The day before yesterday, after a slow breakfast and morning cigar on my hotel’s balcony (which i only discovered after 2 days), i went to the Kraton – the sultan’s former palace. I had walked there the other day so i knew it was only about a 30 minute walk from my hotel but i really wanted to try out the local transport: the ojek. Basically it is a rickshaw but powered by a motorbike instead of a bicycle. Unlike a tuk tuk in that you sit at the front, out in the open. It is a great way to see the city and the breeze is marvelous but you are sitting at the front of a motorized vehicle. No helmet. No seat belt. It’s like riding around on the front bumper of a car, except you ARE the bumper. It was great.
The Kraton was nice. It was pleasant to stroll around the grounds and see some of the buildings, but the museum displays of the sultan’s suits and epaulets weren’t very interesting. The best parts though were the men in traditional dress displaying Indonesian puppets and a concert of serene percussion-based music.
From the Kraton i took a bicycle rickshaw to the Water Palace, which was small but pretty and i got to see batik and puppets being made.
From the Kraton i took a bicycle rickshaw to the Water Palace, which was small but pretty and i got to see batik and puppets being made.
From there i wandering around a lovely neighbourhood of narrow streets, small houses, and flowering vines. One thing that is odd about most of the narrow streets is that they are frequently hung with bird cages with a small song bird or two in each. It makes for a lot of lovely birdsong, but seems like a sad life for the birds. 
I visited an underground mosque and then, tired and sweaty, found myself at a pleasant cafe where i decided it was time to try the kopi luwak: the famous civet excrement coffee.
The coffee here is excellent – luwak aside – but i couldn’t pass up an opportunity to try the world’s most expensive coffee. They prepared me two cups, one with an Italian stovetop maker and one with a Vietnamese maker. Both cups were excellent, but was it really $12 Cdn good? I’m glad i tried it and it was good but at that price once is probably enough.
I did have a relaxing time chatting with the proprietor and watching his pet civet, which spent its time napping and being extraordinarily fat.
Next i decided to go looking for the bird market. I thought i had a handle on it and people kept telling me i was heading in the right direction, but hours passed and i couldn’t find it. I however see a lot of hardware and automotive repair shops. At one point, to escape the heat, i took refuge in a supermarket, enjoying the AC and their selection of sugary cereals. After walking a bit more i broke down and took an ojek back to my hotel.
I didn’t do too much after that…walking, smoking, reading…i think i was asleep by 8:00.
(More super cool street art seen on my walks…)
I arrived in Jakarta from Taipei. A 5ish hour flight. Hit with heat and humidity. Glorious. Caught a taxi to Kota aka Old Batavia aka the old city. It seemed like the most interesting area, with now shabby colonial architecture, canals, and a big square. The city is large and populous; 10+ million people. I am only here for a day and a half and i didn’t have any particular sites or activities in mind. Much of what i read about Jakarta said “skip it”, but how could i? I’m glad i didn’t.
The street led to the square which was positively teeming with people. Sitting on the ground, eating and drinking, walking, and riding neon colored bicycles while wearing fancy hats that matched the bicycles. I thought there must be a festival, but have since found out it was just the weekend. It was great. I walked and had dinner on the square (vegetarian food is available but not in abundance). And i smoked a cigar on a patio.
It is more expensive than the slower means of reaching the city, but when time is short, why would you not ride the world’s fastest train? Finding my way and getting tickets was a breeze and before i knew it my train ride was over.
