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Wandering North

Chronicling my travel adventures since 2007

  • Home
  • About Me
  • Where I’ve Been
  • Destinations
    • Africa
      • Algeria
      • Benin
      • Botswana
      • Burkina Faso
      • Côte d’Ivoire
      • Democratic Republic of the Congo
      • Djibouti
      • Egypt
      • Eritrea
      • Ethiopia
      • Ghana
      • Mauritania
      • Morocco
      • Rwanda
      • Senegal
      • South Sudan
      • Sudan
      • Togo
      • Tunisia
      • Uganda
      • Zambia
      • Zimbabwe
    • Asia
      • Azerbaijan
      • Bangladesh
      • Brunei Darussalam
      • Cambodia
      • China
      • Cyprus
      • Georgia (the country)
      • Hong Kong
      • India
      • Indonesia
      • Iraq
      • Japan
      • Jordan
      • Kazakhstan
      • Kyrgyzstan
      • Laos
      • Myanmar (Burma)
      • Malaysia
      • Nepal
      • Oman
      • Pakistan
      • Philippines
      • Qatar
      • Saudi Arabia
      • Singapore
      • South Korea
      • Taiwan
      • Thailand
      • Turkey
      • United Arab Emirates
      • Uzbekistan
      • Vietnam
    • Europe
      • Albania
      • Andorra
      • Belarus
      • Belgium
      • Bosnia and Herzegovina
      • Bulgaria
      • Croatia
      • Denmark
      • England
      • Estonia
      • Finland
      • France
      • Germany
      • Greece
      • Iceland
      • Ireland
      • Italy
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    • South America
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      • Ecuador
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Tag: Colombia

Posted inColombia South America

Candelaria by Night

Last night after my post, i met a couple of guys here at the hostel and went our for dinner. We walked several blocks through streets that were fairly quiet and then stumbled into areas that were filled with people – young people and families and children seemingly out on their own. It hardly seemed dangerous. I’m sure that at a certain point the crowds thin out and perhaps it then gets sketchy, but Calandaria after dark is not the threatening enclave that i had been warned about. Plus, there are police and private security guards on most corners, wearing uniforms and carrying machine guns, so it doesn’t feel unsafe. And it was so beautiful out; cool and breezy and quite pleasant.

I slept well in my bed. It is quite chilly at night, but i was cozy. It does feel a bit like camping as one must go outside and through the courtyard to reach the toilets and showers, but when the courtyards are so lovely, it seems ok.

I awoke this morning to a pounding headache – most likely a result of the altitude, but it is only temporary. Anyway, i had just had the rather modest breakfast provided at the hostel and i will be soon off exploring.

So far so good. I am exceedingly happy.
d

Read More about Candelaria by Night
Posted on 19 May 13
0
Posted inColombia South America

Bogota – first impressions

I have arrived! I landed in Bogota this afternoon and made my way into the city by taxi. I am staying at the Anandamayi Hostel which is ridiculously beautiful. It is an old colonial house surrounding three courtyards filled with hammocks, little ponds, flowering trees, and hummingbird likd creatures. My room is whitewashed with rustic wood beams. There are shared bathrooms and a rustic kitchen for guests to cook and take breakfast. It appears to be run by young women who are very helpful but do not speak English. This is all very charming and i can’t wait to end the day in a hammock looking at the stars.

After settling in i went for a wander through the Caldalaria district (where my hostel is), which is the historic part of town.

I walked through the Bolivar plaza, which is surrounded by stately government buildings and filled with buskers, protesters, fruit sellers, and llamas. Llamas everywhere! They are probably just brough in for tourists to take photos of, but still: llamas! Not surprisingly i walked all afternoon through the streets of this neighborhood. The streets are rough, shabby, dirty and filled with dangerous holes, but they are also lined with beautifully colored colonial-style buildings with balconies and flowers; many of these buildings housing tiny cafes and bodegas. There are vendors everywhere selling candy, cigarettes, fruit, corn, and fresh juice. I have seen numerous groups of buskers playing what i can old call Colombian style salsa. It is terrific. One of the groups attracted a group of old men in suits who were salsa dancing solo for almost an hour for a crowd of onlookers. It was very entertaining.

I tried a few Colombian treats today. I went to a famous cafe called La Puerta Falsa and had Chocolate Completo, which is dark hot chocolate served with bread and butter and white cheese. You tear off pieces of the cheese and put it in the hot chocolate until it gets all melty and then you eat it with a spoon and dunk in the bread and butter. Marvelous. I can’t believe i have never had this before. I also tried some new fruit. No idea what it was but it was hard and fibrous and orange and served with honey. I didn’t care for it. For dinner i bought an arepa con queso from a street vendor cooking them over coals and had a chicha, which is a type of corn based beer. I don’t like beer, but this is quite different and i thought i should try it. It doesn´t taste anything like beer, but more like a thick fermented bready grog. It wasn´t bad, but i don´t think i would have it again. I smoked a lovely partagas torpedo on a street called the Funnel, which is a narrow, colorful street, filled with bars and cafes and young kids drinking beer and smoking in the street.

The city has so much amazing graffiti. Certainly some of it is just sloppy but much of it is amazing and ranges from whimsical to political. On the note of art, i visited the Botero museum today, which features, Botero’s bright, obese figures but also a good collection of art by Picasso, Ernst, etc. It was small but very impressive.

 

So far i have not encountered anyone who speaks ensligh, including the women who run the hostel, so i am relying on my rudimentary spanish, complemented by lots of smiling and nodding.

Ok, that is sort of a jumbled introduction, but i have only been here a half a day and am suffering from a combination of mild jet lag and mild altitude sickness, which has manifested itself in a headache. I think i might go out and see if the area is a dangerous as everyone suggested.

I will write again tomorrow. Sorry for the typos. i am not proof reading and it is a weird keyboard.
That is all for now.
Adios.
d

Read More about Bogota – first impressions
Posted on 18 May 13
0
Posted inColombia South America

Choosing Colombia

Recently realizing that I had some cash and some time – but not a lot of either – I decided to go somewhere. Having only 10 days from Vancouver rules out a lot of places, like Africa. There just isn’t enough time. And right now I’m not keen to go to Europe. It’s all starting to feel similar and my sense of wonder has faded, so it’s time to take a break. So I decided to look south. I had good luck with a quick jaunt to Ecuador a few years ago, so I thought why not go to Colombia?

I don’t really know why I picked it, except that I had done some reading on Colombia a while ago, exploring it as a possible destination. (The fact that i recently watched Romancing the Stone is probably just a coincidence.) I’ve never known much about Colombia aside from the usual: coffee, jungles, cocaine, FARC, Gabriel Garcia Marquez, and Botero. Not knowing a lot about a country is always a good reason to visit: you’re guaranteed to learn something and unlikely to be disappointed. Colombia looks awesome with everything from beaches to mountains, picturesque rural areas and modern cities. Only having a limited amount of time, I decided on Bogota and Cartagena. Typical, I know, but there must be reasons that people flock to these cities. They both look dynamic and lively, and filled with history, architecture, music, and markets, and of course, Cartagena also has tropical beaches with hammocks – perfect for lazy cigar smoking.

The thing that most people seem to associate with Colombia, aside from coffee and cocaine, seems to be violence. It is not a reputation that is undeserved, but apparently the levels of murder and kidnapping have been in decline. I’m not concerned about this at all, but everyone around me seems to be, telling me that I’m sure to be a victim of violent crime. (Thanks, well-wishers!) I keep reading that one must keep their wits about them, avoid certain areas at night, and keep an eye on their wallet, etc. But isn’t that true everywhere? I don’t know of a place where it would be advisable to wander drunk on a desolate street in a bad neighborhood, leaving your wallet slightly protruding from your back pocket. When i was in Ecuador, everyone told me Quito was dangerous, but I wandered after dark by myself without issue. Bogota may have some legitimate safety concerns, but I’ll see what it’s like when I arrive and I’ll behave accordingly. My favorite piece of travel advice I’ve read so far is “keep your shirt untucked and over your fanny pack”. Really? The assumption that the readers of this particular travel book wear fanny packs is a strong sign I’m reading the wrong book. Anyway, like i said, I’m not concerned and i look forward to reporting in a few weeks that everyone’s concerns were unnecessary. Either that or i’ll be kidnapped or mugged and then all of my friends can have a good “i told you so” laugh at my expense.

But I’m focused not on muggers, but on mangos, architecture, late night salsa bars, coffee, hammocks, colorful squares, smoking indoors, bustling & filthy markets, and crowded boats & buses to new destinations. I’m sure it will be amazing and i can’t wait.

Read More about Choosing Colombia
Posted on 14 May 13
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About Wandering North

Welcome to Wandering North, where I have been blogging about my travels since 2007.

Dale Raven North

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