Russia Archives - Wandering North

Estonia Europe Russia Russia Trip 2007

Entering Estonia

A new day and a new country.  We caught our train early this morning. It lacked the romance of the Red Arrow, but was certainly adequate. We had our own little room with folding bunks and pillows and blankets, a little table and a window where we could watch the countryside pass by.

I am pleased to report that the ride was basically uneventful. It was relaxing. I had been nervous about going through Russian customs & immigration, but it was fine. We spent a half an hour at the Russian border and then about an hour at the Estonia border. We showed our passport several times and they searched the train, including under the seats and inside the ceiling.

We arrived in Estonia at 1:00. Note that we are now only 10 hours ahead of B.C. time, not 11 as we were in Russia.

We caught a taxi to our new temporary abode, the City Guesthouse. It is just outside the walls of the Old Town and is in a newish building. Our room and its amenities are the most modern that we have yet enjoyed (i.e. normal looking showers).

We had to get a new currency, the Kroon (pronounced “krone”, but Mz. Kitty & Johnny Z have undoubtedly already researched this and were well aware). We now have five different types of currency in our wallets (Canadian, US, Roubles, Euros, Kroons).

It is so odd now to see signs that are written in familiar-looking letters, as we had gotten so used to the Cyrillic signs.

Most people here seem to speak English, which is useful, because I can’t seem to wrap my head or tongue around the Estonian pronunciations.

So we put away our things and made our way past the medieval walls and into the heart of the Old Town. This part of the city dates back to the 11th century. It is truly amazing. Tiny winding streets with treacherous cobblestones snake past impossibly quaint buildings. Everything looks as though it were straight from the pages of an illustrated book of Grimm’s fairy tales.

Betty Lou is positively in love with the place. “I am so happy I could cry,” she exclaimed with a flap of her tiny arms. We were walking down one street and entered a little courtyard that belonged at one time to a monastery. Down a flight of stairs we were led into what would have been a part of the monastery but is now a private art studio. The room itself was wonderful – so cozy and medieval with an enormous fireplace. Betty Lou was enamored with the art and may pick up a piece before we leave (i am holding her wallet).

The town is positively littered with cafes and eateries of the most alluring nature. Cafes so inviting that I stopped for three espressos in our first three hours. Handmade chocolate shops are everywhere. I found two cigar stores, both with lounges (one of which is fabulous and had an atmosphere in which I am sure to pass a few hours before our stay here is done).

It is comfortably mild out. The sky was sunny when we arrived, but now is raining.

Tomorrow we have some serious sight seeing to do.

Ok, we are going to go back to our room (there is only wireless internet at our hotel so we are using an internet cafe down the street).

Head Aega (that’s good bye in Estonian),

Dale & Betty Lou

Europe Russia Russia Trip 2007

Leaving Leningrad

We have had a fantastic last day in Russia. The sun has been shining all day.

Our first stop was the Aleksander Nevsky Monstery. It was Sunday morning so the church was full of worshippers. We joined in…for about 10 minutes. That was enough to enjoy the voices raised in song – as it is an orthodox service, there is no sitting, which is why we didn’t stay longer, plus, we had to go in search of a certain gentleman we had been eager to find. That’s right…Dostoevsky.

After wandering amongst the fallen and overgrown tombstones we realized we were in the wrong cemetery, and made our way to the far tidier plot which houses the famous graves. We found Dostoevsky, Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky, and others. We were quite pleased.

From there we hopped on the metro to visit the Chesma Cathedral, where Rasputin laid in state after his murder. A stranger church I have never seen. It is pretty and pink, like a cupcake.

We then zipped back downtown to take in the Russian Museum, which had an exhaustive collection of Russian Art, the early 20th century works being my favorites (i.e. Kandinsky). The museum is housed in the former Mikhailovsky palace and is quite impressive.

To close the day we went to the Grand Hotel Europe – bar none the most elegant hotel in the city. We sat in the uber elegant and refined hotel lounge which doubles as a cigar lounge of sorts. We were there for nearly three hours. I had two cigars and vodkas to match. Betty Lou sipped fruity non-alcoholic cocktails and we nibbled on a fine platter of fruit and cheese. It was a perfect way to close our trip.

We are now going back to our room to prepare for our train trip; we leave at 7 am, so it will be an early day.

We both agree that our trip to Russia has been as wonderful and inspiring as we had imagined. Hopefully Estonia will be equally rewarding.

Thank you again for checking in on us.
For the final time,
Da svidanya,
Dale & Betty Lou

Europe Russia Russia Trip 2007

From Russia with Love

Today we did indeed make it to Peterhof, the palace of Peter the Great. The main palace is exquisite – each room decorated in its own unique style. The grounds are enormous. There is an upper garden, designed in the French style and a sprawling lower garden, more in the English tradition. The Palace is surrounded by fountains I can only compare to those at Versailles. The grounds are filled with fountains, and smaller “sub palaces”, surrounded by moats and gardens. One end of the property touches the Gulf of Finland, where Peter the Great would arrive on ship.

We spent most of the day wandering around in the sunshine and taking in the beauty of our surroundings.

We returned to Saint Petersburg (a journey that involved bus & metro), had a sushi dinner on a patio in the sunshine and soon will be back in our room.

Tomorrow will be our final day in Russia and we shall see how much we can fit in.
Good night.
d & b

Europe Russia Russia Trip 2007

Tombs, Tsars, & Pickled Babies

Friday.

At breakfast in the hostel, we met some new guests: a mother and her four daughters visiting from the Yukon (one of whom is here studying), and a retired fellow from Seattle who is traveling around Eastern Europe. They were very friendly.

After breakfast we found a ticket office and booked our train tickets to Tallinn, Estonia (first class, of course). The woman at the counter did not speak any English so I had to rely on my rudimentary Russian (so at least I HOPE I purchased tickets for Estonia). The trains had only recently started running to Estonia again, but will stop later this month due to certain political tensions between the two countries. We leave at 7am on Monday and arrive around 2pm.

We then walked across one of the many bridges spanning the Neva River (i am pleased to report that the weather today has been outstanding) and visited the Kunstkammer – Saint Petersburg’s first museum, established by Peter the Great to display his collection of objects from cultures around the world.

The reason I was so keen to go, however, was to see his collection of oddities and “monsters” – mostly this was jars of pickled and deformed babies. Some had two heads, others enormous tumors, deformed bits and pieces, that sort of thing. There were also stuffed rare animals and a fine display of teeth extracted by Peter the Great himself – along side his many interests (and the running of the Empire) he was also an amateur dentist! Betty Lou was not as enthralled as I with this grotesque miscellany, but I think she enjoyed herself a little bit.

We then walked over another small bridge (there are 300 bridges in the city) to the Peter & Paul Fortress, through the “Death Gate” (many political prisoners were housed and executed there). There was visited the cathedral by the same name where most of the tsars are entombed. Most interestingly, was the small chapel built to house the remains of the Romanovs (who were, of course, slaughtered in 1918).

We had a lovely lunch at an Austrian Cafe (former home of the Russian writer Gorky) before walking back across yet another bridge back downtown. A leisurely coffee and cigar on Nevisky prospect and a bit of shopping has brought us here, to the internet cafe where we wind down from our daily adventures.

Tomorrow we shall head out of the city to visit Peterhof, the Palace of Peter the Great.
That concludes our daily post. Thanks for checking in on us.
Dale & Betty Lou

Europe Russia Russia Trip 2007

Tackling the Hermitage

We awoke to more miserable weather today, which persisted until only a few hours ago. Now it is gorgeous – patio weather. I do not recall if I have mentioned it previously, but the daylight part of the day is so long here. I don’t know what time the sun rises, as we have yet to see this occur (which as many of you will know, is rare for us), but it is up very early and the sky is still light at 10pm. As summer approaches, the days will get even longer, until there is only a few hours of darkness each day.

Ok, enough of those trite observations and on to others.

Today we tackled the Hermitage. It is one of the largest museums in the world and is housed in former palaces of Peter & Catherine (the Great[s]). The building is spectacular – one glittering ballroom and throne room after another and each room hung with art from around the globe: everything from classical portraits & religious art to Picasso and Matisse. After awhile it is overwhelming to be in the presence of so much beauty.

Following the day we wound our way back to The Idiot. We both agreed that a finer mixture of atmosphere and food could not be found. We ate mountains of delicious vegetarian Russian food (yes, it does exist – and nary a potato to be found). I had a little vodka and tea, B had a beverage and we worked on a New York Times Crossword and I wrote postcards while enjoying a cigar. We passed nearly three hours in this blissful manner.

A note in cigar prices (although I don’t know if any of my smoking buddies are reading this): Non-Cuban cigars are very expensive, but Cuban cigars are roughly half the price of what they are in Canada. I am in heaven.

We are now meandering our way back to the room for what we hope will be an earlier night. I have several things to accomplish (i.e. sights to see) before leaving Saint Petersburg, but I have not yet decided what we shall do tomorrow. Perhaps I shall let Betty Lou in on the decision making process….

Alright, that’s it.
So long, farewell…
dale & blou

Europe Russia Russia Trip 2007

St Petersburg, Day 2

Ok, I bought some additional time on the computer. Where was i?

Ah yes, we were tired and cranky.

I am pleased to say that a good night’s sleep had restored us to our good humors and me to my agonizingly verbose self.

This morning we slept in until 9 and then had breakfast at the hostel.

Today is 9 May, which is “Victory Day” in Russia (the day they celebrate their victory over the Nazis and all soldiers lost in war). It is kind of like their fourth of July. There was a huge parade today, which somehow we missed, but the streets are thick with Russians waving flags and sporting ribbons and drinking in celebration.

Due to the holiday, all of the museums and attractions are closed. Churches, shops and restaurants are open. I had planned that we would spend the day walking and exploring parks and the river. We gave it a shot, but it was bitterly cold, raining and windy. After about an hour or so, we were frozen, so we holed up at a little cafe and sat there for a couple hours, enjoying coffee and lunch (I had pancakes with mushrooms & Betty Lou had mushroom soup and pancakes with beef).

We then felt ready to take on the day and I led us on a walking tour that took us to the magnificent Cathedral of our Lady of Kazan and St. Nicholas’ Cathedral. We also walked to Sennaya Ploshchad; it is not much to see today, but back in the day it was a favorite haunt of Dostoevsky and is where he got much of the inspiration for the characters in “Crime and Punishment”. We walked past the colossal Mariinsky Theatre and Yusupov’s Palace, which is notable not only for its beauty, but for the fact that it is where Rasputin was killed.

Just down the street is the most fabulous restaurant/bar called “The Idiot” (after the novel). It is just below street level and is comprised of several small rooms decorated with antique typewriters and furniture, comfy leather sofas and dining tables. It is super cozy – exactly the kind of place one would want to spend several hours engaging in pretentious political or philosophical conversation or working on one’s next novel. Each patron is given a complimentary shot of vodka. We spent some time there. I had vodka and a cigar and Betty Lou enjoyed a non-alcoholic cocktail called “A Little Tenderness”. There we met and chatted with three Canadian students touring with their university symphony.

After that, a walk home, with a detour here, to the Internet cafe.

Tomorrow we plan to tackle the Hermitage.

Ok, I think I have brought everyone up to speed.
Good night.
Until next time,
drn & bln

Europe Russia Russia Trip 2007

The Red Arrow To St. Petersburg

I’m back.

While Betty Lou’s post was a bit terse, it was due largely to hunger and fatigue. Had I written it would have been even shorter and possibly filled with expletives.

First of all: the train. Wow. We arrived at the train station on a dark and rainy night and found the Red Arrow waiting for us in all of its crimson splendor (yeah, Alan, I do go on, but as I recall you pay me to write for your newspaper, so it can’t be THAT bad). The train was beautiful and our car was spectacular. It was very Orient Express, with lovely curtains and crisp linens, etc. We had a table and two bench seats which folded into beds. The table was set with our breakfast which included bread, meat, cheese, yogurt, juice, water, tea, chocolate and caviar. We also were offered a complimentary cocktail (we opted for juice). There was also two complimentary toiletry kits with slippers, eye-masks and the like. The ride was smooth, but just “clickety clack” enough to be soothing and remind us that we were in fact on a train. We slept peacefully and awoke in time to witness our arrival in Saint Petersburg while we breakfasted.

Saint Petersburg.

We caught a taxi to our new abode: The Puppet Theatre Hostel. It is really more of a pension-style hotel than a hostel. our room is on the fifth floor. We have beds, a desk, and wardrobe and we are in the same hall as the breakfast room. I am pleased to report that the bathrooms, while shared, are equipped with hot water. I think it was the most enjoyable shower I have ever had.

Saint Petersburg is quite unlike Moscow. It is very beautiful – more European feeling than Soviet. It is built on and around many rivers and every turn reveals a beautiful bridge or palace or cathedral. There are many signs in English here and far more people speak it as well. The whole city is just very manageable. Also, while in Moscow, we rode the Metro constantly, here we can walk nearly everywhere.

Yesterday the weather was lovely and warm and we sat on a patio and had coffee, and I enjoyed a Hoyo Epicure No.2.

After that, we walked all around the city…for nearly nine hours. We went to the famous Cathedral of the Spilled Blood, an Armenian Church, walked Nevisky Prospekt, lunched at the Literary Cafe (where Pushkin supped before heading off to meet his fate in a duel). Betty Lou bought a small balalaika at souvenir market. We also visited St. Isaac’s Cathedral – one of the largest in Europe. It was quite spectacular and allows one to climb a set of winding stairs up to the outside of the cuppola, where you can walk the perimeter and take in breathtaking views of the city. Betty Lou made it about 90% of the way up and froze. I had to coax her up, as there was no going back the way she came. Who knew she was so afraid of heights? I don’t know that she enjoyed that particular experience, but I was proud of her for making it to the top.

After all that we were quite exhausted.

….Ok, I am about to run out of time on this computer so I must post this. Will return shortly.

Europe Russia Russia Trip 2007

Hello from Saint Petersburg

We made it to St. Petersburg in style. The Red Arrow was fantastic. It was very luxurious and we felt like royalty. This is me, BLou, posting so the entry will be short and to the point.

We have done a self-guided (Dale guided) walking tour today which took in various palaces and cathedrals.

We are hungry and going to eat. More later.

Europe Russia Russia Trip 2007

Da Svidaniya, Moscow

Well it is our final day in Moscow and it is rapidly drawing to a close. It is 9:45pm and in about an hour we will head to the train station to catch our midnight train to St. Petersburg. That train is the famous “Red Arrow” and we have a private sleeper car booked. I suspect that it will be either completely romantic and charming or hideously uncomfortable.

While I can’t speak for Betty Lou (she isn’t with me at the moment), I am not sad to be leaving Moscow, in that we have done the things we set out to do. A person could spend a month here are not see everything, I suspect, but we have made a good effort. The only thing about Moscow that I will be sorry to leave behind is the sense of familiarity we have developed in the past week. By now, the metro is a breeze and finding our way around is not too difficult. Going to St. Petersburg means starting anew, but we are ready for the challenge.

Today was a bit of a struggle. Both Betty Lou and I were feeling tired and worn out. I had planned a grand day of visiting the beautiful Novodevichy Convent and cemetery – pick a famous Russian, they’re all buried there (including Yeltsin). We arrived on this, the most warm and sunny of days, and the place was closed. It is supposed to be open on Mondays, but, much like Lenin’s tomb, it was closed. I was warned that Russian sights were like that; closed without warning. I was very disappointed. The alternative places we could have visited in (its) stead were all closed on Mondays. So we went to Gorky Park.

Gorky Park might be a swell place to visit on a weekend, as it has paddle boast and amusement rides, but on a Monday it was a ghost town. The rides were open, but no one was on them, It was out of a horror movie (I thought). Not “Children of the Corn”; more like “Funhouse”.

After that we meandered back to GUM for coffee and ice cream (where I fell asleep sitting up at the table) and took one last lingering look at Red Square and St. Basil’s. In Red Square rehearsal was taking place for the Victory Day Celebrations on May 9th. There was marching and Russian voices filling the square.

We then went over to Theatre Square for a loooong dinner (2.5 hours-a record for us). It left us feeling sated and relaxed.

Now we wait to go to the train.

I would like, before departing from Moscow to make a few observations which I may have previously overlooked:

There is no litter anywhere; nor are there any garbage cans

Pointy shoes are very popular for both men and women, as is black leather.

Kopecks (100 of which make up 1 Rouble) are still in circulation, but nothing is ever priced such that you would need to use them. They are kept around for nostalgia’s sake. In case you are curious, you get about 25 Roubles for $1 and an espresso costs about 90 Roubles

Ivan the Terrible was the ruler who ordered the building of St. Basil’s Cathedral. The architect was Postnik Yakovlev. After the building was complete, Ivan the Terrible was so impressed by its beauty that he had the architect blinded so he could never create anything to rival it. They didn’t call him “Terrible” for nothing.

Ok, that’s all from Moscow. We will post again from St. Petersburg when we can.
Happy Trails,
Dale Raven & Betty Lou North

Europe Russia Russia Trip 2007

Sunday in the Park

Another day in Moscow.

Today I had this brilliant plan to take the metro to Izmailovsky Park where there was supposed to be a quaint market selling handcrafted items. We arrived and found the market, which was a sprawling flea market of sorts which I can best liken to a cross between the Hialeah Ghetto market (in Miami), the Richmond Night Market and Canal Street in New York….for those of you who still can’t get a visual: it was tents and enclosures filling maybe a football field selling clothing and housewares, toys, food and any other item you could imagine. It was extremely crowded and from what we could tell we were the only non-Russians there. It was not at all what I was expecting, but it was interesting to see where many Russians seem to do their shopping.

After fleeing that scene we went back “downtown” to the Kremlin, where we got an espresso and ice cream (when in Moscow…) and sat outside at a cafe on a promenade in the sun. The weather today was FANTASTIC. Snow? What snow? While sitting outside I was so warm I removed my jacket and scarf. Heaven.

After that we went to the Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts which was especially crowded due to a recently opened Modigliani exhibit. I was a bit disappointed with the museum, as the impressionist works I had been keen to see were in closed wings. There were a few rooms, however, of lovely Flemish and Dutch paintings from the 17th Century.

We then walked back to Ulitsa Arbat for dinner at the same cafe we ate at last night. I had the most exquisite chocolate dessert. Now we are back at the hostel. Yesterday it was filled with Germans, today it is literally crawling with children; the kind that stand too close and stare at you….in fact, they are doing it now….creepy.

Tomorrow is our final day in Moscow. We catch the midnight train to St. Petersburg tomorrow night.

Good night.
d & b

Tag: Russia