Skip to content
  • Home
  • About Me
  • Where I’ve Been
  • Destinations
    • Africa
      • Algeria
      • Benin
      • Botswana
      • Burkina Faso
      • Côte d’Ivoire
      • Democratic Republic of the Congo
      • Djibouti
      • Egypt
      • Eritrea
      • Ethiopia
      • Ghana
      • Mauritania
      • Morocco
      • Rwanda
      • Senegal
      • South Sudan
      • Sudan
      • Togo
      • Tunisia
      • Uganda
      • Zambia
      • Zimbabwe
    • Asia
      • Azerbaijan
      • Bangladesh
      • Brunei Darussalam
      • Cambodia
      • China
      • Cyprus
      • Georgia (the country)
      • Hong Kong
      • India
      • Indonesia
      • Iraq
      • Japan
      • Jordan
      • Kazakhstan
      • Kyrgyzstan
      • Laos
      • Myanmar (Burma)
      • Malaysia
      • Nepal
      • Oman
      • Pakistan
      • Philippines
      • Qatar
      • Saudi Arabia
      • Singapore
      • South Korea
      • Taiwan
      • Thailand
      • Turkey
      • United Arab Emirates
      • Uzbekistan
      • Vietnam
    • Europe
      • Albania
      • Andorra
      • Belarus
      • Belgium
      • Bosnia and Herzegovina
      • Bulgaria
      • Croatia
      • Denmark
      • England
      • Estonia
      • Finland
      • France
      • Germany
      • Greece
      • Iceland
      • Ireland
      • Italy
      • Latvia
      • Liechtenstein
      • Lithuania
      • Luxembourg
      • Malta
      • Moldova
      • Monaco
      • Montenegro
      • Netherlands
      • North Macedonia
      • Norway
      • Poland
      • Portugal
      • Romania
      • Russia
      • San Marino
      • Scotland
      • Serbia
      • Slovenia
      • Spain
      • Sweden
      • Switzerland
      • Ukraine
      • United Kingdom
      • Vatican City
    • North America
      • Belize
      • Canada
      • Cuba
      • El Salvador
      • Guatemala
      • Mexico
      • Nicaragua
      • Panama
      • USA
    • South America
      • Argentina
      • Brazil
      • Colombia
      • Ecuador
      • Paraguay
      • Peru
      • Uruguay
      • Venezuela
  • Contact
Menu

Wandering North

Chronicling my travel adventures since 2007

  • Home
  • About Me
  • Where I’ve Been
  • Destinations
    • Africa
      • Algeria
      • Benin
      • Botswana
      • Burkina Faso
      • Côte d’Ivoire
      • Democratic Republic of the Congo
      • Djibouti
      • Egypt
      • Eritrea
      • Ethiopia
      • Ghana
      • Mauritania
      • Morocco
      • Rwanda
      • Senegal
      • South Sudan
      • Sudan
      • Togo
      • Tunisia
      • Uganda
      • Zambia
      • Zimbabwe
    • Asia
      • Azerbaijan
      • Bangladesh
      • Brunei Darussalam
      • Cambodia
      • China
      • Cyprus
      • Georgia (the country)
      • Hong Kong
      • India
      • Indonesia
      • Iraq
      • Japan
      • Jordan
      • Kazakhstan
      • Kyrgyzstan
      • Laos
      • Myanmar (Burma)
      • Malaysia
      • Nepal
      • Oman
      • Pakistan
      • Philippines
      • Qatar
      • Saudi Arabia
      • Singapore
      • South Korea
      • Taiwan
      • Thailand
      • Turkey
      • United Arab Emirates
      • Uzbekistan
      • Vietnam
    • Europe
      • Albania
      • Andorra
      • Belarus
      • Belgium
      • Bosnia and Herzegovina
      • Bulgaria
      • Croatia
      • Denmark
      • England
      • Estonia
      • Finland
      • France
      • Germany
      • Greece
      • Iceland
      • Ireland
      • Italy
      • Latvia
      • Liechtenstein
      • Lithuania
      • Luxembourg
      • Malta
      • Moldova
      • Monaco
      • Montenegro
      • Netherlands
      • North Macedonia
      • Norway
      • Poland
      • Portugal
      • Romania
      • Russia
      • San Marino
      • Scotland
      • Serbia
      • Slovenia
      • Spain
      • Sweden
      • Switzerland
      • Ukraine
      • United Kingdom
      • Vatican City
    • North America
      • Belize
      • Canada
      • Cuba
      • El Salvador
      • Guatemala
      • Mexico
      • Nicaragua
      • Panama
      • USA
    • South America
      • Argentina
      • Brazil
      • Colombia
      • Ecuador
      • Paraguay
      • Peru
      • Uruguay
      • Venezuela
  • Contact

Tag: caves

Posted inMexico North America

Playa del Carmen: making lawyers & memories

I had never traveled for business before and didn’t have any realistic hopes to. I’m a lawyer, I live in Vancouver and so do most of my clients. But then, a couple of days before New Years Eve, an opportunity asserted itself.

Lawyers in Canada have to article for one year after law school before they actually become lawyers. On the completion of the final day, they take an oath, which is given to them by their principal (the lawyer who supervised them throughout their articles). I had such an articling law student and she had calculated her date to take the oath as being in early January, but, due to various things that I won’t get into, she burst into my office on the 27th in a panic. She had miscalculated and her call date was actually December 29th, but she was going to Mexico on the 28th.

I pointed out that there was no reason that she could not take the oath in January when she returned, but she didn’t want to delay it. “Well, I guess we could do it in Mexico,” I said, jokingly. Her eyes lit up. She loved this idea. She is from Mexico and suddenly thought that taking the oath in Mexico was the best idea ever. So that’s what we did.

I booked a flight for that night, picked a hotel, and arrived in Playa del Carmen (where she was going) the next late morning. (Going to Playa del Carmen means flying to Cancun and taking a bus or taxi to Playa del Carmen.)

I checked into my Hotel Hul-Ku which was just a couple blocks off of 5th Avenue the main pedestrian street and tourist thoroughfare. But I didn’t have a lot of time. In about an hour my articling student picked me up and drove us to a private, picturesque beach.

The pool at my hotel
Hotel hammocks

On the beach, inexplicably in such a short time, she had set up a table dressed with a white cloth, flower arrangements, and custom helium balloons that spelled out her name, “Canadian Lawyer”, and displayed the Canadian flag. She had hired a professional photographer and assembled a group of friends. It was so fancy; it looked like we were getting married.

I gave a speech, posed for some photos, and gave the oath. Just like that, she became a lawyer, and I was free to enjoy the rest of my weekend in Playa del Carmen.

Selfie in front of some colorful graffiti

It was unusual for me. I usually love to do weeks or months of planning and studying for my trips, but that wasn’t possible here. I had no time to prepare, so I just wandered. That proved to be fine.

Playa del Carmen is super touristy. The touristy areas are great to walk and grab a bite to eat on a patio, drink a frosty drink (or, if you’re me, a hot coffee). It is a great way to spend a leisurely day.

freshly rolled cigars

I enjoyed the color and festive atmosphere.

And, if you poke around, there is some excellent street art.

But it is also kind of expensive and it is full of the worst kind of tourists. Drunk, inconsiderate, annoying. On the plus side, it was easy to get away from the tourists and just walk around eating and drinking cheaply.

That is basically what I did for the rest of that day and most of the rest. (I still had some work to do, but I got to do it on my laptop on a patio whilst smoking cigars. Not bad.)

On December the 31st I decided to do something more adventurous. I visited some cenotes. The area on the Yucatan Peninsula is riddled with cenotes. Basically, they are a bunch of underground caves (sometimes open at the top and sometimes completely subterranean) connected by a vast underground river in the jungle. I couldn’t take my camera with me, so I have no pictures, but take a minute and google image search “cenotes”. Go ahead, i’ll wait.
…
Amazing, right? Some are magical lagoons and others spooky underwater lairs. All are incredible.

To enter the system we went two by two on harnesses, rappelling down into a cenote, then finally dropping into the water at the bottom. Yes, it was a bit scary before I actually started the descent (and I was the first to go) but once i was on my way it was amazing. And at the bottom…stalactites and stalagmites so weird and wonderful that it didn’t even seem real, but it was. I loved swimming around and peering down the dark pathways where the river went farther than we were allowed.

In others it was pitch black and we snorkelled with the aid of a small torch. That was great. So spooky to be in water where you could see absolutely nothing save where you shone your light. Below, in places, the ground gave way to a deep crevasse that our lights would not penetrate. Occasionally a scuba diver or a corpse-grey fish would swim by, but otherwise it was just us in this alien underwater world.

We also went zip-lining to connect us with other cenotes. That experience was ok, but highly overrated.

It was a wonderful experience and a new one for me.

By the time I returned to my hotel I was exhausted.

I went for a walk on the pedestrian street, which was extra busy as it was only a few hours to midnight. I settled in at a touristy but inviting bar that had swings instead of stools at the bar, and had a cigar and a virgin piña colada, chatting with various folks.

I was asleep by 11:30pm and flew home the following day. Playa del Carmen is not a place I would have chosen to go for a holiday, but I really enjoyed myself. And it was a great way to finish 2018 and start 2019.

And that is how I travelled to Playa del Carmen just before New Year’s Eve at the last minute, on someone else’s dime – to make someone a lawyer. I think all my years in law school finally paid off.

Read More about Playa del Carmen: making lawyers & memories
Posted on 2 January 19
0
Posted inAsia Indonesia Indonesia Trip 2017

The Descent: Goa Jamblang

Yesterday i hired a car to take me from my hotel in Yogyakarta to Goa Jamblang, a cave about a two hour drive from the city. The cave wasn’t listed in my guide book (that’s a failure of Lonely Planet, in my opinion, but once it is listed it is sure to get a lot busier) but i had seen pictures of a magical cave on the internet and that was good enough for me.

The ticket was 450,000 rupiah, which was more than reasonable, and but they only allow 25-35 people in per day, so it is important to get there early. I was #5.

We were walked over to the entrance to the cave: a large hole in the ground created by a sink hole, with perfectly vertical sides descending about 60 meters (200 feet ish) to a verdant bottom.

Our way down? Being lowered on ropes held by a group of slight men in flip flops.

Not exactly comfort inducing, but i figured it was safe, or at least no more dangerous than some of my previous travel exploits. They outfitted each of us in helmets and well worn harnesses.

I was a bit nervous but happy that i wasn’t going first. “Number 5!” They called out. “Huh, i guess we aren’t going numerically”‘ i thought. I made my way to the edge of the cliff and they clipped my harness to a single, knotted rope. Stepping off the edge took a moment of courage but once i was free and not plummeting to the ground, it was wonderful and exhilarating. I was slowly lowered to the ground taking in the greenery and the height.

Once everyone was at the bottom we made our way into the cave, which was dark and slippery but only a short walk to a grand opening filled with light from a natural opening above.

The sun, filtered through the leaves high above, made for a cascade of beams of light that was either heavenly, magical, or simply amazing, depending on your world view.

Far below us still was another drop off and water flowing. Water dripped from above making for other worldly rock formations.

It was all just incredible. I felt like an adventurer, an explorer, and, at times, a character at the beginning of a horror movie.

We spent about an hour or two down there and then we were lifted back to the surface. This next photo is me being lifted and looking down from part way up. The red things below are the helmets of the others.

We all shared a lunch (included in the price), united in our conquering of the cave. And that was that. Done by 1pm, satisfied and exhausted and muddy, i went back to the hotel and spent the rest of the day just hanging out at various cafés and enjoying a cigar with my curry.

I highly recommend this experience and suspect it may be the best thing about this trip.

Read More about The Descent: Goa Jamblang
Posted on 11 November 17
0
Posted inAsia Europe Turkey

Volare

Why Volare? Because everyone on my balloon thıs mornıng was Italıan.

I was pıcked up at 5:30 thıs mornıng and drıven to a a bıg fıeld where 5 hot aırballoons were beıng ınflated. It was really somethıng to see – ı had no ıdea they were so huge! Whıle the balloon were readıed, we all had tea and buscuıts. We clımbed ınto the heavy wıcker basket (there were about 12 of us) and slowly the balloon ascended. It was so gentle, you can scarcely notıce that you have left the ground.

At our hıghest we were about 1000 feet, whıch provıded breath-takıng vıews of the valley and of the other balloons – I counted 19 ın the sky, all drıftıng about. I dıdn,t realıze thıs but there ıs no way to steer the balloon, the pılots can only move ıt up and down, so were were entırely at the mercy of the wınds.

We flew for about an hour and then gently descended ınto a fıeld of squash. Once were were on terra fırma, were each had a glass of champagne and were presented wıth our flıght certfıcates (apparently these are balloonıng tradıtıons).


Now ı am back at the hotel, about to have tea and breakfast on the terrace.

Read More about Volare
Posted on 29 August 08
0
Posted inAsia Europe Turkey

Wandering Underground

Today was my last full day in Cappadocia. Today i visited Agikarahan, which is a 13th century caravansary (a place where the caravan would stop for the night on their way along the silk road between Istanbul and China). It had walls and sleeping quarters, stables for the camels and a tiny mosque in the centre, which is accessible by a narrow strip of jagged stone stairs on the outside of the mosque.This structure is still basically in the middle of nowhere and it is easy to imagine seeking refuge there.

After that, we went on a hike through Ihlara canyon, along a stream, between high cliffs. I saw some lizards and a rather shabby looking donkey. After an hour or so we stopped at a village and had a delicious lunch on a low platform on stilts over the water, where we sat on cushions and enjoyed the breeze. (The weather here really is lovely. It is very very hot, but as it is a desert, it is wonderfully cool in the mornings and evenings and there is not the oppressive humidity of the coast.)
We then went to Derinkuyu, one of 35 underground cities in the region. These cities – originally built for protection from invaders – were begun about 5,000 years ago. They are incredible! The one we visited had 8 levels and goes down 80 meters. There are air shafts so deep that one cannot see the bottom, there are kitchens and living quarters, wine-making rooms, churches and endless tunnels and staircases. Most of the passageways are very narrow and tiny, such that when walking through them, even the shortest people must stoop over. We could not see the whole thing of course, but spent about an hour exploring with flashlights. How these things were built is incomprehensible.

I then returned to my room (of which i have quickly become very fond, as it is so cozy) and had a sleep, after which i went for a walk. I had dinner at the same place i went to yesterday. It is a delightful little restaurant. I ate and then sat and smoked and chatted with the family that runs it. Two of the men sat with me and played Sufi music, one on the saz and the other baglama (sort of long-necked lutes). It was a perfect evening.

Now i shall go home and sleep, as i must get up very early. I am being picked up at 5:30am for my hot air balloon ride. After that i shall eat breakfast on the terrace of my hotel and then head to the airport, as i return to Istanbul tomorrow – from a town of 2,000 to a city of at least 12,000,000.
Good night.

Read More about Wandering Underground
Posted on 28 August 08
0
Posted inAsia Europe Turkey

The Caves and The Turtle

This morning i woke up just after 5am to the loudest call to prayer ever. I couldn’t fall back asleep. Just as the sun came up i looked out my window and saw nine hot air balloons floating above the valley! It was quite lovely. I will be on one of those balloons on Friday morning.

Today i was on a tour of the rock valley. It is a little group of people – about six. I usually don’t do tours, but as with Ephesus, it would be difficult for me to see all of the things any other way. Here, all of these locations are spread out in the countryside, so a tour was the best option.
We visited a number of valleys where the paths were lined by the sorts of towering rock formations that i described in yesterday’s entry. We also visited the actual cave houses, cave churches, and cave monasteries. They are amazing! They were built/carved beginning in the 10th Century and were inhabited until 1952, when the Turkish government moved them into houses after earthquakes destabilized many of the rocks. The dwellings they built are mind boggling – there are houses with every sort of room conceivable, churches with columns and frescoes, elaborate staircases and winding tunnels that go deep inside the mountains. Some of the dwellings are part way up the side of cliffs; now there are stairs constructed, but back “in the day” the residents would have scaled the wall using handholds. It is truly unlike anything i have ever seen. We had lunch and visited more of the same – rocks and rock dwellings.

I had two animal encounters today. At one point i got too close to a camel and when i turned my back on it, it tried to bite me. The other occurred when we were driving and there was a large-ish turtle crossing the busy street. I expressed concern for the turtle – not wanting to see it get squashed. Our driver stopped the van, ran into the street, picked up the turtle, brought it back to the vehicle and handed it to me. I held this turtle for about 20 minutes until we reached a good place to deposit it. The creature was quite adorable, but he did (understandably) get frustrated with being held for so long and began kicking his little legs. It was at this point that he urinated on me. I was able to clean up right away, but as i have only one pair of trousers for this trip (and they, like the rest of my clothes are beginning to smell), i was not delighted at having this occur. My displeasure was outweighed by knowing that we saved the turtle from a certain fate in the road. The last i saw of him, he was moving slowly but with great determination into a patch of yellow squash.

My favorite quote from today came when i was listening to a carpet seller explain how the colors in the carpets are made. He explained that they use only natural dyes, using onion skins for yellow, lice blood for red and tobacco for the browns. He said, “You can see that tobacco is not only good for the lungs, but it also make good color.”
On that note, i think i shall go smoke.
d

Read More about The Caves and The Turtle
Posted on 27 August 08
0

About Wandering North

Welcome to Wandering North, where I have been blogging about my travels since 2007.

Dale Raven North

Recent posts

  • Where to Smoke Cigars in Detroit 7 April 25
  • Toronto Layover: A Mediocre Experience 7 April 25
  • Detroit: A Surprising Weekend in Motor City 7 April 25
  • 24 hours in Belize City 23 March 25
  • Island Life in San Pedro, Belize 22 March 25

Search

Archives

Categories

Theme by Bloompixel. Proudly Powered by WordPress