Andorra, Lithuania, Latvia, Stockholm, and finally a little snippet of Zürich. I was exhausted but satisfied.

My next trip would be to Memphis, Tennessee.

Andorra-Lithuania trip 2024 Spain

Back in Barcelona, briefly

I arrived back in Barcelona from Stockholm mid-morning on Sunday. The journey home had begun. I would only be in Barcelona for a little less than 24 hours before flying to Vancouver via Zurich. I didn’t mind being back in Barcelona even if my impression the first time around was lukewarm. I decided to stay in a different neighbourhood than I did last time; rather than staying near the centre I stayed at the Generator Hostel which was in the Gràcia District. This neighbourhood felt less touristy than the central area, but I liked the hostel that I stayed at the first time better. The Generator Hostels have very nice facilities, but little to no extras. No towels, free coffee, or privacy curtains. I mean, seriously, if I’m going to stay in a dorm is it too much to ask to have a little curtain around my bunk so that I can have a modicum of privacy while sleeping, or wake up early without disturbing everyone? I don’t know the reason behind not having the curtains, but I think it sucks. (Actually, I’ve always assumed that the reason that some hostels don’t have these curtains is that they’re concerned about people having sex in the bunks. I understand that, but I think that if you are really committed to having sex in a public place the lack of a curtain is not going to be a factor.)

Generator hostel & bunk

One thing this hostel did have was a terrific rooftop patio with a view over the city, including of the Sagrada Família.

I liked the little neighbourhood that I stayed in because it felt more ordinary and it was nice to walk the streets and see little restaurants and cafes and people just going about their daily lives, but I was still drawn back to the centre, which was a very pleasant walk.

I didn’t have much of an agenda, but I did want to go to the Moco (modern and contemporary art museum, Barcelona). It was great. It has lots of art by the likes of Damien Hirst and Basquiat, and Kehinde Wiley.

I had a pleasant visit, and at that point I felt like I had nothing else I needed to do, so I just went for a pleasant walk and a long lunch and had a cigar. When the evening came, I decided to go back to the El Ravel and hit up a couple more appealing bars. I didn’t go back to the excellent Two Schmucks I had visited before but went to their brother bar Lucky Schmucks where they had a ridiculously cheap happy hour in a dive bar environment. I then walked over to a nearby bar that caught my eye called La Cobra. It had the most wonderful decor with dim lighting, red and black everything, and on display a menagerie of gothic satanic and creepy carnival artifacts. I felt quite at home. It looked like a place you go to have your fortune told. I had a drink and made a long walk back to my hostel.

Early the next morning (another hideous 6am flight, which seemed like a good idea when I booked it but not such a good idea when I woke up at 3am), I would fly back to Vancouver but not before having a pleasant morning in Zürich.

Andorra-Lithuania trip 2024 Sweden

Solo in Stockholm Day 2

Day one in Stockholm had been success and I was excited for day two. The first day I did everything that I had wanted to do in my initial planning, but on the second day I did the things that weren’t on my A-List. I think I might have had it backwards, because everything I did on the second day was excellent.

Stockholm by Sea

I got up early and headed to the harbour. While everything in Stockholm is expensive, one of the best tourism things that you can do on a budget is take the commuter ferry. Sweden has an astonishing 267,570 islands and Stockholm sits on several islands in an archipelago. There is a network of commuter ferries set up to take people around Stockholm’s islands. I’m sure they’re all great, but I decided to take the ferry for line 80. It was such a good idea, I wish I left myself more time to see more of the stops along the way. Line 80 travels through and stops at many of the islands in the archipelago and would make for a great day trip in of itself. Better yet you can get a ticket for a single journey for 43 SEK (about $6 CDN). The boats are comfortable, but basic, but who cares because you’re looking at this spectacular Swedish coastline and heading off to stops on route.

I went to Nacka Strand and got off the boat there and went for a bit of a walk. It was very early and so the businesses that were there that might have been nice to stop and have a coffee at were closed. But I loved the walk. The views were gorgeous and there were little miniature sculptures built into the rocks along the path.

*me and some miniature art at Nacka Strand*

As I said, I wish I could have seen more stops en route, but I had other things that I wanted to do. One of the things I didn’t even know I wanted to do until I was on the boat, which was visiting Stockholm’s amusement park.

Rollercoasters Actual

Gröna Lund is Sweden’s oldest amusement park, dating back to about 1883. Of course the rides are new, but it has old world charm. It is a small amusement park set on Djurgården Island. I love an amusement park, and there was no way I was going to miss this one. I didn’t have a lot of time, but I wanted to at least experience it. I bought a wristband and headed in. I don’t even know what it cost but it was worth it. I went on a couple of roller coasters which were excellent and into a haunted house. There’s something about going to an amusement park as a grown up by yourself that is a little bit odd. Standing in line for the haunted house I was the only adult who wasn’t there with small children, and I was slightly worried that people thought I was a pervert or weirdo. Oh well. The haunted house was good fun and towards the end something in the seat poked me in the back and I shrieked and then started laughing like a maniac. Good fun.

The Vasa

From the amusement park I walked in the direction of a couple of more museums. I know that there is an ABBA museum in Stockholm and I hear it is quite popular. I like ABBA as much as the next person, but I wasn’t that excited about seeing an entire museum about them. I decided instead to go to the Vasa Museum, which was one of the best decisions that I made.

The Vasa is a Swedish warship that was built in the early 1600s and sank on its first journey in 1628. It lay at the bottom of the sea off the coast of Sweden until 1961 when it was salvaged. Remarkably, the ship is intact and you can go visit it at the museum bearing its name in Stockholm. It is astonishing. One of the best museums I’ve ever been to. I know that may sound hard to believe, because what’s so exciting about seeing a ship? Even I was a bit skeptical before going to it. But there i something so haunting and beautiful about it. The ship is enormous and adorned with carvings and decoration. It is fascinating to take in it’s spectacle. The haunting part is that you were staring at a ship that is almost 400 years old and looks almost as it did the day it sank. The museum is filled with all kinds of information about the ship how it was built, how it was salvaged and, most interestingly, it includes information about many of the people who were on board the ship. It is just a fascinating link to a historical time.

Rollercoasters Emotional (and where to smoke cigars in Stockholm)

After visiting the Vasa, I walked back more towards central Stockholm and decided to visit some of the cigar stores in the city. Stockholm is a terrible place for cigar smoking. Smoking indoors is banned, as are cigar lounges unless they are truly private cigar lounges. I did find a private cigar lounge but was unable to bribe my way in. Smoking on patios is banned as well. It is still a little bit less restrictive than Vancouver, as you can smoke in parks and squares. Anyway, I was excited to check out some of the stores.

Highest on my list, was to visit Broberg’s, an historic cigar and accessories store in Stockholm dating back to 1881. I found the store, snapped a little photo before I went inside, and walked inside and greeted the people working there as I walked into the humidor. I’m not going to get into the specifics of what happened because I don’t think it would make for a very interesting story, but I’ll just suffice it to say that the fellow working there was quite rude to me. He seemed to think that maybe I was a thief or something the way he treated me, and I really tried to remain calm, but I think that a week of travelling and having only about four hours of sleep at night had left me a little emotionally vulnerable. I started to cry. The stoic Swede appeared a bit taken aback. I told the man defiantly through my tears that I had been looking forward to visiting his store and buying cigars there, and he was so rude to me that it had just ruined the entire experience and my day. I still bought a cigar, because I wanted him to know that I wasn’t a thief or a fraud. And I walked away.

But the thing is, I couldn’t stop crying. I was just walking down the street in Stockholm sobbing. I tried to get it together as I approached another cigar store, but I got there just as it was closing, just as well because I was still in. tears. I kept walking down the same street and went to Cigarrummet. At this point I had stopped crying. I walked into the store, and it was beautiful. It had an impressively well-stocked humidor and the man working there was very friendly. I walked towards the humidor and the man asked me how I was. And I started sobbing again. This man was also taken aback, understandably so. I tried to explain to him that I had just had an unfortunate experience at the other cigar store but also that I was fine. An assurance that I don’t think he took much stock in since I said it through tears. Again, I managed to pull myself together and I bought a nice assortment of cigars. I walked away from the store feeling embarrassed and went and sat in a little square across the way.

Recharging

My mood improved as I sat in this beautiful small square surrounded by pink blossoms and had a cigar. Cigars serve many purposes for me; sometimes they are meditative, sometimes they are social, and sometimes they are calming.

I always like to say that the gruelling schedules that I make for myself on trips with very little sleep and endless walking do not have any effect on me, but clearly they can, because while the guy at the first cigar store was a real jerk, normal me wouldn’t have cried. I think that reaction was exhaustion. I’m sharing this story because I think it’s important to document the travel experiences that aren’t great. Not everything is happiness and bliss. Sometimes things kind of suck. But then they’re better again.

And while I sat there in this square on this bench, I noticed something amazing. Or at least it was amazing to me. The bench had a little insignia on it that looked like a phone charging symbol. I examined the bench a little closer and then noticed that along the front edge of the seat there was a little button, and if you push the little button, a tiny little piece pops out with charging ports in it. It was a solar powered phone charging station built into the bench and cleverly hidden away to protect it from the elements. I was so impressed by this, not only because my phone desperately needed a charge, but because this is the sort of practical, clever design that I expect from Scandinavia and that should be ubiquitous. This discovery, along with the cigar, completely washed away the bitterness and humiliation of the unfortunate Broberg’s experience.

Winding up Stockholm

From there I went on a long aimless walk through the city. It was a beautiful sunny day turning into evening, and everyone seemed to be out. I was so impressed with Stockholm, but it also had enough of the outdoors, so when I saw a sign to an underground tiki bar (Tiki Room), I had to pay a visit. I descended into the depths and enjoyed a fruity, sugary, boozy concoction while listening to kitschy music. Content.

I wandered slowly back to my hostel, getting there a bit late and went to sleep. It would be another short slumber, as I had a hideously early flight to Barcelona, where I would have a day and a night before returning to Vancouver.

I was very happy with having two days in Stockholm, but I easily could have filled more days. There is so much more to do. I would be happy to return, but also with Stockholm prices, maybe a short visit is for the best. [Next Post: Back to Barcelona]

Andorra-Lithuania trip 2024 Sweden

Solo in Stockholm Day 1

I arrived in Stockholm from Riga. My second visit to Sweden. My first time had been half a day in Malmö when I took the train over from Copenhagen. It counted, but barely. I was excited to see the capital. One of those perfect Scandinavian cities where everyone is beautiful and the quality of life is high. Of course, all that perfection comes at a price. I had heard that Sweden was very expensive, and I’ve already written in my first post from this trip about how I paid approximately $250 per night for a basic dorm bed in a central hostel in Stockholm. It was the weekend of a trio of Taylor Swift concerts and accommodations were expensive than usual.

I would have two days and two nights there, which is normally enough, but honestly I could have done with the third day. There’s a lot to see.

I got started early. I took the Arlanda Express train in from the airport, which was super easy and took only 18 minutes – but you pay for that ease and efficiency. It was about $48 CDN each way.

I arrived at my hostel, a Generator Hostel in the centre, which I recommend because it was very well located and quite a bit cheaper than any other central option, but as far as hostels go it was only OK. For the price, it didn’t include many extras; all I really wanting a hostel dorm is a privacy curtain on my bunk, and this did not have that luxury. Every single person staying at the hostel other than me seemed to be going to the concert and the place was buzzing with excitement of a thousand Swifties on concert day. I went out to see the city.

I spent the majority of that first day just walking around and soaking up the atmosphere. Stockholm is a gorgeous city with lots of greenery and waterways. I live in Vancouver, another city with lots of greenery and waterways, but that’s about all Vancouver has. Stockholm also has gorgeous historical architecture an abundance of arts and culture and cinnamon buns. So many cinnamon buns.

The most picturesque neighbourhood in Stockholm is Gamla Stan. This is the historic centre, set on a small island. This neighbourhood dates back to about 1300. The buildings are old, colourful, and full of character. This is the area of the city that feels the most touristy, but it’s worth every moment because it’s ridiculously picturesque.

*Stortorget: the* *Square in Gamla Stan*

I walked around taking pictures of the buildings and narrow foot paths and stopping for a cinnamon bun and coffee. Fika. The Swedish practice of taking a coffee break from the day with a sweet treat; usually a cinnamon bun. When in Stockholm…

Sweden, like its neighbours has charming words to describe relaxing and cozy practices. Denmark has hygge, Sweden has lagom, a concept meaning moderation; not too much or too little of anything. They also have mys, which is a word for coziness and comfort. These are appealing concepts. I could imagine how nice it would be to be in Stockholm in the winter when it is dark most of the day, cozying up with a warm beverage in a cinnamon bun. But I was there in May, and it was hot and sunny and perfect for exploring.

Generally a fan of historical churches, I wanted to visit Storkyrkan, the oldest church in Stockholm. It was consecrated in 1306 and, aside from its age, it is famous for having a notable statue of Saint George and the dragon inside, which was apparently unmissable. I found the church and hesitated before I went in because it was 120 Swedish kroner to go inside. That’s about $17 CDN. I don’t want paying to go into a church but $17.00 just to have a look around seemed quite steep. But I couldn’t walk away not having seen it because what if it was the most amazing statue or church interior ever? So I reluctantly paid my money and went inside. I’m only mentioning this because if you’re on the fence about going into this church and you happen to be reading my blog post, I’m here to tell you to skip it. The interior of the church is unremarkable if you’ve seen other churches from that period. And the statue? Yeah it’s nice, but I would have been OK not seeing it as well.

$17.00 later, I continued my visit of Stockholm.

I walked over to the modern art museum Moderna Museet, which was free that day (normally it is 150 SEK), and was excellent. It had some really weird art with social commentary and I loved it. There also happened to be some sort of cocktail reception when I was there and so it felt like I had stumbled across a really happening spot.

I also visited the National Museum, which was also excellent. Beautiful paintings and some examples of wonderful Swedish design. 160 SEK for admission and well worth it.

National Museum

I wandered outside to a bench near the water and had a cigar. Nearby, a lovely patio of a hotel was filled with people drinking Aperol spritzes and looking gorgeous. An older couple came and asked if they could sit with me and I obliged, a bit surprised because often people don’t want to sit near cigar smokers. They were a local couple out for a stroll and we ended up talking for the better part of an hour. They had lived in various places around the world but Stockholm was their favourite. And in that moment sitting there surrounded by beautiful buildings and beautiful people and looking out at the sparkling water, I could see why.

I spent most of the evening wandering aimlessly and looking for the perfect place to eat, which didn’t exist but I ended up going for Indian food near my hostel. And I went to bed at a reasonable hour. I had another full day in Stockholm and I had plans that included taking a boat ride, visiting an amusement park, checking out a sunken ship, and hitting up some of the local cigar stores. [Read Day 2 in Stockholm…]

Andorra-Lithuania trip 2024 Latvia

Return to Riga

I had arrived in Riga by land coming from Vilnius, Lithuania. I think it was about 3:00pm when I arrived and I checked into my hotel. I had booked a bed at a hostel but something got screwed up with my reservation so at the last minute I ended up booking a room at a hotel in the centre. This was my second time in Riga, and I would only be there a short time, leaving very early the next morning. But I was delighted to have a bit of time to revisit the city.

It had been exactly two years since I was there last when I came for a four day long weekend in May. It was just as lovely as I remembered. I don’t really have much to say about Riga this time, because I said most of my impressions when I arrived the first time, so if you’re interested in going to Riga or knowing what it’s like, go back and read the two posts that I made in 2022. This time I’ll just say that it is terrific city. I think it’s one of my favourite cities in Europe. It’s very pretty and pleasant, with wonderful architecture, an interesting history, and a nice vibe.

I already had a sense of my way around, so I walked around the historic centre and took in some of the lovely streets and buildings that I had seen before, before going to a cigar lounge (The Oak Lounge) to sit and have a cigar of course. I wandered over to Albert(a) Street past the famous art nouveau buildings, which truly are exquisite.

I grabbed a bite to eat somewhere unremarkable. And I made plans to meet up with a friend. When I had been to Riga in 2022 I had booked a private historical walking tour of the city with a fellow and we got along quite well. At the end of the tour we went for drinks with some of his friends and it was the highlight of my trip. So I let him know that I was coming to town and we met up exactly two years later at exactly the same bar with a couple of the same friends and a couple of new ones. Again, it was my favourite thing about the trip. It’s just a good group of guys at a cool neighbourhood bar that I would have never found on my own. I like the bar so much that I’m not even going to say what it’s called or where it is because I don’t want to encourage too many people to go there and ruin its authentic feel. (But I will post a couple of pictures and if you can figure it out, good for you.) They have a little leafy courtyard where people drank and nobody minded if you smoked. I spent a couple of hours there, leaving after dark and walking back to my hotel.

*bar door on arrival; bar courtyard; bar door on departure, a few drinks later*

That was it. Like I said, it was a short visit. My flight the next morning was at 8:20 AM heading to Stockholm. The flight was part of the reason that I decided to go back to Riga in the first place, because the flight from Riga to Stockholm was ridiculously cheap and while I had been to Sweden I had never been to Stockholm and it seemed like a great opportunity. The day of my flight to Stockholm was the 8th day of my trip and I must admit that all of these crazy early morning flights, days constantly on the go, and late nights out was starting to catch up with me a little bit but I was still excited to see what lay ahead. Read on for Stockholm…

Andorra-Lithuania trip 2024 Lithuania

Vilnius: It’s Pretty Amazing

I left Barcelona the day after my trip to Andorra and flew to Vilnius. A direct flight. My first time to Lithuania. There were really only two things that I wanted to do in Lithuania: see Vilnius and visit the Hill of Crosses. Vilnius was first on the list.

Lithuania is a Baltic state, which shares borders with Poland, Latvia, and Belarus, and has a coast along the Baltic Sea. It was a former member of the Soviet Union. Vilnius is Its capital. Lithuania doesn’t get a lot of attention from a tourism perspective, which led the government in about 2018 to come out with a tourism slogan comparing Vilnius to the g-spot: “Nobody knows where it is, but when you find it – it’s amazing“. Terrific.

Arrival in Vilnius

Since this was kind of a last-minute trip, I didn’t have my pick of places to stay. If there were excellent hostels in Vilnius, they were booked up by the time I went there, so I ended up staying at a proper hotel (a Conti Hotel), a little more than I wanted to spend but still within my budget and walking distance to the centre of the city. It was a nice hotel with a swanky lobby in a comfortable room.

My flight landed in the evening and by the time I got to my hotel (via taxi) it was about 8:30pm and the sun was low in the sky. I threw my bag down and walked into the city centre. I was immediately so happy. Barcelona is a good city, but it wasn’t my cup of tea. And Andorra was really just checking a box and I wasn’t that thrilled with what I saw. Vilnius was a welcome sight. I’ve said repeatedly that I’d love former Soviet countries; I have yet to visit one that I didn’t love. And Vilnius just felt so comfortable. I saw the orthodox churches, the charming buildings, and the cobblestone streets, felt the cool air and saw and the relatively stony faces of the people that I passed and I felt at home.

Unfortunately, shortly after landing I got a text message from work and it kind of derailed what should have been a perfectly pleasant evening, but aside from work drama that kept me up until the wee hours of the morning, I did enjoy my walk around the city and I had an excellent dinner on a patio over Georgian restaurant (Khinkalnya Vilnius), was persuaded to drink a couple of shots of chacha by the owner, and had a Cuban cigar on the patio. It was a great introduction to the city, and I couldn’t wait to wake up an explore. (I only got to sleep for about three hours, so I didn’t have to wait long.)

Wandering Vilnius

The next morning, as always, I got up early as it was my only day in the city and I had a lot to see. Vilnius doesn’t have a lot of specific touristic sites; the main thing is just to walk around and enjoy the atmosphere, all of the churches and charming cafes, public art, the pedestrianized streets with restaurants and cute shops.

I don’t know what it’s like to visit at other times of the year, but I think that spring was lovely. It was a little bit cool in the evening which I liked, and it was warm enough during the day to sit outside comfortably. The lilac bushes were in full bloom and everything was green.

There is a ridiculous number of orthodox churches in the city and there it’s worth ducking into all of them. Some of them had beautiful singing happening, and all of them had the glittering excess of Russian orthodox churches, which I love.

For me, one of the key things that I wanted to visit was an abandoned building just outside of the city centre. It was a pleasant walk across a bridge, aside from when an American man who was there standing on the street and proselytizing about Jesus told me I was ongoing to hell when I didn’t take one of his brochures. Oh well. The building is a spectacular abandoned stadium that was opened in 1971 as the Vilnius Palace of Concerts and Sports. It is a massive, brutalist-style concrete structure built in an unusual sort of wave pattern. At some point it was converted into a sort of mall and then it was closed completely in about 2004. It is now covered in graffiti. It is excellent and just a little creepy.

It is also located just near a Jewish cemetery which is also pleasant for a bit of a wander.

Užupis

The other place that I really wanted to visit in Vilnius is the semi-autonomous area of Užupis, which means “beyond the river.” It’s just a short walk from the Old Town, across the river (obviously). In 1997, a group of artists declared it the Republic of Užupis. It’s not really its own state, but it was set up that way. There is a border crossing and it has its own flag and constitution, which is on display in the street and includes such mandates as everyone has a right to be happy, man has the right to individuality, and everyone has the right to appreciate their unimportance. I dig it.

The motto of Užupis is “Don’t Fight”, “Don’t Win”, “Don’t Surrender”.

Part of the idea behind the creation of Užupis is a belief founded in the Aristotelian thought that people should live in small communities where everyone knows one another, which will result in people being more honest and happy. The area is a terrific place to visit. While it was once kind of a derelict ghetto, now it just feels like a proper part of the city but with lots of public art on display and at a lot of small independent businesses and artisan shops. In a way, it’s like Freetown Christiania in Copenhagen except without the focus on drugs.

*The Užupis Cat, which comes with a little poem. Worth finding.*

Back across the River…

I visited the MO Museum (Museum of Modern Art), which is relatively small but definitely worth a visit.

I thought Vilnius was delightful.

Smoking Cigars in Vilnius

Before dinner, I sought out one of Vilnius’ cigar lounges. For a former Soviet country, Vilnius is kind of difficult to smoke in. Indoor smoking wasn’t allowed, and it seemed to be banned on all of the patios. The Georgian restaurant that I ate at the night before let me smoke outside but only because I was the only person on the patio due to the cold weather. Fortunately, there are several hidden smoking rooms in the basements or backrooms of restaurants and a few proper cigar lounges.

I visited one cigar lounge in the old city, Cigarų namai, which was excellent. It had everything you’d want in a cigar lounge, an excellent selection of cigars, beverages for purchase and a calming room full of soft leather furniture. The only downside was they were playing the worst smooth jazz music that I’ve ever heard. It seemed like they only had one CD and it was on repeat. I was there for about two hours, and I heard the CD at least twice. I wanted to kill myself. At some point I just put in my headphones and listen to a podcast while I enjoyed my cigars. Music aside, it was a lovely interlude.

There is another cigar lounge called Cigarų kambarys (Cigar Room) located at Vilniaus g. 29 but upstairs with no obvious signage. I went there as well but it was empty.

I had dinner on a leafy patio and wandered the streets until it was dark. I was very happy in Vilnius, but I was also excited for the next day when I would travel by car to Latvia, stopping at the Hill of Crosses along the way.

Andorra-Lithuania trip 2024 Spain

Barcelona Beginnings

(What was I doing in Barcelona in May 2024? Start here.)

This was not my first trip to Spain. In 2009 my mother and I had done a two and a half week backpacking trip in Portugal, which led us to the north of that country, from where we walked across a bridge into Spain and visited a town called Tui. So technically I had been to Spain, but it always felt like something that had a little asterisk next to it in the sense that I really hadn’t seen much of the country at all. So when I found a reasonably priced flight to Barcelona this seemed like a good opportunity. It was a good opportunity in two respects: one it allowed me to remove the asterisk next to my visit to Spain; and two, it also would allow me to visit the micro country of Andorra. More on that in another post. So even if I wasn’t excited about Barcelona, I was happy to be going there.

I arrived just before 7:00 PM and took a bus into the city centre. I was staying at St Christopher’s Inn hostel, which was just a block off of the Plaça de Catalunya and right near the Rambla and the metro station. Next in central. It was a good hostel. It didn’t have any frills, but the people at the front desk were wonderfully welcoming and the hostel itself was functional. It had all the things that require in a hostile: girl only dorms, privacy curtains, and lights and plugins in each bunk.

I ditched my stuff and went out to explore.

I just wandered around that first night without much of an agenda. I got the lay of the land, had a dinner of hummus and eggplants, and smoked a cigar. I was also fortunate to happen across some kind of a outdoor free concert happening in a courtyard, so I watched part of that, which was quite fun.

Some cities that I go to make a great first impression on me and others do not. Barcelona was in the latter category. That’s not to say that I disliked it. I didn’t dislike it, it just didn’t impress or excite or fascinate me. And this initial impression stayed true for the rest of my time there.

It’s a perfectly nice city. It has all the things that you would want in a European city: big beautiful churches, old buildings, winding streets, inviting squares, live music, and a good art scene. But something was lacking for me. It might have been just the sheer volume of tourists that put me off a bit. They choked the Rambla and created off-putting congestion around any site of note; That said, if you got away from those touristy bits the city felt more like a regular city. I was, of course, aware that Barcelona was one of those European cities that is overly touristy to the point where they’re trying to deter tourists from going there, but I kinda don’t get it. I understand why tourists want to go to Paris or Amsterdam or Venice, but I don’t really see the appeal of Barcelona more than any number of other European cities. Still, it’s worth seeing and I did have a nice time.

My first full day was Sunday, an I endeavoured to visit the key sites, which included visiting a couple of famous Gaudí buildings and the Basílica de la Sagrada Família. I walked to the Casa Batlló and La Pedrera – Casa Milà. I didn’t go inside either one, but they were extremely impressive to view from the outside. It’s not my style of architecture, but I appreciated them for being beautiful and being different.

*Casa Batlló and La Pedrera – Casa Milà*

I hopped on the metro to the Sagrada Família. I was eager to see the inside of this famous church, but by the time I booked this trip all of the tickets to view the inside were sold out. This isn’t a church that you can just show up and saunter into. The only way that I could have gotten inside with this little notice was to book a guided tour lasting an hour and a half and costing approximately $150.00. While I have heard that the inside is gorgeous. I was not willing to spend that much money or that much time on this building, so I decided to just take it in from the outside. And here’s my controversial opinion. I think it’s kind of ugly. While I thought the other two Gaudí buildings that I saw were beautiful the Sagrada Família just looks like a mess to me. It is interesting, with unusual flourishes and bits of fruit sitting on top of turrets, but the overall building just looks like a mass of melted wax. Some buildings look better when you see them in person. In my opinion, this was not one of them.

I made my way over to the MACBA Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona, it was a much better experience. Not too big art gallery containing intriguing and occasionally beautiful contemporary in modern art pieces. Just as enjoyable as the art gallery itself was the neighbourhood that it was set in. I returned several times to the square just outside the art gallery in the evening as it had lots of street art, outdoor eateries, and a constant stream of skateboarders trying out different tricks. It was very lively I loved it.

I had a bite to eat and then rambled over to the Palau de la Música Catalana, a beautiful concert hall built in the early 1900s. I did pay for a ticket to go inside this buildings and it was well worth it, even at €18. I opted not to do a guided tour but just to wander around in my own, as I felt a little pressed for time. It is one of the most beautiful theatres that I’ve ever seen and even if it’s just to stop in for 10 or 15 minutes to look around, I think it’s one of the best sites if you enjoy that sort of thing.

It was getting to be evening time and so I geared up for a night of bar and restaurant hopping. I try not to drink much when I travel (if at all) because of trouble, but I think a trip to Barcelona would be a bit wasted if a person didn’t have at least a few drinks on your night out in the town. My favourite thing about Barcelona was the night. All of the restaurants had haphazard seating on the squares and into the streets where people sat around having cocktails and glasses of wine and little plates of tapas period music would spill out and everything looked so inviting. Best of all, I could smoke on any patio without any trouble.

I don’t like the idea of tapas. This is mainly because I do not like sharing food. I won’t get into the why; I just don’t like it. But tapas for one is great. It meant that I could go to a little restaurant have a tiny plate of appetizers, a drink, and a cigar and move on to another place, taking in different atmospheres along the way. It was great.

There are also countless appealing ‘hole in the wall’ bars and I had to visit at least a few of them. The best one was called Two Schmucks. And I don’t think it’s exactly a secret; while it is a small dive bar, it has been ranked one of the best bars in the world. I can see why. I loved it immediately; it had great music, it was dark, and the walls were covered with a mishmash of horror movie posters. They had regular cocktails but also a list of highly inventive ones. I ordered a tzatziki martini. I didn’t know what to expect. But I like a martini and I like to see key so why not give it a shot. The martini came and it wasn’t white or milky looking, but perfectly clear. I gingerly took a sip and was astonished. Somehow it tasted like a martini in the sense that it tasted like clean clear alcohol, but it had hints of garlic and dill and was so delicately delicious. Best of all, halfway through the martini they took my remaining martini liquid and poured it into a new frozen glass. No one has ever done this before or since in my entire life and I think it is the best martini service I’ve ever had.

The other thing that was great about sitting at this bar, was I ended up chatting with the guy sitting next to me who worked as a flight attendant from one of the major airlines. And he had no problem answering all my stupid questions. Everything from, “has anyone ever died on one of your flights,” to “do people really have sex in the washrooms,” to “how does one successfully give a small gift to the flight attendants without seeming like a creep?” It was fun and he was good-natured.

I stayed out late, and had a cigar in a late night appetizer on my way back to the hostel. It was a fun day.

This was my second of three nights in Barcelona, and I would come back to the city for a full day and night at the end of my trip, but this was really the end of my Barcelona exploration at the beginning of the trip, as the next day it was headed for my day trip to Andorra.

Andorra-Lithuania trip 2024 Europe

European Hopsctoch

How I planned my trip to Barcelona, Andorra, Vilnius, Riga, & Stockholm

I had booked a trip to go to Lebanon and Syria in May 2024, and I was excited about it. The flights and hostels were booked; the itinerary was made…but then the war in Israel and Palestine spread a bit north into Lebanon. This didn’t affect my plans initially, but when some of the bombs landed in or near Beirut and some airlines cancelled their flights, I started to think twice. I wasn’t concerned about the violence affecting me per se, but I was concerned about flights being cancelled and getting stranded. Work wise, I just couldn’t afford to be stranded in anywhere. So I cancelled my bookings, and I had to book another trip with just about two weeks’ notice. I don’t relish in a last minute trip. I like to languish with travel books, maps, and blogs, researching and anticipating. As I always say, however, travel teaches one flexibility.

This new trip couldn’t be anywhere that required an advance visa or anywhere that needs a lot of pre-planning. Plus, with only two weeks out most of the flights were expensive. So I traded in my desire for adventure and decided to go for a European trip. On the plus side, this would give me an opportunity to visit a couple of new to me countries, plus revisiting some other places that I like. I found a good price on a round-trip ticket to Barcelona, and from there I would visit Andorra, with a little stop in France, I would fly to Lithuania, travel by land to Latvia, fly to Stockholm, before returning to Barcelona, via Zürich on the way. It sounded delightful.

I had been to all of these countries before except for Andorra and Lithuania. Fortunately, flights within Europe tend to be inexpensive and the trip was looking to be fairly affordable. The one thing I didn’t factor into my trip planning, and my budgeting was Taylor Swift.

Taylor Swift and the price of Hostels

I am in no way anti Taylor Swift, but I don’t really give her much thought at all, or at least I didn’t before this trip. When I arrived in Barcelona, I discovered that all of Europe was buzzing with her tour dates getting underway. Just after I arrived in Barcelona, she had a couple of dates in Paris and half of the girls staying in my dorm in Barcelona were on their way to the concert. One of them even lived in the United States and said it was cheaper for her to fly from Los Angeles to Europe and buy tickets there than it was to buy tickets in the States.

All of this meant that the price and availability of hostels in Barcelona and Stockholm were not great. Nowhere was this truer than in Stockholm. I had never been to Stockholm, but I had heard it was expensive, so when I started looking for hostel dorms and I found that they were in the $250 CDN range, I thought, “well I guess that’s just Stockholm prices,” and maybe it was a little more expensive because I was booking at the last minute. What I didn’t realize was that my three days in Stockholm corresponded exactly with Taylor Swift’s three days of concerts there. All of the accommodations were three to four times what they normally were and almost every place was full. I did pay $250 CDN a night for a rather unremarkable dorm bed in Stockholm – one that lacked even a privacy curtain, a towel, or a free breakfast. It is, to date, the most expensive hostel accommodation I’ve ever had.

*Hostel bunks in Barcelona and Stockholm, the latter (Bunk 4) was the $250/night one*

On the plus side, although I am not a ‘Swifty’, I couldn’t help but be charmed by all her fans, particularly in Stockholm, where they seemed to overtake the city but were so cute and wholesome that it was impossible for me to be irritated by them.

Anyway, that was just a blip on what otherwise was a very enjoyable trip to multiple places, starting in Barcelona…

Nicaragua

Two Days in Colourful Granada

Leaving Estelí for Granada

I left Estelí, Nicaragua early on Friday morning. I left the way I came, in a private care instead of on the bus. Friday was a working day for me, and I couldn’t afford to spend half of it in transit, so I hired a driver. The trip took about 2.5 hours. Not a bargain, price-wise, but worth it

Arriving in Granada, I was immediately charmed. This was the colourful city I’d seen in pictures, and it was the city in which I had planned to spend my entire week, before the lure of cigars and tobacco farms took me to Estelí. We arrived in Granada at about 8:00 AM. I would leave two days later. Two days was enough time in Granada.

*main square as seen from my hostel window*

The Poshest of Hostels

I was staying at the Selina Hostel (since changed its name to Socialtel Granada); it was an absolute delight. It’s one of those fancy hostels that feels more like a hotel than than it does just a regular hostel (a poshtel). It is pricier, but you can’t argue with the quality. I had booked a private room, and it was gorgeous. The common areas were full of people hanging out, drinking smoothies and beer, planning day trips to volcanoes, and chit chatting in aesthetically appealing surroundings. As a side note, I did plan to do a day trip to a volcano but it just wasn’t happening while I was there due to volcano activity so I just hung out in the town.

I spent Friday morning sitting on the patio in front of the hostel having a cigar and working on my laptop. With work done, I went out to explore for the weekend.

Wandering Granada

Grenada is one of those places that doesn’t really have tourist attractions per se, it’s really that the city itself is the attraction. It is a gorgeous Spanish colonial town with the oldest architecture dating back nearly 500 years. The buildings are brightly painted, and the streets are cobblestoned. In the centre is a leafy square presided over by a tall bright yellow church.

I know, it’s a lot of photos, but its is just so pretty

It has an active street life, with markets, people playing dominoes, food and drink vendors, add a selection of horses and donkeys.

The central market was an explosion of colours, smells, and fruity goodness.

It is an ideal place for wandering with no destination.

The only downside to Grenada was that it was blisteringly hot and humid. It was hot in Estelí but in a comfortable sort of way. It was so hot when I was in Granada in February that at certain points I felt like I couldn’t see. No matter, the city had an ample assortment of charming cafes and breezy courtyards that I could sit in to take respite from the heat and drink a refreshing beverage or a coffee.

And that’s basically what I did in Granada: I wandered around, I looked at buildings, I took pictures, and I had and I had tasty (non-alcoholic) beverages.

*smoothies, coffee, and a virgin passion fruit colada*

One of the great things about being Granada was that there was a variety of food. It reminded me a lot of Antigua, Guatemala in the sense that it really does cater to tourists and so it has charming cafes with good assortments of vegetarian food. I was in heaven I was able to have vegetarian dishes and nice salads without getting sick. The downside of this was Granada is not particularly cheap. You’re going to pay almost Canadian prices for the pleasures of those lovely cafes. But I was fine with it.

Smoking Cigars in Granada

Of course I smoked cigars. There was one small cigar factory in Granada: Dona Elba. It’s tiny, as their main factory is in Estelí, but there were people in there rolling cigars and cigars were for sale. I made a point of going there and tried a couple of their locally rolled cigars, each of which was only OK. I sat in a rocking chair in their shop area and smoked this very unfortunately named cigar when I was joined by the tired wife of a cigar curious tourist who sat down to talk to me. It was one of those conversations that started normal but then took a turn when this woman, who was from America, began telling me about her COVID conspiracy theories and how Muslims are ruining Europe. Awkward. I obviously don’t agree with her theories and there’s just no point in debating some people. At that point I miss being in Estelí where almost no one spoke English.

*A nice little factory with unremarkable (and one unfortunately named) cigars*

One other note on cigars, don’t buy any here unless it is from a proper cigars store (and even then be careful); Granada was full of egregious fake cigars – not just fake Cubans, but fake non-Cubans, like Padron, Fuente. Nasty looking things, some with beetle holes.

In the evenings I sat outside enjoying the less hot air and smoking cigars, well the people from the nearby hostels marauded about in search of drinks.

It was all perfectly pleasant and was an excellent end to my time in Nicaragua.

Heading Home

I flew home via Mexico City where I had a ten-hour overnight layover. Normally, when flying through Mexico City I’ll go into the city, but I had no desire to go in the middle of the night sleep couple hours and come back to the airport, so I booked a ‘room’ at a little pod hostel just outside of the airport. (izZzleep.) Literally outside the door of the airport and up a flight of stairs. It was my first time staying in one of these little space age pods and I loved it. Great use of my time and money.

Nicaragua was a success I felt fulfilled and rejuvenated.

My next trip would keep me in the Americas: a short jaunt to southern California.

Tag: solo travel