Harar Archives - Wandering North

Africa Ethiopia Ethiopia Trip 2015

Gondar

My trip from Harar to Gondar was a long one. First i had to get from Harar to the airport in Dire Dawa, then i had to fly to Addis Ababa and catch a connecting flight to Gondar. I had this all planned, but then the first of my two flights was delayed, causing my to miss the connecting flight to Gondar, which was the only flight to Gondar that day. I was temporarily annoyed, but i didn’t have anything planned and i really had more than enough time in Gondar, so i headed back into Addis for the night and stayed at an unremarkable hotel that was well appointed but entirely without charm (and without running water as it turned out).

I stayed the night there and didn’t do much but wander around the neighbourhood, which added to my initial impression of Addis that the entire city is either falling apart or under construction, which makes it very interesting to explore but not picturesque.

The next morning i headed to Gondar, successfully this time. I am staying at the Lodge du Chateau, about which i cannot say enough good things. It is so cute and cozy, with little thatched roof rooms set around a small garden courtyard and with a roof top, outdoor area for breakfast and taking in the mountain views. The service is great and there is hot, running water. An oasis.

Gondar is located in north east Ethiopia, towards the border with the Sudan and is in or in the foothills of the Semian Mountains. Gondar is actually a proper big city, but staying in the centre, near the historical sites, it feels like a small town and is walkable and easy to navigate.

There are really two main reasons that one comes to Gondar: hiking and castles. I started with castles. There are several small castles and related buildings and ruins here dating to the 1600s. Not the sort of thing one expects to see in Ethiopia. They would look right at home in the UK. It was a beautiful, sunny day and lovely for walking around the structures and was especially peaceful due to the very few tourists.

I also went out to Fasalada’s Bath (it’s more like a pool really) which is only filled with water for religious ceremonies, but is nevertheless a peaceful place to visit and had amazing trees, reminiscent of the temples at Siem Reap, in that their vines are slowly choking the ruins.

After that i wandered through the market. The markets i have seen so far in Ethiopia have been great places to visit, but they really are pretty limited in their produce. The fruit has been limited to bananas, papaya, mango and lime. And the vegetables: potato, tomato, onion, garlic, carrots, and cabbage. Mostly the markets have everything else: spices, shoes, sundry items, clothes, grains, flour, firewood, and livestock. It is all chaotic and very dirty (which is how i like my markets). Seriously, i have never seen so many sheep and goats in my life. Sometimes i’ve seen a man buy a sheep at market and then carry the sheep on his shoulders. The sheep looks so relaxed, like, “This is the best deal ever. I get carried now?” And i just think, poor guy. You have no idea what is in store for you. Actually, the most distressing thing i saw at the market by far was a man with no hands or feet lying in the street in a pile of garbage, partially covered by a blanket. You see that sort of thing a lot here, but i found that instance disturbing.

Later in the day i just wandered around, stopping for coffee periodically. It’s a really pleasant place with lots of birdsong, trees, and mountains in the distance.

After dinner of injera and lentils, i went back to the hotel and found that the whole neighborhood had been blackened with a power outrage – this seems to be a common occurrence in the country. Thankfully, the hotel and provided a little candle lantern, so i read by candlelight until it was time for sleep. It was a thoroughly enjoyable first day on Gondar and worth the wait to arrive here.

Africa Ethiopia Ethiopia Trip 2015

The Final Wander in Harar

My final day in Harar was spent walking and exploring in search of those places i had not yet found. (Yes, i know i could have just paid someone to show me all of the hidden gems of the old city, but it is more fun for me to find them myself.)

I changed some money at the bank, which was slow but painless. At this point, after three days here, everywhere i go – including the bank – i am running into people i have already met. It’s a bit more friendly social interaction than i am used to, but everyone is very nice and, contrary to what i had read beforehand, not everyone is after your money.

Anyway, i walked back through the colorful chaos of the market around the Shoa Gate and went through the part where the sell the incense used in coffee ceremonies. I then wandered somewhat aimlessly, but with the goal of leaving no nook unseen. I walked down to the livestock market, which is a large open area outside the city walls where there is a daily sale of cows, sheep, and goats. It seemed to lack any order, but i had a nice time walking through and taking in the scene.

I then found the one one thing that had been eluding me, even though i had, as it turned out, walked by it several times: Emir Nur’s tomb. Emir Nur was the fellow who apparently built the walls around the old city, which is notable and i understand that it is a very important shrine for the city, but the reason i wanted to see it is because it looks so weird, like a spiky, green avocado. It was not only weird looking, but very peaceful and was worth the hunt.

After that it was time for a coffee, which i had in what appeared to be the back room of a shop, under a roof made of UN refugee tarps. They went through the whole coffee ceremony, lighting incense, roasting the beans over hot coals, pounding the beans in a mortar with a pestle, and the boiling the coffee with water in a clay jug over a fire. Fantastic. I don’t know why they aren’t offering this manner of coffee preparation at the slow bar at Seattle Coffeeworks. They could charge $20 a cup and hipster coffee fiends would gladly pay.

Anyway, while i was waiting for the coffee, it started to pour rain to such a degree that leaving became an impossibility. So i waited it out, watching the rain and the group of people who had also taken shelter within. When the rain stopped, i meandered back to my hotel for smoking and reading.

That was pretty much my day. Satisfying and relaxing. I’m ready for the next stop on my itinerary: Gondar.

Africa Ethiopia Ethiopia Trip 2015

Hyenas in Harar

One of the reasons I wanted to come to Harar was because every night, just after dark, there is a man who feeds raw meat to wild hyenas. He had been doing it for years, as his father did before him, possibly as a way to keep them from eating his livestock. The hyenas live all around Harar and have a close relationship to the city – sometimes coming in to the city at night to scavenge scraps left over from the market. And there are annual rituals where hyenas are fed porridge as a way to secure a good year ahead. But the really cool thing is, you can go and watch the hyena man feeding the hyenas, and for a small donation you can feed them too. This has become a popular tourist activity.

I went, with a guy i paid to show me the way to the hyena man’s house. I was so glad i had him with me because i never would have found it on my own. We left the old city and walked down a dirt road into the countryside. The walk was fairly long and was made difficult by the fact that it was pitch black. No street lights, lights from houses, cars, etc. nothing. Just stars and a rough road to contend with. It felt very unsafe, but was also slightly scary, due to my fear of the dark and the horrible sounds of hyenas in the distance. They really do may horrible noises. Fears aside, it was nice to be outside, hearing all the nature sounds and seeing the stars. Finally we got to the hyena man’s house and there he was, surrounded by hyenas, with more lurking in the shadows, with only their eyes shining out of the darkness. He had a big basket of meat and there were a few other tourists there (who had prudently arrived by van) who were taking turns feeding the hyenas. They each looked so scared as they went that i was sure it would be mildly terrifying.

Finally it was my turn. I kneeled down next to the basket of meat and the hyena man must have held some meat over my head, because while i was distracted by the 2 hyenas near my face, another hyena jumped in my back and stayed there for what seemed like forever. It was heavy, which was not surprising, given that they are fairly large and solid muscle. (Did i mention that they are second only to crocodiles in terms of their jaw strength and that they can pulverize bone with their teeth?)

I then took a small stick and put it between my teeth and the hyena man hung raw meat on it and in moments, a hyena snatched it away, coming inches from my face. Weirdly, it was not intimidating at all. The walk there was far scarier. It was just very cool. And watching them interacting and laughing their horrible hyena laughs was amazing.

The walk back seemed far less scary.

After that, i just went for some lentils and injera, had a cigar and went to bed, reflecting on the adventures of the day.

Africa Ethiopia Ethiopia Trip 2015

Hararian Hospitality

Today in Harar started with rain but quickly dried out leaving the air cool and perfect for walking.

I returned to the old city and embarked on a new route. I visited the other church in Harar (there are 2 churches and countless mosques – well, actually someone told me there are 99 mosques, but i have not fact checked that) and several tiny mosques, which were virtually hidden behind walls and houses.

I could wander here for ages. It’s like a medieval Muslim maze. You turn down these tiny alleys with no idea where they will lead: to someone’s house, a dead end, a bustling market, one of the gates into the city, a mosque…it’s endlessly fascinating.

I visited the Harar coffee roasting company, where the coffee smelled amazing, but coming in 1 kilo bags, i don’t think I’ll be bringing any home. I went to the Shoa gate, which is now my favourite of the six gates into the old city. It is a crowded market place with people selling vegetables and fruit, bread and meat. There are also a few women cooking and serving food while seated on the ground. One woman saw me looking and said “ful”, which i have only ever has as a breakfast dish in Egypt. It is mashed beans cooked with tomato, onion and spices. After some communication issues i managed to ask and understand that it was 5 birr (about 25 cents). The woman mashed the ingredients in a tiny pot over hot coals and then it was ready to eat with a piece of bread for dipping. Delicious.

I hadn’t seen much in the way of street food here until that. Just samosas, French fries, and a few sweets.

After lunch i went back to the coffee place to meet up with a guy i had met there as we had made plans for coffee and shisha. We went to his friend’s house, which was basically two rooms with an outdoor cooking area and toilet. Inside, 5 guys were reclined on a cushion covered floor, chewing chat. Chat is a plant, or rather the leaves of a plant, that is ubiquitous here (in other countries as well – and especially Yemen, I’m told, but Harar is the first place I’ve seen it). It is sold by the bagful on the streets and everywhere you see people chewing it, often while reclined, the effects are reportedly increased wakefulness and pensive thought and if you chew enough of it you achieve ‘merkana’ (spelled phonetically), a peaceful and relaxed state. The guy whose house it was gave me a handful to try. It tastes awful, bitter, like a vegetable that you shouldn’t eat. Often they chew peanuts with it to kill the taste. One handful was enough for me. I did not notice any effects.

Then they started the coffee ceremony. There was a young woman who did all of the work (of course). She took a pot of hot coals and sprinkled incense on it. Then she took another pan of coals and, using a shallow pan, roasted fresh coffee beans. This smelled amazing. Then she took the pan outside and pounded the beans into a fine powder with a heavy metal rod. Then, very slowly, the coffee was mixed with water in a clay pitcher and heated over a fire. The coffee was served in tiny cups ad, oh my god, it was the best, freshest coffee ever. This was repeated until everyone had 3 cups – they said you need 3 cups: one for the eyes, one for satisfaction, and one to think “all of the thoughts”.

All if this occurred while we smoked shisha and listened to music – a mix of traditional Egyptian, Swahili hip hop, and Lil Wayne. The whole experience lasted about 3 and a half hours and was very relaxing, a great experience.

Africa Ethiopia Ethiopia Trip 2015

Harar: The Old City

I keep reading that Harar is “the fourth holiest city is Islam”. I don’t know if this is true, but it is a Muslim city and has an extraordinary, walled old town which is crammed with tiny mosques and shrines, and women covered head to toe in colorful dress.

Harar was founded in either the 10thC or 13thC and its old walled city, which has 368 alleyways in a 1sq kilometer space is absolutely magical. The alleys wind their way around courtyarded residences, tiny mosques, shrines, markets, shops, and churches, and the streets are lined by women selling vegetables and chat, roasting coffee, and weaving baskets. Men and children tend to cows and goats. The buildings, which have a slight Flintstonian quality in their shape and construction and ether white or painted bright hues. Everything begs to be photographed, except that people aren’t keen on it, and i can’t say i blame them. They’re not putting on a show. They’re just getting on with their lives.

I walked around aimlessly for hours and still didn’t see everything, but this is why i gave myself more an one day here. I wanted to be at liberty be at leisure.

One thing that gets a bit wearing is the friendliness of the people. This is not unique to Ethiopia, but here i am. People are very friendly. Anyone who knows a bit of English wants to say hello and ask where i am from. That is fine, but many of them will just walk along side me and keep talking to me or when i am sitting at a cafe will sit down and just start asking me questions. Some of them are guides looking for business, but most of them just want to talk. I don’t know if this would be different if i was not alone. And of course there are comments from men on my appearance. While it is nice to talk to people to learn about the culture and their experiences, sometimes i just want to be left alone to walk or sit in silence.

Last night i went out for a traditional Ethiopian dinner, which is injera – a large, thin pancake made of tef, which i find both sour and delicious – and on it are dollops of different stews or meats. Fortunately, as Ethiopians have 2 fasting days (vegetarian days) per week, you can order fasting food and get a feast of spicy lentils, different vegetables, and other delights. You eat the food with the injera, but tearing off pieces and using them to pick up the food. No utensils allowed. This suits me quite nicely. It was delicious and very cheap.

I walked back to the hotel after dinner, down streets that were pitch black and filled with large holes and speeding vehicles and people. Like a huge dork, i carried a flashlight, both to make myself visible, to cars and to avoid falling down. I’m sure i was mocked for my cautiousness, but at least i arrived at the hotel in one piece. It did, however, start to pour rain on my walk back and i returned drenched. The rain continues this morning, but appears to be subsiding, so i am waiting a bit over breakfast and blogging.

Speaking of breakfast, i ate outside, under an awning, and watched two men lead three small goats out of a house an into a shed, one by one. It was quite cute. A fourth goat tried to follow, but was ushered back inside the house. Then i heard the horrible, shrill cries of the goats as they were slaughtered. I’m not passing judgment. People can do what they like, but I’ve never actually heard that sound before and don’t care to again. Of course, this is what i travel for: new experiences.

Africa Ethiopia Ethiopia Trip 2015

The Road to Harar

I got up insanely early this morning to catch a taxi to the airport. It was still dark out but there were men out…exercising. I saw guys doing pushups off the sidewalk and groups of men out jogging – some while carrying rifles.

Security at the airport was a breeze and the flight was short. To get to Harar, unless you are driving, you fly to a city called Dire Dawa and then catch some vehicular transport from there. I took a taxi from the airport to the train station in Dire Dawa.

The trains haven’t run in years, but the station was a good starting point for a walk around. I couldn’t leave without taking a look. On one side of the river (well, the river no longer has water in it. It’s just a dusty thoroughfare for goats and a dumping ground for trash) the town has nice leafy streets with a few good cafes and an orderly feel.

On the other side the town is a bit more chaotic and distinctly Muslim, with hints at the sort of architecture i will see in Harar.

I enjoyed the wander at first, but then i realized i had no idea where to catch a minibus out of the city. So i just kept walking, with my backpack, dodging 3 wheeled tuk tuk type things, donkeys pulling carts, dudes who were a little too friendly, kids who kept trying to hold my hand, and people on the streets selling random items, sewing clothes, and making furniture.

Just when i started to get hot and tired, i broke down to ask directions, having no luck in Amharic, i walked into a cafe and said “does anyone speak English?” One guy put up his hand and he offered to walk me to where i could catch a minibus. Very kind. The journey was just over an hour and cost about $2. The scenery was more deserty, with dry green shrubbery and people engaging in the necessities of rural life.

Finally i was let off just outside the gates to the old city. I am not staying in the old city, which i am staying near to. My hotel is the Ras Hotel, which is old but decent. The only drawback though is that there is no water. The man at the desk was not sure when the water would be restored, but they have put a nice big bucket of water in my room with a ladle, so i guess that works. Plus, i now know the Amharic word for water. The power has already gone out twice and there are vultures outside my window, but it is all just fine. I am now having a cigar before i head back to the old city to look around.
All is well.

Tag: Harar